pics of my MM Motorsports 4 bolt caster/camber plates

El Diablo

Member
Aug 1, 2004
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Just installed!!!

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TaupeGT said:
Can someone briefly explain why you would use or need caster camber plates when using as larger dropping spring? thanks.

When you drop your car quite a bit it changes the geometry of the front suspension enough to make it difficult to set your camber back within specs. The plates allow for more adjustment.

El Diablo, I know this is an old thread but I wanted to ask, did you use the washers for between your strut towers and the plates? It doesn't look like it. See mine...

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Usefullness of the plates...

From what I know, caster/camber plates are essentially just camber plates because the caster on a Mustang is non-adjustable from the factory.

These plates are installed after suspension work has been done and are used in a re-alignment of the front end of the car to prevent drift and excessive tire wear amongst other things.

It is important to note, though, that sometimes these aftermarket caster/camber kits do not offer enough adjustment of the camber of a Mustang. Often after years of driving, excessive amounts of camber will prevent a technician from realigning the car using the stock or aftermarket camber plates. In this case a camber kit would be installed directly in the strut mounting to allow alignment of the vehicle.

I would only recommend that the caster/camber plates purchased will offer enough adjustment for one's car.

- Brian
 
I just picked my car up after having the mm c/c plates installed and on one side it was .3 out of the factory spec for camber, the tech told me that it was fine and it was not enough to wear the tires incorrectly. Anyone else had this experience - I see from brian's post above this might be pretty common. Also the plates installation ended up costing $432.00 with the mounting and balancing of two drag radials, does this seem like a bit much ?

Is it the added weight of the kb that has lowered the car a little more than others with eibach pro's ?
 
When my car was in the shop, I was quoted prices like these...

Front-end alignment, replace front-right inner tie-rod (it was worn), labor: $350

Front-end alignment, camber kit, labor: nearly $500 (that was outrageous)

What I paid...
I replaced the tie rod myself for $16.99 (parts) and had the camber kit installed and a front-end alignment plus labor for $150.

It all depends on the shop, but you are really just going to take a beating on labor anywhere you go. All in all, maybe it was a tad high...

And yes, from what I've heard from friends and the technician who worked on my car, excessive camber on GTs and Cobras is common.

- Brian
 
Silvr04GT said:
Did you have a hard time getting the strut top nut off? What did you use to get it off? Impact gun?

My stock struts had a "flat head" slot that I inserted an large flathead screwdriver in to hold the shaft while I loosened the nut. And my Bilsteins have a hex slot that I used a hex bit to hold the shaft while I tightened the nut.

I installed my plates myself in about 15 minutes so $400.00 for an install seems a bit excessive. It cost $85.00 for an alignment afterwards.
 
it took this "tech" 4-5 hours to do mine, my original bill was like 485 and I told the manager I felt like I was paying someone to learn on my car and that it seemed a little high and he agreed and took some off .....they also noticed the shake I have in my steering wheel which goes away at times, rebalanced my front wheels and retorqed them. I think the shake is caused by my stock front discs, which I willl be replacing soon, unless anyone else has had this problem and fixed it. My cobra semed to do the same thing like the tires got flat spots in them sitting overnight and once they warmed up they were fine.
 
In regards to the shake...

My father's '02 Chevy (geez!) Impala had a bad shaking problem under breaking at all speeds. We first believed that the rotors had to be bad, maybe even warped, but on a brand new car (this was in '02) that seemed unlikely. Either way, we had them turned and put them back on.

The shaking persisted.

Eventually, we found out that faulty tires with weird bald spots and uneven wear were causing the nasty vibration. This was pretty lame since the car was virtually brand new at the time.

If you have plans to replace the rotors go ahead, but keep an eye on those tires as well.

- Brian
 
GDawg said:
My stock struts had a "flat head" slot that I inserted an large flathead screwdriver in to hold the shaft while I loosened the nut. And my Bilsteins have a hex slot that I used a hex bit to hold the shaft while I tightened the nut.

I installed my plates myself in about 15 minutes so $400.00 for an install seems a bit excessive. It cost $85.00 for an alignment afterwards.

How hard/easy was it to install?