bk005 said:
Yes they are. At first, I did it as a design eliment, but after they were removed, I realized that they were rusted beyond repair anyway and there was no saving them.
SN65
The SN65 project car
- Thread starter SN65
- Start date
Yes they are. At first, I did it as a design eliment, but after they were removed, I realized that they were rusted beyond repair anyway and there was no saving them.
SN65
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Hi 67,67coupe351w said:Wow, and I thought I was anal
I'm thinking I would have called 8 mm's good to go
Its looking good, Im ready to see the final product!
Factory specs are plus or minus 3mm. that being the case, 8mm is actually pretty far off.
As far as seeing the finished product, I am also getting anxious. I can't wait to get this beast on the road.
Type at you later
SN65
Hi All,
Well. After countless hours of welding and grinding, I have the cowl / firewall area finished. I still have to fit the cowl cover in place, but I will not be able to do that until I decide how to install the windshield wiper motor and linkage.
All told, I am very happy so far.
Time to check the measurements again and finish the frame rails.
SN65
Well. After countless hours of welding and grinding, I have the cowl / firewall area finished. I still have to fit the cowl cover in place, but I will not be able to do that until I decide how to install the windshield wiper motor and linkage.
All told, I am very happy so far.
Time to check the measurements again and finish the frame rails.
SN65
reenmachine
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
8mm is .315 inch!!! You'd let that go?67coupe351w said:Wow, and I thought I was anal
I'm thinking I would have called 8 mm's good to go
bk005
New Member
SN65 said:
If you have a chance, could you take a pic of one. Im fixing to do mine, and I am nervous as to how it comes out, as far as filling the gap back in.
Thanks,
This thread rocks...
one2gamble
Founding Member
SN65 said:
I actually have a question about this, did you just cut them back to the roof line and clean up the seem? I have been thinking of cutting the lip off mine and then having the flat part roll up into the roof. Gimme some closer pics
Hi One,one2gamble said:I actually have a question about this, did you just cut them back to the roof line and clean up the seem? I have been thinking of cutting the lip off mine and then having the flat part roll up into the roof. Gimme some closer pics
What I did was to cut the entire lip off. You have to be carefull when doing this. This is the point where the roof is welded to the rest of the car. Once you cut off this lip, you will have separated the roof from the body. Once this was done, we removed the extra sheet metal welded to the main piller. You have to be carefull in this step because you will get to a point where there is no metal behind it and this material has to remain in place.
Cool...
To finish the area off and reatach the roof to the body we are going to weld a flat piece of metal to the inside edge of the window surround. This piece will protrude out into space in exactly the same position as the original drip rail (picture that if you can). We are then going to roll this material up onto the roof and piller tracing the path of the drip rail.
When we are done, we will have a visible bead that follows the window opening all the way around. We are going to attempt to duplicate the same detail that surrounds the rear vents (same height and width) so that it will look like an original design eliment.
At least... That is what we are planning. Things tend to change when you see them life size and in person.
Hope this helps.
SN65
PS: Also, you may have a problem if you try to roll that lip up the way you are discribing. You will actually be folding the metal of the roof seam all the way back onto itself. It may work, it may not, I do not know. I guess it is a judgment call you are going to have to make.
67coupe351w
New Member
reenmachine said:
Well hey in all fairness if the spec is +- 3 mm and it was 8 mm off thats a minimum of 5 mm off (I know and a maximum of 11 mm) but the '03 wheelbase is 101.3 inchs (2573 mm). Which makes a 5 mm error within 0.19% and even an 11 mm error is within 0.42%!!
Whatever happend to engineering to within 10% :
Ok ok maybe im not as anal as I thought but thats why SN65 is doin this project and not me and just maybe i woulda shot for 4 mm and made it a happy medium
Have you said what the plans are for the front end of the car? is it going to be '03?
Hi 67,67coupe351w said:
Wow... An 03 front end and a 65 rear....
That is even to bizzar for me.
Under the hood will be the 03 internals, but the exterior will be all 65.
SN65
67coupe351w
New Member
SN65 said:Hi 67,
Wow... An 03 front end and a 65 rear....
That is even to bizzar for me.
Under the hood will be the 03 internals, but the exterior will be all 65.
SN65
What is this make fun of me day?I know you got the skills to pull it off
Cobra4Me
New Member
SN65:
A wonderful project you have going there.
A lot of welding and fabricating... my Hats off to you.
I tought I had some skills... not!
Anyways, I saw the insert in HotRod Mag, and I set my mind on finding more about your project.
I have a project very similar in many aspects to yours going on right now.
There is some welding and fabrication involved but nothing like yours.
My Name is Sergio and I go by the nickname of "Cobra4Me" om many Shelby Cobras and Mustangs Forums.
