Man, What a pain! 351W

[way2fast78]

Well,

Another update on the 351W swap.

The headers have really been holding me up. I finally got them done and it looks nice.( I wrapped them in thermotech wrap to keep the engine bay heat down) I ordered the headman 302 headers and with a little patience they work. I had to lengthen the tubes on the pass side 1 1/2". The drivers side required me to massage the floor pan a little for clearance.

This thing is like a puzzle. I have now put the engine in place and removed it 11 times. Every time I feel I am close, something else comes up to slow the process down. I put the bell housing in with the headers installed BEFORE I put the starter in, now that was dumb. Pulled it all out again to do it right.

As most of you know the power steering pump will not fit. I ordered a new Billet bracket for for a 351W and guess what, It does not fit. I'm gona mill a small aluminum bracket to adapt to the older bracket (and get it chromed of course). It looks like it will work well.

Well, I am getting there. It looks like it'll be out tearing up the streets in about 2 weeks. Just in time for summer.

 

[cobraii351]

I didn't have near the problems you are having with yours on my car. My powersteering pump fit with a small extension on the pump bracket. But I have the early bracket and pump, not the 78 version. I know you already have your starter and such in but you would be ahead of the game with one on the new factory gear reduction starters and a heat shield. The heat shield I made out of aluminum and saved starter I'm sure. I then replaced the stock starter with a PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) unit. Spins over to beat all hell now. It can be replaced by removing the rack and sliding it forward along the pan.

Good Luck with everything,

Tim


BTW, I have pictures of my modified for 351 "302" Heddman's in this thread:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=530842

 

[way2fast78]

Hey Tim,Thanks for the pics! Your headers look alot like the ones I "manipulated" It's a shame that nobody makes a bolt in huh? How's is the powdercoating holding up?

By the way, I tried to fit the starter in and guess what?

I DIDNT FIT. It looks like I am going to either clearance the pan or put a smaller starter in.

Where did you get your starter? I guess it would be a better idea to put a new one in anyways. Looks like a pain to replace it if needed.

It's all good, and I am sure it will be worth it when I finally get this beast up and running.

 

[Mstng2]

On mine I "massaged the oil pan for starter clearance, then painted it afterwords. After paint the starter hides the massaged area well. Of course you know my header story. (if not see my post with pic in the recent header thread)

 

[cobraii351]

If you're using a MII bellhousing you will probably need to cleareance the pan. I used a "standard" 157 tooth C4 bell. I had no oil pan issues. The starter was for a later model mustang 5.0 94-95 and some years before and also some trucks used the same type starter. It is smaller but by how much I couldn't tell you for sure. With me using the different bell it's hard to tell what different issues you'll have.

Tim

 

[Gael]

I'd just go with a smaller starter, like the PMGR ones. If you search for the forum for starter or starters, you should get some good info.

 

[way2fast78]

I bought a new Powermaster gear reduction starter today and it looks like it will work well. I installed it today and hey, IT Fits!

By the way, the old starter had only one power wire going to it but the powermaster has 2, one for bat and another for ign. How do i properly wire this so I dont burn it up.

I als purchased a new 1 wire 100 amp alternator with a March set-up. How do I wire this as well. Any input would be greatly appreciated

 

[vetwhat]

I have read a lot of posts that people have had to mod their oil pans to fit a starter in there with a 351w. I'm thoroughly confused. I only had to reshape to clear the power steering. I'm using my factory '78 302 II starter on my 351w. what gives. as far as I know my 351w has a garden variety 351w front sump pan. can anyone clear this up for me ??
p.s. I've used both a t-5 bellhousing and currently a factory 4 speed bell housing with a t-5 tranny. everything else the same

 

[parthos]

I kinda ran into some of the issues with my 302 this winter. I put on a milodon 8 qt pan, thus I had to use a mini starter, and then the pan would hit the manual rack and pinion. I solved this problem by building some spacers to space the engine up 1/2 an inch, yet then this caused problems, now I need a hood scoop. So currently I'm running no hood, until I build a scoop on a spare hood I have. One thing leads to another, that's for sure!

 

[1badII]

I bought a new Powermaster gear reduction starter today and it looks like it will work well. I installed it today and hey, IT Fits!

By the way, the old starter had only one power wire going to it but the powermaster has 2, one for bat and another for ign. How do i properly wire this so I dont burn it up.

I als purchased a new 1 wire 100 amp alternator with a March set-up. How do I wire this as well. Any input would be greatly appreciated

As far as the ministarter, do a search for "ministarter" in the classic forums, there are some who have upgraded to a later Fox starter and they say how to rewire it. For the one wire alternator, you have 2 options, rewire your car to use an internally regulated alternator, or go to this site and order the replacement regulator that allows you to run an internally regulated alternator.
http://www.pa-performance.com/displ...qPartNO@,rqDesc@,rqOrder@,backNum@1,nextNum@2

 

[Leonard G]

High guy's. Thought I would come here and make my presence known. I reconize some of the name's from the other mustang II site. Talk to you later. Leonard.

 

[Leonard G]

I just went through the pic's. you guy's have some fine ride's. I am stuffing a 351C in my II. Lot of mod's, Lot of work. Leonard.

 

[jeffnoel]

For the 1-wire alt just run one heavy gauge wire ( I used 4-ga) to the battery side of the solenoid, not really rewireing, only thing with wiring this way is your amp gauge no longer works. Alt is internally regulated so when you start the car you just blip the throttle to turn it on. Once activated it doesn't turn off until you shut the engine off.