Is Ford still doing this repair after warranty, and because of my mods, would they even do it anyway, even if I paid ahah. That was my next question, what could I do to get to 300 because everything is A ok mechanically on my car. But obviously I should have more power with my mods, so it seems compared to some of you guys with 300 with just cai and cat back which is dam amazing almost too amazing. thanks for the input guys, what do you all run at the track and whats a good set of street drag radials, like size and all too?
DYNO RESULTS FOR 99 COBRA
- Thread starter chuckystang
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TXSnakeCharmer
Founding Member
chuckystang;
Look mate, again if you do a search and spend some time reading you can learn an aweful lot about the intakes both pre-fix and post fix. You can start by looking through my website as there must be something on there that is worth a crap about anything you can think of. There is a huge difference between the pre-fix and post-fix intakes. I wont go into why and what, etc as I am too tired and have others things to do tonight so again I'll direct you to the search button or my website. As for your intake being a pre-fix, either the original owner of your car was a huge dead beat and didnt care much about the car originally purchased to not get the "fix" done, or it was done and a pre-fix was put back on the car. I opt for the second reason. Why would someone do that you ask? Because over the years allot of people have spent good money on removing the intakes and having them ported, extrude honed, etc and they dont want to sell the car and loose the money invested, so they go out to eBay and buy a pre-fix intake which are a dime a dozen and slap it on there to sell it thinking the next poor soul will be happy with it. Either way, if it really is a pre-fix intake you are being robbed. The fact you havent called a free 1-800 number to verify if it was or wasnt fixed indicates you yourself dont really care either. It takes 5 minutes and it's free. as stated ear;ier, good luck. back to my beer
Look mate, again if you do a search and spend some time reading you can learn an aweful lot about the intakes both pre-fix and post fix. You can start by looking through my website as there must be something on there that is worth a crap about anything you can think of. There is a huge difference between the pre-fix and post-fix intakes. I wont go into why and what, etc as I am too tired and have others things to do tonight so again I'll direct you to the search button or my website. As for your intake being a pre-fix, either the original owner of your car was a huge dead beat and didnt care much about the car originally purchased to not get the "fix" done, or it was done and a pre-fix was put back on the car. I opt for the second reason. Why would someone do that you ask? Because over the years allot of people have spent good money on removing the intakes and having them ported, extrude honed, etc and they dont want to sell the car and loose the money invested, so they go out to eBay and buy a pre-fix intake which are a dime a dozen and slap it on there to sell it thinking the next poor soul will be happy with it. Either way, if it really is a pre-fix intake you are being robbed. The fact you havent called a free 1-800 number to verify if it was or wasnt fixed indicates you yourself dont really care either. It takes 5 minutes and it's free. as stated ear;ier, good luck. back to my beer
Thanks alot for the info to you all. Oh and I certainly do care! haha, but I am real busy with school too. Also I thought there was no point in calling because I was told that they are no longer fixing the intakes for free. As far as previous owner goes, there were 2, the most recent other than me only told me it was not done, but when I bought the car it did not mean anything to me as I did not know what I do now and not to mention the fact that I could not tell...(it smooked all the SS's I test drove). But either way, I will definitely call them when I can and find out the deal. I only started this thread to see how my results compared to everyone else and well I get the point now haha thanks all for rubbing it in. 
I do not need to research any more about the pre fix post fix, I have used way too much of my time as it is learning about my car...you can't even imagine. I just cant feel the loss in power so that is probably why I have not called, and some dope told me its good for only 5 to 10 hp. Extrude honed if you were lucky and acid dipped for the most part was the fix I heard of. As this thread evolved I was looking more for comments on how to get more power and not just someone spouting off "I have 310 rwhp with just a cai and cat back" that really does not help anyone. I am really going on way too much with this but I feel like some of you are tired of this thread, but I think its great to see soo much feedback, and I certainly don't want anyone wasting their time. GO SOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!OK you can go back to your beeaaa ahaha
so Im sorry if I ever came off as being pesimistic or stuburn...Im just overly realistic
Silver95Stint
New Member
I can vouch for Naz's car running high 12's and I'm in England. I was at the track in Georgia when he did it. He had a website for you to check out, but I think it hasn't been updated in a while. So there are some guys out there, just have to find their secret I guess. GOOD LUCK.
