I really need you guys help on this one
- Thread starter 2.3Lxhatch311
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I'm positive that I saw the screen at Advanced and it said "87 Mustang 2.3 N/A" But am I positive they didn't screw up? Hell no. But, this problem didn't show up till I started working on other things. It ran fine with the injectors for days. I am almost certain it's an igniton problem of some sort...
well, cap and rotor didn't help. I'm going to put my old bosch platinums back in place of the motorcraft plugs I just bought. Maybe it needs platinums... (it was born with platinums)
93GreenLX
Founding Member
93GreenLX said:
Well, 're-born'. It's had platinums since it was first cranked after rebuild. But putting them back in had no effect. Is it possible that my fuel filter could be clogged? Black smoke puffs from the exhaust pipe, but just barely. Is black smoke lean, or rich? I though rich was white, and lean was black...
2.3Lxhatch311 said:
White smoke from the exhaust is usually oil burning
Black smoke from the exhaust is usually too much fuel.
Pull all your plugs and lay them out in order.
Do any show major discoloration from the next plug?
It might be a stuck injector or something.
Stinger
Founding Member
If it runs like ass at the proper base timing setting, you didn't unplug the spout connector before setting the timing.
Plugs are all identicle. they are a bit sooty, but other than that normal. No one plug is any worse off than the others. No one has ever had a problem like this before?
yeah, I unplugged it. there is something wrong there. The timing mark on the balancer pulley has to be pointing straight up for it to run even close to properly...Stinger said:
HyYoSilver
Founding Member
Black smoke means it's running rich, blue is oil smoke, white is usually because of a coolant leak.
If you've disabled the EGR, that's why the 31 code is in memory; shouldn't cause the sputtering.....
A bad O2 wouldn't cause the sputtering either; just make it run rich.
To check the TPS: There are three wires going to it. One is ground, one is a 5v reference, the third is the signal wire. Use a straight pin to probe the wires at the connector. First probe with the key off for the ground; with one probe on the wire, and the other on a part of the engine, the meter will read near 0 ohms resistance.
When you find the ground wire, then search for the 5v reference by probing the remaining two with the key on, engine off (positive probe to wire, negative probe to an engine ground.
The remaining wire will be the signal wire, and should read about .8v-1v with the key on and throttle closed. When advancing the throttle, the voltage reading should go up to about 4v, in a smooth manner.
Hope this helps.
Let us know what you find out.
If you've disabled the EGR, that's why the 31 code is in memory; shouldn't cause the sputtering.....
A bad O2 wouldn't cause the sputtering either; just make it run rich.
To check the TPS: There are three wires going to it. One is ground, one is a 5v reference, the third is the signal wire. Use a straight pin to probe the wires at the connector. First probe with the key off for the ground; with one probe on the wire, and the other on a part of the engine, the meter will read near 0 ohms resistance.
When you find the ground wire, then search for the 5v reference by probing the remaining two with the key on, engine off (positive probe to wire, negative probe to an engine ground.
The remaining wire will be the signal wire, and should read about .8v-1v with the key on and throttle closed. When advancing the throttle, the voltage reading should go up to about 4v, in a smooth manner.
Hope this helps.
Let us know what you find out.
HyYoSilver said:Black smoke means it's running rich, blue is oil smoke, white is usually because of a coolant leak.
If you've disabled the EGR, that's why the 31 code is in memory; shouldn't cause the sputtering.....
A bad O2 wouldn't cause the sputtering either; just make it run rich.
To check the TPS: There are three wires going to it. One is ground, one is a 5v reference, the third is the signal wire. Use a straight pin to probe the wires at the connector. First probe with the key off for the ground; with one probe on the wire, and the other on a part of the engine, the meter will read near 0 ohms resistance.
When you find the ground wire, then search for the 5v reference by probing the remaining two with the key on, engine off (positive probe to wire, negative probe to an engine ground.
The remaining wire will be the signal wire, and should read about .8v-1v with the key on and throttle closed. When advancing the throttle, the voltage reading should go up to about 4v, in a smooth manner.
