when considering nitrous... consider what?

[sparky99]

I'm just doing a little research on the basic needs of preparation for nitrous.

I drive a 99 gt and wanted to get the best kit for a good price.

What all is needed to be ready for this without putting my engine at danger and also what am I looking at spending for these items

 

[Darkhorse845]

I would get a Nitrous Express 100 shot with all the saftey goodies
Make sure you get a window switch! From my experience when I had my
NX kit I had nothing but,great results with it! NX all the way no question.

 

[mustang70]

The biggest thing to worry about, IMO, is the fuel system and the tune. You don't want to chance going lean at all. I think people have the most problems when they try to get that last horsepower no matter what the cost. And doing it be going lean with Nitrous is what kills motor. Do they make a timing retard for our cars? If so, you will want one of those as well.

 

[Darkhorse845]

Yes avoid any lean condition because it can cost you a engine.When I had my kit I used my Steeda timming adjuster and set it at 8* with my NX 100
shot and never had a issue! I also used one step cooler plugs and ran premium
when I used the spray.If you are a knowledgable about Nitrous you shouldn't
have a problem but,the user is what makes it safe.Research and learn the
correct way to run nitrous and you shouldn't have a problem.If you have any
questions feel free to ask that's what we are here for to help.Good Luck!

 

[Rocketman]

The biggest thing to worry about, IMO, is the fuel system and the tune. You don't want to chance going lean at all. I think people have the most problems when they try to get that last horsepower no matter what the cost. And doing it be going lean with Nitrous is what kills motor. Do they make a timing retard for our cars? If so, you will want one of those as well.

The ability to tune your car, IMO, is the most important thing you can do to prepare for running with a NOS set up.

 

[Darkhorse845]

It's all in the tune.

 

[lopey4.6]

This is what I woul do if I had to do it over again. I would purchase the NOS direct port kit. Grab a couple different jet sizes for N2O and fuel, install a timing adjuster, a fuel pressure gauge, a N2O pressure gauge, install a aviator pump, 2 step colder plugs, a bottle heater, and fill up with 93 octane. Then go to the dyno and make a few runs with a wideband O2 and change jets accordingly until you get the power increase you want and a safe A/F. You'll make safe big power.

 

[sparky99]

SuperChips Custom Tune

I've already got a superchips custom dyno-tuned chip in the car and would plan on having a complete reflash of that chip as soon as I put the nitrous in.

When it comes to the saftey goodies (besides the tune) what else is there to consider what are the general purposes of these products - any prices would be great too.

 

[YtnGT]

I am by no means an expert on nitrous but I can share what I have learned. (I am only talking about wet kits on 99-04 4.6L)

As others have stated
N2O + Lean a/f = bad
N20 + too much timing = bad
N2O + Fuel + low RPM = unhappy intake
Those basic rules seem verry simple but there are many ways they can occur. Hitting the rev limiter causes the computer to pull fuel from certain cylinders AKA lean condition. An electrical failure in the fuel solenoid (coil goin open) could lead to an excessivly lean condition. Fuel pump failure = lean. Fuel pressure could momentarily drop when the fuel solenoid engages. Remember returnless fuel systems use the computer as the fuel pressure regulator and it takes time for the computer to detect that fuel pressure has dropped and add duty cycle to the (variable voltage) fuel pumps.

Remember that DRY and WET systems are totally different.
Others have stated that the tune is verry important. What they should be saying is: the air fuel ratio is verry important. Now I agree if the a/f ratio is off you will need a tune to correct a/f. Wet systems inject fuel and N2O together in a nozzle. So in theory your would use the stock tune and the extra fuel is injected by the nitrous system. Dry systems rely on the fuel injectors and computer to provide the extra fuel to keep a/f safe. There is no such thing as a safe nitrous system dry or wet. Equipment malfunctions, it might not happen very often but it is a fact of life. The only thing you can do is be prepared with the appropriate safety equipment.

I have purchased a wideband O2 sensor so a/f can be monitored especially during N2O use. I also have a predator that will allow me to make changes to the tune as needed. Here is a list of what I bought:
NX wet EFI kit
Purge
Bottle heater, transducer, & gauge
Fuel pressure shutoff switch (hobbs switch)
MSD digital window switch
Dynojet wideband commander O2 sensor/gauge
Autometer Dual Gauge Pod
AWSFA-12C plugs
180 deg thermostat
Diablosport Predator

Thats a lot of money but a new engine is more... Thats my philosophy

Now remember N2O + not enough fuel = $$$$

 

[LS2 KLR]

No matter what, get a custome tune! On my stock block and stock fuel system I made 378/422 at the wheels on an Edelbrock dry system. Before the tune and long tubes I made around 300 I thought the car ran great but found out it was way out of wack.

 

[YtnGT]

I must slightly disagree with LS2 KLR. You need to know what your a/f ratio is when N2O is being injected. If your a/f is 10-12 you are rich enough and do not need a custom tune. As always 12.5 a/f will produce more power than 11.5 a/f, but 15+ a/f will surely melt something (usually spark plugs first).

As I stated before wet and dry kits are totally different in the method they use for additional fuel delivery. Before using a N2O I would recomend going to a shop that has a wideband a/f meter so they can monitor your a/f during your first N2O run. Then if the N2O system is not working properly, causing the a/f ratio to be off, they can provide you with a custom tune. I decided to use my money to buy my own wideband O2 meter instead of paying a shop to do it. There are several inexpensive wideband O2 meters out there: Innovative LM-1 $350, Dynojet Wideband Commander $500. I can not beleive that more people are not using these wideband O2 systems. Because everyone should know that power adder + lean = walletectomy

 

[lopey4.6]

I agree with YtnGT. Using a chip is your best bet to straighten out a A/F, especially if it's jumping around a little. If it's nive and flat but just lean or rich, then you can change jets.

I also agree that your own wide band is the way to go. I know for a fact that some dynos A/F reads different. For example if you were to take your car to a few different places you'll get a few different (and some being radically different) A/F readings. Mine was a full point off from dyno to dyno. It's probably because the A/F meter gets pretty beat up at some places. It's best to get your own, tune it, then go to a dyno to verify results.

 

[YtnGT]

When it comes to a/f some shops do not know what they are doing. A local shop wanted to just stick the O2 sensor in the tail pipe. That would have been ok if I didn't have cats. A quick way to check the calibration of a shops a/f meter is to look at idle a/f (once the car has warmed up & gone into closed loop). The a/f should bounce around 14.7, a few tenths above and below is pretty normal. If it does not either their O2 meter is not calibrated correctly or there is something wrong with your cars open loop control. That simple test does not guarantee that the shops O2 sensor will be linear throught the entire range, it just tells you that it can read stoichometric (14.7) accuratly.

Reality Check:
-Nitrous system $600
-Bottle heater, purge, ect... $300
-New motor if you go to lean $3000+
-Wideband O2, so you know for sure PRICELESS ($350-$550)