Well I called svt today and apparently my car did have the fix performed way back in 99. So I have no idea why I am only at 280 with my mods. Let me add though that I have flowmaster mufflers which I know do not flow as good as others, and my cai intake is just the chrome elbow part of the bbk system with the stock rubber and plastic peice that goes to the throttle body. My question is...is this 90 degree turn my fenderwell airfilter takes through the metal cai to the maf hurting my performance, along with the mufflers>? would those two things keep me 20 hp shy? that doesn't seem right, my mods again are steeda underdrive pullies, chip, bbk cai, bassani highflow xpipe, flowmasters out back(my car pulls all the way to 6300 before leveling off on the dyno as well, the hp and tourque curves look completely normal for these engines, I just cant figure out why Im shy of 300.
A posting of the dynograph would help chuck. Maybe you have a pinger. Also, spell out the specific manufacturers of your parts that have been added. Maybe you need a CUSTOM dyno tune with an aftermarket chip by a reputable dynotuner. What brand cai do you have and what size k&n? Who made your chip? We can't help without more information.
Ill try and get my graph scanned but nope its not a pinger and I dont think A/F was done , at least it is not on the graph. I had a custom chip installed and dyno tuned by the best in the area (dezracing) , my cai is bbk and is the chrome elbow piece with some sort of manageled looking k&n sitting in the fender, the pullies are steeda, the high flow x pipe is bassani and the cat back is 2chamber flowmaster. and well I have a FRPP aluminum driveshaft that is a lil long but fits, I have FRPP 410's, KB differential bushings, centerforce df clutch, firewall adjuster...bla bla bla, i dont know if any of that helps. thanks , but Im happy to know that at least my car had the fix, assuming it has the fixed intake on it now haha
YOUR RIGHT ON THE MONEY
I had my car done a month ago and I pulled 288, I have some mods done as you see in my signature block so you are about the same as most guys. We all have to keep in mind that where you get in dynoed at is also a factor, I would say there is no such thing as a perfect dyno. You have to take in wind factor, weather that day, if your in a heated shop, and etc. I know that if you dynoed at a shop with the garage door open and it was windy and cold your cold air intake would have to be considered. Just my opion. You talked about the car pulling at 80 plus MPH that is because you need to put a aluminum drive draft on. That was what they told me had to be done after getting bigger gears. Keep going your on the right track.
I had my car done a month ago and I pulled 288, I have some mods done as you see in my signature block so you are about the same as most guys. We all have to keep in mind that where you get in dynoed at is also a factor, I would say there is no such thing as a perfect dyno. You have to take in wind factor, weather that day, if your in a heated shop, and etc. I know that if you dynoed at a shop with the garage door open and it was windy and cold your cold air intake would have to be considered. Just my opion. You talked about the car pulling at 80 plus MPH that is because you need to put a aluminum drive draft on. That was what they told me had to be done after getting bigger gears. Keep going your on the right track.
AzDropTop
Founding Member
chuckystang said:
So your mods are
Cold air
x pipe with cats
mufflers
pullies and a
Custom chip
You need a full cat-back and a 'full' cold air intake and you need to find out your A/F number. You put down 281 which really isn't too bad with your mods considering your car may have only dynoed in the high 260's stock, giving you 10 to 15 hp. There are 99/01's with a JLT cai and exhaust in the high 280's, low 290's out there so like you said, these cars are different. I dynoed 273.5 and 281.2 with just my silencer removed and steeda ultra light wheels. I'm guessing with my JLT and when I get a Magnaflow catback I'll be seeing 285 to 290. Pullies and T/A would put me close to 300 I'm guessing. Anyway, as already mentioned there are a lot of guys hitting 300 with bolt ons. If you have a custom chip is a T/A needed? Or even useful?
Just for info I am about 99% sure ford will not fix the unfixed at this point.
Follow the link and click on dyno numbers. You'll find a 99 with bolt on's at 325 hp!
