Air Pump

Is there any way to bypass the air pump in a '99? I just had my inspection yesterday and they said that it fails simply because the check engine light is on. They want $80 just to run a test to find out why the light is on and any work is on top of that.

I already know why the light's on...a mechanic told me the air pump was damaged in my accident a few months ago. He also told me that the air pump is not an essential part and that it's fine to drive without it. So, I'd rather not spend the $80 + $200 to replace the air pump if I don't have to.

Do any of you guys know a way to bypass the air pump so the light doesn't come on anymore? Thanks!
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I'm having a hell of a time finding either the air pump, or the relay anywhere on the 'net. You might want to check that the relay is still working. Basically, my understanding is that the air pump pumps fresh air onto the exhaust.

In order to pypass the pump, you would have to get a delete pulley for it, don't know where, but they're out there. Also, in order to get rid of the code, you might have to play with the relay and try to wire it differently so the the computer gets what ever it is its looking for.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
 
94GTStang said:
I didn't think the 3.8 had an air pump. I know my 5.0 did, but I ripped that off while back ago.

Yeah, that's what Pep Boys said, too. But the Ford dealer says it does have one. How did you rip yours out? Was it easy? I'd love to get rid of the thing (it's damaged anyway) so that stupid engine light goes off. Any suggestions?
 
ryaninc99 said:
Yeah, that's what Pep Boys said, too. But the Ford dealer says it does have one. How did you rip yours out? Was it easy? I'd love to get rid of the thing (it's damaged anyway) so that stupid engine light goes off. Any suggestions?
Well, ASP and a few other companies make delete pullies for the pump. It's just two bolts that bolt it on. Then there are thermactor tubes that connect at the back of the cylinder heads and in the 'h' of the exhaust pipe. Those all have to be capped and or deleted. This was on my 94GT though...
Last time I looked under a V6, I saw no pipe stemming from the exhaust nor any from the cylinder heads. So I think Ford is just in the dark. If someone can prove me otherwise, be my guest!
 
In my Haines manual on page 6-20 they discuss both a mechanical (belt driven), and an electrical pump. The electrical pump was used after the switch to the 4.6 V8, and is located near the passenger fenderwell. (inside or outside I can't tell) As for how to delete this, I'm lost.
 
laserstang38 said:
In my Haines manual on page 6-20 they discuss both a mechanical (belt driven), and an electrical pump. The electrical pump was used after the switch to the 4.6 V8, and is located near the passenger fenderwell. (inside or outside I can't tell) As for how to delete this, I'm lost.

Does it say anything about the V6? I'm going to check it out when I get home today and see if I can see anything to disconnect. Maybe just disconnecting the power and then resetting the computer.....?
 
There is an Air pump on the V6, I know at least there is an Electric one. That is, at least on the 99+. My 99 has the Check Engine light on and my mechanic I took it too said that I had a bad air pump. I believe it's inside the fenderwell. I would really like to rip mine off also seeing how my C.E. light has been on since last December. IF anyone can find it, please post.
 
ChrisYellowV6 said:
Well pepboys probably wouldnt know that your car had an engine in it if they didnt see it...they'd just say it goes by "magic".....
I work at Pep Boy's :mad:

But I do understand where you are coming from. I called the local ford dealership here and asked for a banjo bolt. The parts guy hadn't the slightest idea of what it was. I told him it held the brake line onto the caliper. He reliped with "i'm looking at the screen and don't see it!". I then asked what held the line to the caliper and he didn't know. :bang: :bang:
 
Is it still belt driven on the 3.8L though? I really would like to fix this problem. My mechanic said that it's about a $200 part to replace, and it runs fine w/ it not working so why replace it. If i can just delte the damn thing, and then trick the computer into thinking it works (so my Check Engine light doesnt come on anymore).
 
It's an on going problem however. If I unhook the battery for 15 mins., they light comes back on within 1/2 hour of driving it. Also, I finally replaced the stock battery and still the light came on a few mins after driving. I need some way to turn off the pump and trick the computer into thinking it still works fine.