Fuel Gauge Off??

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Take the gas tank out and replace the sender,not hard.I bought mine and the dealer said it had a full tank so I get about 20 miles out in the middle of nowhere and it shoots down to empty and the light comes on.Luckily there was a station right there.
 
Use the SEARCH feature

I know most people want a direct answer for a specific problem they are having. You should try the SEARCH feature before posting a question. You'll get a lot of info that may or may not relate directly to your stuation. Embedded in some of the threads, you'll find detailed instructions on how to troubleshoot basically anything, thanks to HISSIN50 and JRICHKER and others of the like. Take the time and search for what you need. :nice:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=449339
 
The ebst thing to do-

Is junk the original fuel gauge, pull the needle of the dash and add an AUTOMETER, by tapping into the wires of the original gauge. Stocker sucks!!!!!!!!
Fuel SENDing unit is your prob........ Been there and done that! Chane it and your done, Good for another 10 years!

Hope this helps-Anthony :nice:
 
monte87 said:
Is junk the original fuel gauge, pull the needle of the dash and add an AUTOMETER, by tapping into the wires of the original gauge. Stocker sucks!!!!!!!!
Fuel SENDing unit is your prob........ Been there and done that! Chane it and your done, Good for another 10 years!

Hope this helps-Anthony :nice:
That's why I went with the Nordskog Digital dash for my 89. I had issues with the RPM needle getting mechanically stuck on 1100 RPM when it was actually at idle (800 RPM). :bang:

If you run into to problems with the Autometer, you may have to remove the AS module. Good luck.
 
Never had a prob yet~Thank God!

dude,

Never had a prob yet~Thank God! Its not connected ato any module... Straight to the wires for the original gauge going to the sender in the tank.

Ant :nice:
 
You lose the Anti-slosh mechanicm when you go aftermarket anyhow... Unfortunately!
but-Hey ya learn to live with it, all i care about is not running out of gas due to improper readings, or the well known "hanging on F" syndrome for an entire tank fill... hahahahah i hated that! @ the last minute right before-Your running out of gas-It shoots to 1/4 tank or E......
Ant :flag:
 
southbronx said:
I know most people want a direct answer for a specific problem they are having. You should try the SEARCH feature before posting a question. You'll get a lot of info that may or may not relate directly to your stuation. Embedded in some of the threads, you'll find detailed instructions on how to troubleshoot basically anything, thanks to HISSIN50 and JRICHKER and others of the like. Take the time and search for what you need. :nice:

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=449339

ya... there was nothing under search for this problem.
 
I'd go with what Monte87 suggested, an aftermarket gauge. When you say "off", do you mean it reads 1/2 tank when it's really full (vice-versa) or is it erratic (bouncing up and down)? :shrug:

If it's erratic, you may have to replace the AS module if your sending unit checks out ok. You really can't re-calibrate it unless you really want/need to keep the gauge and that involves repositioning the needle at just the right spot on the shaft :bang: and figuring out where to poisition it according the Ohms scale. Too much math and little luck.

The fuel gauge wire to the dash (Y/W) should read 22 Ohms when empty and 145 Ohms when full. The Y/B is to the low fuel warning light.
 
93gt1217 said:
So Do You Have To Remove The A/s Module Or No?

If you go with an aftermarket gauge, yes. The AS module interfere's with the signal coming from the float and your gauge will not read correctly. The AS module prevents the erratic measurement/display when the vehicle accelerates or is in a turn by averaging the signal to the fuel gauge.