Need to start car w/o using key

[yeska68]

anyone know how to start car w?o using the key. I lost keys to my ignition and need to drive car.

any info would be appriciated

 

[krash kendall]

Pop out the door lock and take it to a locksmith. It'll save you the cost of a service call (if they are the same key). It would also help if you told us what you are driving.

 

[WORTH]

anyone know how to start car w?o using the key. I lost keys to my ignition and need to drive car.

any info would be appriciated

if it's a pre 70 mustang, run a jumper from the battery to the "+" coil terminal, and jump from the battery hot lead to the start terminal on the solinoid to crank it over, make sure it's in nuetral.

 

[RGS0907]

if it's a pre 70 mustang, run a jumper from the battery to the "+" coil terminal, and jump from the battery hot lead to the start terminal on the solinoid to crank it over, make sure it's in nuetral.

I can't tell you how many times I ran my car that way

 

[Rumble]

This is why it takes four seconds to hotwire a vintage Mustang.

 

[D.Hearne]

Just remove the ignition switch from the dash, take it to a locksmith, and they'll make you a new set of keys. The door/trunk key is different from the ignition key.

 

[yeska68]

1968 coupe 289 all stock

Sorry about not including whatype of car im working with its a 1968 coupe 289 all stock.

So removing the ignition switch from the dash will be enough for the lock smith to copy the key. sweet!!!

Excuse for my lack of experience but.....

I am confused about running a jumper from the battery to the "+" coil terminal, and jump from the battery hot lead to the start terminal on the solinoid to crank it over, make sure it's in nuetral.

Does jumper mean jumper cable?
i know where the solinoid is located but...
How do i jump from the battery hot lead to the start terminal on the solinoid to crank it over
what is considered "the battery hot lead "
where is the start terminal located on the solinoid
...and what makes the car kick over and start

Any info is apperciated

 

[D.Hearne]

You run a 16 ga. wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil. This can be done to run the motor for a few minutes, not to drive it. You'll burn the points after a while. Best done with a toggle switch in line. As for the solenoid, if you'll use a screw driver from the battery side of the solenoid to the next small terminal, the starter will engage., again this is best done occasionally, not regularly, as you'll burn the threads on the bat. side. A wire harness can be rigged to perform these tasks and be run under the hood across the fender into the vent window ( if so equipped) into the car. I did this with a 63 Merc that I bought as a parts car to run the engine ( that part was freshly rebuilt) Tons of laughs drivin around the back yard without brakes

 

[yeska68]

now that i understand

will try this thanks for the info

 

[WORTH]

I thought the door key was the same on the 68? am I wrong? anyone got a 68 handy?

 

[Pakrat]

I thought the door key was the same on the 68? am I wrong? anyone got a 68 handy?

I know it's the same on a 69', the trunk key is the only lone one to my knowledge. I'd find it hard to believe that they only started to do that in 69', but who knows.

 

[bnickel]

door/ignition trunk/glovebox all through the 70's and i think most of the 80's as well

 

[krash kendall]

You need the key to remove the ignition. This is way you need to use the door lock. To remove the ignition you:

- Insert the key
- Turn to ACC.
- Push a wire or paper clip in the little hole
- Jiggle the key back past ACC. untill the core pulls out
- Then you can remove the bezzel which is attached bayonet style and the ignition falls out

P.S. I run a CNC machine shop manufacturing computerized key cutting machines for the locksmith industry.

 

[mustangdave]

Just in case you need more explanation: the pos. side of the solenoid is where the pos. battery cable connects. First connect a wire to the pos. side of the coil from the solenoid. Next, use jumper cables to connect from the pos. battery post to the pos. side of the solenoid and the engine will turn over and fire. Remove the jumper cables and your off and running. To stop it, you will have to disconnect the wire to the coil. I usually ground the neg. jumper on the one I'm using to a metal part of the car and keep the unused jumpers from touching. It's easiest to use alligator clips on the wire to the coil so you can just jerk it off when it comes time to stop the engine. If you need to do this for awhile, wire in a toggle switch.

 

[RGS0907]

I know it's the same on a 69', the trunk key is the only lone one to my knowledge. I'd find it hard to believe that they only started to do that in 69', but who knows.

It was door and ignition on one key and the trunk and glovebox on the other. I think that every Mustang between '65-70 were the same.

 

[ForceFed70]

You need the key to remove the ignition. This is way you need to use the door lock. To remove the ignition you:

- Insert the key
- Turn to ACC.
- Push a wire or paper clip in the little hole
- Jiggle the key back past ACC. untill the core pulls out
- Then you can remove the bezzel which is attached bayonet style and the ignition falls out

P.S. I run a CNC machine shop manufacturing computerized key cutting machines for the locksmith industry.

Thanks Krash.

Was just gonna say "How the heck is he supposed to remove the ignition lock without the key?"

 

[D.Hearne]

You don't need a key to remov ethe complete switch, just the tumblers. Any good locksmith can make a key for it without removing the tumblers. There's a guy here that can do it. Watched him make a key by hand and "feel" on my old 67 FB Stang. And Y'all are right, the door & ignition were the same key, it's been awhile since I had my 67. My 89 Ranger is the opposite, the door key is different from the igniton.

 

[CochinoFilipino]

You run a 16 ga. wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil. This can be done to run the motor for a few minutes, not to drive it. You'll burn the points after a while.

Really? I thought this was how everyone hotwired a car and drove it. How does it differ from the normal way of running the engine? Besides it going throught the ignitions switch, that is.

 

[67coupe351w]

Really? I thought this was how everyone hotwired a car and drove it. How does it differ from the normal way of running the engine? Besides it going throught the ignitions switch, that is.

ITs bad becasue you arent running the voltage through a Ballast resister, That resister knocks some of the voltage off but the jumper wire directly from the battery is providing the full 12 volts. I beelive the stock wiring harnesses has the ballest resister bulit into the wire comeing from the switch. If the ballast resister is external like it is on my aftermarket coil, you would want to run the jumper wire to the balast resister then you could run the engine like that as long as you wanted.

 

[D.Hearne]

ITs bad becasue you arent running the voltage through a Ballast resister, That resister knocks some of the voltage off but the jumper wire directly from the battery is providing the full 12 volts. I beelive the stock wiring harnesses has the ballest resister bulit into the wire comeing from the switch. If the ballast resister is external like it is on my aftermarket coil, you would want to run the jumper wire to the balast resister then you could run the engine like that as long as you wanted.

Couldn't have said it better. And just to add some, when a car thief hotwires a car, he's doing it from the inside of the car, not lifting the hood and wiring it direct, so the voltage is going thru the engine's wiring harness.