My Project is a Factory Five Cobra 427 Roadster MKIII that I am building all by myself, previously I built another Cobra with a 5.0 engine and I still own it, so I'll have 2 Shelby Cobra replicas soon.
I Bought a wrecked 03 Cobra that had only 5K miles on the odometer when it got smacked on the side, the drivetrain wasn't hurt at all, so basically I'm building this project with all NEW parts.
About a Month Ago I finally got to start the engine in the Factory Five Frame, video that you can see here:
http://www.cobra4me.com/phpBB/SClives.php
A wonderful project you have going there.
A lot of welding and fabricating... my Hats off to you.
I tought I had some skills... not!
Anyways, I saw the insert in HotRod Mag, and I set my mind on finding more about your project.
I have a project very similar in many aspects to yours going on right now.
There is some welding and fabrication involved but nothing like yours.
My Name is Sergio and I go by the nickname of "Cobra4Me" om many Shelby Cobras and Mustangs Forums.
My Project is a Factory Five Cobra 427 Roadster MKIII that I am building all by myself, previously I built another Cobra with a 5.0 engine and I still own it, so I'll have 2 Shelby Cobra replicas soon.
I Bought a wrecked 03 Cobra that had only 5K miles on the odometer when it got smacked on the side, the drivetrain wasn't hurt at all, so basically I'm building this project with all NEW parts.
About a Month Ago I finally got to start the engine in the Factory Five Frame, video that you can see here:
http://www.cobra4me.com/phpBB/SClives.php
cobra4me that thing is badass, is that going to be a cobra? i didnt really read you post sorry, the engine sounds great, i was expecting more of a glassy sound or lopier but it sounds sooo mean!! awsome stuff, i wish i could do that
one2gamble
Founding Member
SN65 said:Hi One,
What I did was to cut the entire lip off. You have to be carefull when doing this. This is the point where the roof is welded to the rest of the car. Once you cut off this lip, you will have separated the roof from the body. Once this was done, we removed the extra sheet metal welded to the main piller. You have to be carefull in this step because you will get to a point where there is no metal behind it and this material has to remain in place.
Cool...
To finish the area off and reatach the roof to the body we are going to weld a flat piece of metal to the inside edge of the window surround. This piece will protrude out into space in exactly the same position as the original drip rail (picture that if you can). We are then going to roll this material up onto the roof and piller tracing the path of the drip rail.
When we are done, we will have a visible bead that follows the window opening all the way around. We are going to attempt to duplicate the same detail that surrounds the rear vents (same height and width) so that it will look like an original design eliment.
At least... That is what we are planning. Things tend to change when you see them life size and in person.
Hope this helps.
SN65
PS: Also, you may have a problem if you try to roll that lip up the way you are discribing. You will actually be folding the metal of the roof seam all the way back onto itself. It may work, it may not, I do not know. I guess it is a judgment call you are going to have to make.
interesting stuff a lot of what you described was kind of what I was afraid of concerning cutting it off. We were actually going to add metal to the drip rail rather then just trying to use the existing but theres a lot of work yet to do to get that far.
bk005
New Member
one2gamble said:
I am thinking of welding in new starp in 2 pices, leaving 1/2 the drip rail to hold everyhting together, and onec the other is in, cut the rest out and repeat.
This sound good to anyone? I am not sure what to expect.
Hi All,
Well after a bit of struggling I have the frame rails finished. We had to do a bit of pulling on the rack to get things just right. Also, the upper lip of the rails had to be heated up and beat into place.
Now I will be taking a break for x-mass. Happy holidays to all.
Catch you after the new year.
SN65
Well after a bit of struggling I have the frame rails finished. We had to do a bit of pulling on the rack to get things just right. Also, the upper lip of the rails had to be heated up and beat into place.
Now I will be taking a break for x-mass. Happy holidays to all.
Catch you after the new year.
SN65
Hi All,
I just could not stay away.
I cam in just to trial fit the front fenders and valance to get an idea as to how things are shaping up.
Here are some photos.
After mocking things up a bit I am thinking that I will not have to relocate the front valance. I will be incorporating a front spoiler that will cover the bottom of the core support and also help direct air through the openings I will be cutting for intercooler air flow, etc... I have taped the rough outline in green tape.
Anyway... I will be doing a bit of thinking over the new year holliday and hopefully have a good plan formed and ready to go by the 3rd.
Catch you all then.
SN65
I just could not stay away.
I cam in just to trial fit the front fenders and valance to get an idea as to how things are shaping up.
Here are some photos.
After mocking things up a bit I am thinking that I will not have to relocate the front valance. I will be incorporating a front spoiler that will cover the bottom of the core support and also help direct air through the openings I will be cutting for intercooler air flow, etc... I have taped the rough outline in green tape.
Anyway... I will be doing a bit of thinking over the new year holliday and hopefully have a good plan formed and ready to go by the 3rd.
Catch you all then.
SN65
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