Stall converter advice on C4 ??

[2002BLGT]

friend is trying to decide what RPM stall to use to run the eighth mile , well heres the low down

car as of right now
87 coupe all UPR pro suspension front and back , all stock SD 5.0 FI engine , stock C4 , no shift kit , stock converter
3.73s / 28x9 slicks , weighs approx 2900-3000 with driver , long tubes , 3 inch exhaust , 125 shot , best eight mile time 7.79 w/1.8 avg 60ft at 87 mph

first of next season car will sit as follows
same bottom end , GT40 cast irons , explorer intake , stage 1 trickflow cam , mass air conversion , same tranny with B&M transpak , 410s or 430s with 26x10.5 slicks , 125-150 shot

any ET predictions and someone please recommend a stall for it ???????

 

[Rick 91GT]

www.edgeracingconverters.com Andre should be able to help you out

 

[dirtracer]

Edge converters are good as well as Coan. I personally use JPT. Can't go wrong with any of them.

Tell your friend he needs a shift kit in that stock C4. It won't survive long if run stock. Shift kits are cheap and easy and will let it shift harder to help the clutches live. It will go a long way in helping the C4 survive.

 

[2002BLGT]

yea its getting a shift kit and stall , hes got a 3500 stall but its used and we arent sure if its any good or not , I think that 3500 is a little bit much especially since he wants to put it on the street next year

 

[dirtracer]

Nah. 3500rpm isn't too much on the street. I run 5500rpm on the street,..........but I'm sick. View attachment 519155

 

[PNY PWR]

I got my C4 last night from my bud at work..paid him $75 for it. I'm trying to figure out what stall to get as well. Probably will go w/ a Neal Chance, B&M, or Edge.

Never had a stall b4, or an automatic Mustang for that matter. Something that's botherin me is...Let's say it's a 3000 stall, if your car runs 2000@60mph how is that going to work? will it be stalling in 3rd gear at 60mph?

Mine's a daily driver so I need a stall that will work.

Any suggestions on a rebuild kit for this tranny? I see B&M has a kit that rebuild and covert to manual at the same time. I'm an auto noob.

Sorry if I jacked your thread, maybe it'll help you too.

 

[dirtracer]

It is anmost a sin to say Neal Chance and B&M in the same sentence. Not even close to the same quality. Neal Chance is a top notch and VERY expensive converter. B&M is Junk. They sell cheap built generic converters. In my opinion there shift kits aren't much better. One thing B&M is good at is advertising. Many people us their product, because it is commonly available through mail order. It doesdn't change the fact that it is junk.
I buy my rebuild kits from www.bulkpart.com They have great prices and have stock parts as well as performace parts. TransGo shift kits are very good. They are also available on that Website. I also like Fairbanks shift kits. TCI kits are OK, but not my favorite. Just a step about B&M.

Stall speed is dependant on power input. If you put in 300hp you get X amount of stall speed. If you are leaving from a stop light at light throttle, you may be only putting out 75HP so the stall will not go to the high end stall speed. I may stall 1000 rpm less than max. If you are crusing on the highway at part throttle, same thing. It's not going to max stall because you are not feeding it with all of your available power. Yes, it will still slip more than a stock stall converter. That is why it is very important to us a good trans fluid cooler. Most transfluid heat is created in the converter and pump. Now, if you have X amount of stall with your 300hp motor, and your soup up that motor and now you are making 400hp, the max stall speed will go up as well. Since you are feeding the converter with more power, you get more stall. Maybe as much as 400-600rpm more than you had before. That is why racers tend to use a custom built stall converters, so they can pin point the exact stall speed to optimise their engine output. If you buy an off the shelf converter, the exact stall rpm is only a guess. It will fall in a range within 400-500rpm of it's advertised stall speed.

Hope this helps.

 

[PNY PWR]

helped me alot, thank you very much. I need to find a good tranny builder here intown to rebuld this C4. Neal Chance is just 20min. away, so I'm going to check them out for sure. I'm sure they can figure out a coverter that will fit my needs and combo.

I'm just new to autos and stalls. Want to do the swap and be right the first time. I think the car will respond well to tossing the T5 for a well built C4 with my gears and supercharger.

What about converting the valve body to manual vs. a new manual valve body? Do I even need a manual valve body at all? I'd like to do this wap on as much as a budget as I can get away with, just shelled out for the Paxton.

 

[dirtracer]

I personally like reverse manual valve bodies. An automatic valve body shifts at cruse speeds with a vacuum modulator. You don't have any vacuum with a blower. Automatic shifts can be done, but it is very easy when you go with a manual valve body.
A reverse manual valve body can give you much harder shifts than an automatic vavle body can. The pressures are increased and the fluid passages are rerouted to optimise faster shifts. It gives the kind of shifts that you just can't get from an automatic valve body. It's really your choice. It depends on how much street driving you do and if you like to work the shifter a lot.

 

[PNY PWR]

interesting, i'll go manual valve body