Hope this helps.
Let us know what you find out.
Thanks, I was trying that earlier, but I was taking a reading at the ground wire for the sensor, guess I'll try again the way you described. btw, that's a cute avitar.
HyYoSilver
Founding Member
Thanks, she is cute and a Ford gal LOL.
I just re-read your posting, and see that you get a code 63, TPS voltage too low. I'll just bet it's dead. Good luck.
I just re-read your posting, and see that you get a code 63, TPS voltage too low. I'll just bet it's dead. Good luck.
HyYoSilver said:
I already replaced it since then, but you are right, it was dead as a doornail. When I turned the variable resistor with my finger nail, it did not spring back out. Could improper adjustment on my new one really cause this much sputtering? Should I unplug it and road test to be sure? (assuming it will run the same as it did without one)
I'm gonna go ahead and update my status so we all know what I'm working with. have changed every single ignition component without any difference. Brand new fuel injectors, worked fine a few days ago. Brand new ECT, brand new TPS, replaced ACT with one from other car, brand new distributor, have changed TFI modules as well. car misses slightly and puffs out black smoke at idle, runs good at WOT, sputters and misses terribly under normal load.
realtripp
New Member
A fuel filter is one of the easiest things to check and should be part of routine maintenance.
I have heard you mention your belt timing a couple times.
In one case you said that the timing mark on the acessory belt needs to be straight up. If you were meaning the auxillary shaft that is not true. The only thing there is that it drives the dizzy and that should be at #1 position with the number one cylinder at TDC.
You also mentioned that you checked the cam timing with a light on the camshaft sprocket. Maybe I misunderstood.
Because it is quick and easy reset your timing, maybe the belt jumped a tooth or more. put the dizzy at #1, cyl #1 at TDC, line up the camshaft sprocket with the mark (or take a string and make sure that there is a straight line between the center of the bolts on the aux and camshafts with the cam pointer mark in there as well) Set the timing right, run it through two full revolutions then tighten the tensioner again.
This should take little time and should be free to do.
I have heard you mention your belt timing a couple times.
In one case you said that the timing mark on the acessory belt needs to be straight up. If you were meaning the auxillary shaft that is not true. The only thing there is that it drives the dizzy and that should be at #1 position with the number one cylinder at TDC.
You also mentioned that you checked the cam timing with a light on the camshaft sprocket. Maybe I misunderstood.
Because it is quick and easy reset your timing, maybe the belt jumped a tooth or more. put the dizzy at #1, cyl #1 at TDC, line up the camshaft sprocket with the mark (or take a string and make sure that there is a straight line between the center of the bolts on the aux and camshafts with the cam pointer mark in there as well) Set the timing right, run it through two full revolutions then tighten the tensioner again.
This should take little time and should be free to do.
HyYoSilver
Founding Member
2.3LXHatch, I assume this is a speed density engine and not MAF...? You should have a MAP or BAP sensor if it's speed density. It's mounted on the driver's side firewall. Might be worthwhile to check this since it runs OK at WOT.
Once a speed density ECU goes into closed loop, it controls the fuel mixture with inputs from the MAP sensor, O2 sensor, and TPS. The O2 won't cause your symptoms, and you've replaced the TPS, so maybe the MAP sensor is bad......?
Once a speed density ECU goes into closed loop, it controls the fuel mixture with inputs from the MAP sensor, O2 sensor, and TPS. The O2 won't cause your symptoms, and you've replaced the TPS, so maybe the MAP sensor is bad......?
Kick @$$ dude. Could save me a fuel filter change. I'll get right on it. We'll see what happens. Hopefully the don88er (don-eighty-ator) will have a good one to give. 
realtripp said:
When I set the timing mark on the balancer at the mark, the cam indicator needle was dead aimed in the cross hair. But the engine wont run right unless the indicator on the balancer is aiming straight at the camshaft sprocket. You could be right here. Does it make more sense now?
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