Go here
Check out my numbers in my Signature. This was taken on 2 seperate dynojet dynos with only 1-2 HP & TQ difference between the two. I just posted the highest number 332RWHP & 330RWT . The other dyno was 329rwhp & 328rwt SAE. I highly doubt that both of these dynos in totally different shops and Location were malfunctioning. If you guys want I will post them. For the Stanger who started this thread go to stangparts.com or karkraft.com pick up a used 01 intake and port it.
how much of a gain did you get with those headers and are they stock replacements or did you get long tubes? also do you know the website for you cai? my intake I found out was fixed by Ford back in 99 so the reason I am below 300 hp is probably because all I really have for good performance mods is the pullies and x pipe. The flows are bout same as stock and the fenderwell cold air is well for some reason not up to par. thanks
I had my '99 coupe dyno'ed at 286 hp and 278 lb.ft. with bolt-ons. I had it chipped at Apex in Santa Clara CA and Bill the owner told me that he's never seen one top 300 hp. There are a couple things to note here.
First, different Dyno's produce vastly different results, for instance a Mustang-brand dyno is said to put out numbers that are significantly higher and could add an additional 30 hp. on these cars.
Second, let's all make sure we're using SAE adjusted numbers, mine did 294 un-adjusted.
Third, everything I've ever read, including real world tests that Car Craft magazine did a while back indicates that power-train loss is a minimum of 18% on VERY high efficiency racing power-trains. No real world car came close to that low of a loss, most were 20-25%. So I use 18% as my estimate out of conservatism, it should probably be higher. The higher the loss number you use, the higher your crank hp number will come out, so we all get a little extra credit here.
Cheers
First, different Dyno's produce vastly different results, for instance a Mustang-brand dyno is said to put out numbers that are significantly higher and could add an additional 30 hp. on these cars.
Second, let's all make sure we're using SAE adjusted numbers, mine did 294 un-adjusted.
Third, everything I've ever read, including real world tests that Car Craft magazine did a while back indicates that power-train loss is a minimum of 18% on VERY high efficiency racing power-trains. No real world car came close to that low of a loss, most were 20-25%. So I use 18% as my estimate out of conservatism, it should probably be higher. The higher the loss number you use, the higher your crank hp number will come out, so we all get a little extra credit here.
Cheers
This topic is getting old...but one thing.
We are talking about 99 + 01 Cobra's here right....this isn't new. Why all of a sudden is 300RWHP with bolt ons a major acheivement?? I don't get it. I put down 320RWHP SAE corrected over a year ago along with like 50 other people that post on various forums.
Any "tuner" or "dyno-shop" that says they never saw a Cobra put down over 300 at the wheels with bolt ons is either use to imports, or is thinking a GT is the same as a Cobra....so they lose any and all credibility right there.
Lastly, what is the point of talking about drive train loss? "To the wheels" means to the wheels...you don't have to calculate any loss. Crank HP means nothing to most people here.
This alone got me over 300RWHP when n/a:
LT, o/r H, Flowmasters
Steeda pulleys
Densecharger CAI w/ K&N
Chip, custome tune...only added 1 degree of timing over stock and a/f around 13.1 if I remember right.
Then I replaced the Densecharger with the WMS CAI kit and 95mm MAF and ported the intake....that got power up to 320RWHP SAE on a dyno-jet.
Mustang dyno's will give LOWER numbers than a dyno-jet. Reason, they put resistance on the rear tires (load) and give you more of a real world number.
We are talking about 99 + 01 Cobra's here right....this isn't new. Why all of a sudden is 300RWHP with bolt ons a major acheivement?? I don't get it. I put down 320RWHP SAE corrected over a year ago along with like 50 other people that post on various forums.
Any "tuner" or "dyno-shop" that says they never saw a Cobra put down over 300 at the wheels with bolt ons is either use to imports, or is thinking a GT is the same as a Cobra....so they lose any and all credibility right there.
Lastly, what is the point of talking about drive train loss? "To the wheels" means to the wheels...you don't have to calculate any loss. Crank HP means nothing to most people here.
This alone got me over 300RWHP when n/a:
LT, o/r H, Flowmasters
Steeda pulleys
Densecharger CAI w/ K&N
Chip, custome tune...only added 1 degree of timing over stock and a/f around 13.1 if I remember right.
Then I replaced the Densecharger with the WMS CAI kit and 95mm MAF and ported the intake....that got power up to 320RWHP SAE on a dyno-jet.
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