Possible Major Brake Problems

I drive a 2000 mustang gt and my brakes were working just fine. I bought wagner rotors and wagner ceramic pads for the back and when i disconnected the calipers and installed the new equipment i am unable to bleed the brakes. Anyone ran into this problem or have any suggestions. PS: my master cylinder is just fine we bled it afterwards.

Stangless for now
 
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Why did you bleed the master cylinder? Now you got air inside and you are really in a bad spot.

WHen changing pads and rotors, there is no need to bleed the brakes. It's not required for the pad change but it's good maintainence to do on it's own.

There are 4 bleeder screws...one on each caliper. Open it up and pump the pedal and close the screw at the end of each pump. That's the only bleeding you should have done. The Master cylinder bleeder screws should not be touched.
 
I have a brake problem also. I had mine done a few months ago and it had a little pulsing which I thought would go away. Now it seems worse than ever at certain speeds/pressure. I'm guessing that the rotor was not properly cut. Any other ideas what it could be?


When I used to do my own brakes, I had to bleed them also b/c I had to compress the caliper to swap the pads. I always watched the master cylinder to make sure it did not run dry. (During bleeding.) Maybe that's what happened to mustangsCobra12?
 
mrvax said:
I have a brake problem also. I had mine done a few months ago and it had a little pulsing which I thought would go away. Now it seems worse than ever at certain speeds/pressure. I'm guessing that the rotor was not properly cut. Any other ideas what it could be?

You prettyt much answered your own question.
 
Ya know, I bought speed bleeders... The were aluminum and when the first one I tried to install stripped out I threw the other three away. Stay away from those! Goodbye $20 :(
 
bdcardinal said:
if you want to make bleeding the brakes easier, get Speed Bleeders. they allow you to have one person bleed the brakes, and there is no need to constantly loosen and tighten the bleeder screws.

speed bleeders = :nice:
 
Kilgore Trout said:
Ya know, I bought speed bleeders... The were aluminum and when the first one I tried to install stripped out I threw the other three away. Stay away from those! Goodbye $20 :(


I don;t know what speed bleeders you got but mine are not aluminum. They are steel.

I have em on both my cars and they really help when i swap my brake setups around and need to bleed the brakes.
 
ok I'm not understanding why you had to bleed your brakes after install. I have done the front and back brakes why did you need to do anything other than a c-clamp and the rear cap tool (and a piece of wood for you lucky pbr guys :nonono: ) and maybe removed the cap for the excess fluild if you filled it up with your brakes down to the rotors.
 
Makalani_96GT said:
ok I'm not understanding why you had to bleed your brakes after install. I have done the front and back brakes why did you need to do anything other than a c-clamp and the rear cap tool (and a piece of wood for you lucky pbr guys :nonono: ) and maybe removed the cap for the excess fluild if you filled it up with your brakes down to the rotors.

interesting you were able too compress the rear brakes with a c-clamp :rolleyes:

that is kind of hard too do considering the rear calipers are the screw in too compress type... i have a brake caliper tool too do this... it fits into the 2 slots on the face of the rear caliper pistons.. and you twist it clockwise and the pistons screw back in...

but you are right about the brake bleeding.. i too do not get why you bled the brakes... there was no need too...
 
Makalani_96GT said:
ok I'm not understanding why you had to bleed your brakes after install. I have done the front and back brakes why did you need to do anything other than a c-clamp and the rear cap tool(and a piece of wood for you lucky pbr guys :nonono: ) and maybe removed the cap for the excess fluild if you filled it up with your brakes down to the rotors.

ummmm shut up :nice: