Hydraulic clutch

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I too am going to use the McLeod TO bearing... 'cept mine'll be in a Toploader. Not sure yet what MC to couple to it. I looked at various slave setups, while easier if the thing fails to fix, I was worried about header+linkage interference.
 
I am running a McCleod TO bearing on a Ford T-5 behind my Mopar 318. It is nice and tight. I only need about 1" of pedal travel to actuate the clutch. Make sure you read the directions. I didn't and paid for it. I had to put the bearing on the bellhousing before bolting the bell to the engine. It didn't fit through the hole with the tranny. Also, make sure your bleeder line is on top, air rises. I put mine in upside down and spend a day wondering why the dang thing wouldn't bleed. I ended up rotating it from the fork hole, PITA. Keep your hydro lines away from the pressure plate, if close could catch them and rip them off or tear them. I used a cable clutch in the 66 Stang and a hydro setup in the Cuda. Both on Ford T-5s. I like the feel of the Cuda better, but the Stang was way cheaper. If you have the cash I'm recommending the hydro setup.
 
Suggestion

I got the T-5 kit from JMC for use in my car, nice compact package. They also offer a complete pedal kit for classic Mustangs. Check it out!

One of the guys here made his own set-up, similar to the JMC kit. I think it was either Dolfan87 or JKelly... :shrug:
 
Sandsprite, I really like that kit from raer racing. Even having to get a master cylinder and fabbing up a linkage to it should still be way cheaper. But I especially like the mounting of the slave cylinder. Have you installed it on your car?
 
you didn't specify what you have, but...

the real question here is PUSH or PULL? I was so frustrated when my dad fronted me some cash for the JMC kit [about $400!!] and when I got under the car to attach it to the tranny, I thought, "gee, I guess this thing must pull the fork back..." NOPE. it was then I learned that late model bellhousings push the fork forward and early model is opposite. I didn't know anything about this when I had my T-5 swap done and I have the original bellhousing. just want to save you a headache!

Summit has a Wilwood slave cylinder [pull-type] for $55 and about the same for a master. the guy who sold me my T-5 uses this and he swears he's done with cables.

good luck and let us know what you decide to go with!

edit:: chepsk8!! I'm shocked at you for spending so much on a kit...I would think you of all people would "borrow" something from some other car and adapt it! :D
 
Folks take a look at this link!! http://home.comcast.net/~grabblue65/Hyd_Clutch.pdf

He has part numbers, prices and pictures. I just finished converting my T-5 using this setup. Total cost $169! I've driven more than 500 trouble free miles so far! (Fingers crossed for another 40,000!) The only change I made was I tapped into the master cylinder for my resevoir. VERY, VERY clean look!

Good luck!

Scott Wallace 65 K-code fastback
 
I too used the McCloed T/O bearing but on my 89 V8 Ranger with a Toploader 4 speed. After dealing with it for 3 years now, I can honestly suggest to you that if you're going with a T5, Tremec, or any other tranmission with an internal shifter mechanism, stay far away from the McCleod T/O bearing, use an external slave cylinder. They're much cheaper and far easier to deal with in leaks and adjustments. If I wasn't commited to the Toploader 4 speed ( anyone want to swap for a nice Tremec?) I'd switch to an external slave in a New York minute. McCloed's service SUCKS, :notnice: big time. I've tried to call and email them numerous times and only spoke to a live person once. Mine's leaking at the moment and I dread having to get some help with it. :bang:
 
gp001 said:
You have your clutch and brakes feeding from the same fluid resevoir?
Yes indeed! Ford has used this set-up for years on thier Ford Ranger trucks and escorts. The secret is to tap into the large resevior for the clutch slightly higher than the brakes. If you loose the clutch you still have brakes. If you loose the brakes you still have the other set. . . .plus it keeps you from trying to drive around with only half a set of brakes!
 
gjz30075 said:
Sandsprite, I really like that kit from raer racing. Even having to get a master cylinder and fabbing up a linkage to it should still be way cheaper. But I especially like the mounting of the slave cylinder. Have you installed it on your car?

I thought about it, and I still may do it. At this point I still have the old z-bar setup, so I would need to get the late model fork and pivot first. If I have the tranny out, I'd probably make my own bracket. Still a decent deal from the looks of it though.
 
SandSprite said:
I thought about it, and I still may do it. At this point I still have the old z-bar setup, so I would need to get the late model fork and pivot first. If I have the tranny out, I'd probably make my own bracket. Still a decent deal from the looks of it though.
or just get the Wilwood pull-type slave from Summit...

these are great, guys! $400 for a kit is such a ripoff!

revised EDIT:: what about using braided steel lines rather than the hard tubes? if I remember correctly, that's what the JMC kit used. I was thinking the hard tubes might get tweaked a bit under load, but I suppose it wouldn't be too bad. :shrug:
 
I'd rather switch to all late model stuff (fork and pivot) anyways. It looks like the $225 kit come with a braided line. They aren't that expensive for a short section like that, at least I don't think they are.
 
Coooooool................

Burnout289,

Don't be shocked! No, I did not buy everything! You know me better! I did get the bottom kit, as it is complete, and the T-5 Bracket is already made.

I am working on my own stuff for the pedal! Creative home-built fun as usual! Developing a hydraylic clutch kit for the Fox Mustang Pedals in my FFR Cobra Replica! Bolt-in! :D

Just saw Reyna site...AWSOME!!! I gotta call them! :nice:
 
D.Hearne said:
I too used the McCloed T/O bearing but on my 89 V8 Ranger with a Toploader 4 speed. After dealing with it for 3 years now, I can honestly suggest to you that if you're going with a T5, Tremec, or any other tranmission with an internal shifter mechanism, stay far away from the McCleod T/O bearing, use an external slave cylinder. They're much cheaper and far easier to deal with in leaks and adjustments. If I wasn't commited to the Toploader 4 speed ( anyone want to swap for a nice Tremec?) I'd switch to an external slave in a New York minute. McCloed's service SUCKS, :notnice: big time. I've tried to call and email them numerous times and only spoke to a live person once. Mine's leaking at the moment and I dread having to get some help with it. :bang:

OK, a couple tips I've learned from trying to contact McLeod:
1. Their "Contact Form" doesn't work. They never get the e-mail. They don't know/carew whats wrong with the website
2. They have strange Tech support hours. I have the goofy hours at home on my 2004 catalog and will PM them to you this evening when I get home. I will also send you the local (non 800) number in case you want to try that number.

I actually got so fed up I just went down there (fairly local to me).
 
A thought just popped in my head, I was talkin' brakes to a guy... Does anyone that has a hydraulic setup have power brakes? I never even considered the clutch MC clearing the power booster in my Cougar. :rolleyes:. If I have to go with a Z-bar setup I will, but that'll nickel and dime me to death I fear, hydraulic just seems to have way fewer parts to buy.