Hey guys... he was embarrassed to ask such a "dumb" question as he put it, but how do you confirm a bad alternator????
My buddy DAGGAR on this forum needs your help!
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no im dead serious....... if you pull the batt cable and the car dies, would that pin pouint the alternator???
Can you say "AutoZone" in English or maybe even in Spanish?
How about GreeK? After all, Greek is what most people think electrical theory & troubleshooting is written in.
Even if all you speak is Redneck, AutoZone will still check the charging system & battery for free.
How about GreeK? After all, Greek is what most people think electrical theory & troubleshooting is written in.
Even if all you speak is Redneck, AutoZone will still check the charging system & battery for free.
I'm almost 100% sure it's the alt. Driving down the road, I'm getting less than 11 volts. Car is bogging at full boost and 4500 RPM (no spark). Turning off the headlights doesn't bring the voltage up, and disconnecting the postive lead kills the motor 8 or 9 times out of 10. I think the regulator on the back of the alt went up in smoke.
Then they say you need a new battery and sell you one. I watched them test a battery and they hooked to the terminals, not the battery posts. They did a quick load test and didnt verify the state of charge or the connections for that matter.
You are messing around right, you dont have a serious question at all. Or am I wrong?
You are messing around right, you dont have a serious question at all. Or am I wrong?
Oh God, dont pull the cables off while its running. You are gonna fry some expensive stuff that way. This is OK if you have a carb and no computer, I have done it. Take your alt in and get it tested, sounds like its toast. Your lucky if it is bad. No question is dumb, that can be a huge mistake.
no he did have a serious question.... normally this guy answers all in debth tech questions and this little thing stumped him..... i asked him why he asked me and his answer was...
BooSTeD87StanG: wow u actually ask me??
Daggar KB2: it's either that or post my dumb question in the forum. LOL..
i thought it would be funny to post it for him.. soo yes it is real, a joke, but real
BooSTeD87StanG: wow u actually ask me??
Daggar KB2: it's either that or post my dumb question in the forum. LOL..
i thought it would be funny to post it for him.. soo yes it is real, a joke, but real
at least its somethign youll never hafta worry about again dont ya think?? even if u do decide to do something with serious draw in the future, at least your ready for it
if not already posted, a battery should have a static charge of 12.6 volts. at 2K rpm, one should see ~14.5 volts.
as JR said a parts store can test it all in the vehicle. an alternative is yank the battery and alt and take them in for bench testing.
good luck.
as JR said a parts store can test it all in the vehicle. an alternative is yank the battery and alt and take them in for bench testing.
good luck.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Seriously - as jrichker said, take it to Sears or AutoZone. They'll load test the alternator and battery for free. You can't beat it.
If you go with a 2G 95A alternator upgrade (see www.pa-performance.com for more details on the alternator options), you simply bolt it on, and make slight changes to the wiring - instructions and bits/pieces in their kits are idiot proof. If you bolt on a 3G (130A and larger) you'll have to carve a small divit out of the alternator bracket for the case to clear. Again, PA-Performance will show you exactly how to do that. If it's bad, I'd lose the 65A and put at least a 95A in. It's not that much more expensive, and it can't do anything but help to have plenty of volts and current at your beck and call.
If you go with a 2G 95A alternator upgrade (see www.pa-performance.com for more details on the alternator options), you simply bolt it on, and make slight changes to the wiring - instructions and bits/pieces in their kits are idiot proof. If you bolt on a 3G (130A and larger) you'll have to carve a small divit out of the alternator bracket for the case to clear. Again, PA-Performance will show you exactly how to do that. If it's bad, I'd lose the 65A and put at least a 95A in. It's not that much more expensive, and it can't do anything but help to have plenty of volts and current at your beck and call.
Here's websites with pictures of the 3G installation...
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/Auto/3G_130A_Alternator_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation
Use these sites for information on the right way to do the wiring. Some people will tell you that you can skip the wiring upgrade, but it will catch up with you sooner or later. A fire in the wiring harness is ugly and expensive.
Under no circumstances connect the two 10 gauge black/white wires to the 3G alternator. If the fuse blows in the 4 gauge wire, the two 10 gauge wires will be overloaded to the point of catching fire and burning up the wiring harness.
Electric fan = 3G alternator if you want long life & reliability from your car.
Figure this:
Ignition system & computer = 12 amps
Fuel pump = 12 amps
Exterior lights = 15 amps
Fan (heater or A/C) = 15 amps (can run between 5-25 amps depending on setting)
Radio & instruments = 10 amps
Wipers = 10 amps
That's grand total of 74 amps from a 65 amp alternator. Talk about overdrawn at the bank!
dont listen to these guys about autozone or sears......
take it to Advance and pay my bills
seriously, i work there.... the test machines are no joke. they do a quik load test, but if it was garbage, they wouldnt be allowed to do it.
take it to Advance and pay my bills
seriously, i work there.... the test machines are no joke. they do a quik load test, but if it was garbage, they wouldnt be allowed to do it.
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