Hitting the dyno in 2 weeks !

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Mario, do you think i should get dynoed if i have an exhaust leak? do you think i am going to make it worse or warp the headers? or lose alot of power?
Im going to see if i can get someone to fix it tonight. I really want to go, but not if im just going to make things worse :bang:
 
Cobracanuck said:
Mario, do you think i should get dynoed if i have an exhaust leak? do you think i am going to make it worse or warp the headers? or lose alot of power?
Im going to see if i can get someone to fix it tonight. I really want to go, but not if im just going to make things worse :bang:

Where exactly is this exhaust leak on the system ?
What is needed to be fixed ?

Depending on the leak size, I dont think you'd lose that much..maybe a few ponies. I dont think you could damage something either but I'm no expert.

Will I see you tonight at the NCMA meet ?
 
im going to try to go tonight. As far as i can tell, the leak is on the passenger side header. It makes a crazy (fingernail tapping on metal)sound when i start the car, then keeps doing it on every bump, for at least 20 mins.
From what i heard in the 94-95 tech section, it mean header leak. Im not anything close to a mechanic so i dont know for sure how to fix it.
 
Cobracanuck said:
im going to try to go tonight. As far as i can tell, the leak is on the passenger side header. It makes a crazy (fingernail tapping on metal)sound when i start the car, then keeps doing it on every bump, for at least 20 mins.
From what i heard in the 94-95 tech section, it mean header leak. Im not anything close to a mechanic so i dont know for sure how to fix it.

So you think it's between the Head/Header, right ?? If thats the case, you just have to tight them up. Will take a few minutes thats all.

If you think it's between the Longtube header and the H-Pipe, then you'd have to raise the car and tight those up. Either way, it's pretty simple.

or....since you mention a tapping noise, could it be one of your catalic converter shields, if you have them, that bangs on the body ??

I could help you if you want.
 
Sill confused about what is happening to the stang...Clutch/tires :shrug:

I just went for a ride on a normal day, far from being cold and the same chit is happening. I'm putting my slicks on right now as we speak and gonna try it out. I know I wont be spinning those in 4th or 5th gear.

Man, I hope its only the tires that are the problem..:nonono:
 
Stangfreak95 said:
Sill confused about what is happening to the stang...Clutch/tires :shrug:

I just went for a ride on a normal day, far from being cold and the same chit is happening. I'm putting my slicks on right now as we speak and gonna try it out. I know I wont be spinning those in 4th or 5th gear.

Man, I hope its only the tires that are the problem..:nonono:

I still think its gonna be the clutch.. doing the slipping
 
Stangfreak95 said:
It is I guess. Still happening. Somebody experienced is hopefully gonna hop for a ride tonight in my stang so I can show it to someone.. :fuss:


Good luck with it.. I hope you get it figured out...

Your clutch seems like it is not fully grabbing... I wonder if a throw-out barring could be making it not release or grab all the way.. Do you hear any noises? Of it sticking?? Or something like that??
Clutch cable might be stretched, change it cheaper then a clutch..

Does your clutch petal feel normal ???

Well man good luck with it keep us informed.. after tonight
 
KDK1988GT said:
Good luck with it.. I hope you get it figured out...

Your clutch seems like it is not fully grabbing... I wonder if a throw-out barring could be making it not release or grab all the way.. Do you hear any noises? Of it sticking?? Or something like that??
Clutch cable might be stretched, change it cheaper then a clutch..

Does your clutch petal feel normal ???

Well man good luck with it keep us informed.. after tonight

Seriously man I dont know really how this whole clutching process works. I do know the pedal feeling is the same. If I'm stopped, and let go the clutch slowly I can still move forward without pressing the gas pedal so this is a good thing. The worst gear is the 5th. At a minimum load, you just see the rpm's jump up. I dont hear anything different than before.

I have the UPR triple hook adjustable quadrant and firewall adjuster. I've never change the clutch cable. How can I tell if it gone bad ?
 
Try Me said:
Hey Stangfreak, where are you getting your dyno done?

It's at Tapp's. I wont put the stang on there tomorrow :( I really really want to but its useless with the clutch problem. Instead of me, my friend is taking his 92 coupe with some weird stroking kit (might be 364ci).
BAD@ss :hail2: I'm very anxious to see the numbers he'll put down.

Cobracanuck goes at noon and my buddy is at 1pm.
 
.......update.......

We all went there this afternoon. Unfortunately I missed Cobracanuck's runs. I know he had a few problems of his own about pinging :notnice: The numbers he got arent acurrate because he was shutting down about 1000rpm to soon to where his peak is due to pinging.

About my other buddy in his 92 coupe. Since this wasnt a dyno tune appointement, there was no messing around with the fuel pressure and timing. So he ran on stock computer and 14* timing (which is way too low...)and 40pds of fuel. First run he spun on the dyno :D so the numbers werent right. 2nd and 3rd pulls were similar and he put down 391rwhp and 398rwtq. :nice:

He's getting a dynotune at the end of the month and I'm guessing he'll be at around 425rwhp. Thats 500 flywheel hp from a stroked 302 :hail2:

I have a few vids but that might take a few days for me to put it on here.
 
yeah im pretty upset, but ill deal with it.
My engine started to ping at 5000-5300 rpm, so it had to be shut off at that point. The guy doing the pulls (Chris Tapp, owner) didnt want to blow my engine, so he backed up the timing a little bit and finally got one pull in without pinging, but said he didnt give it all, he let up early so he didnt hurt the car.
My one pull was 273.9HP@5250 (shutdown) and 292.3TQ. If you were to look at the dyno graph, HP was still going up when shut down, it really sucks.
Chris told me that i have to run 94 octane from now on (apparently engine cannot handle 91oct ?) and that i should get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. when i do that, Then i will come back and get use of the wideband, and it should help. I am ordering the regualtor this weekend, because i want to go back ASAP to find out my real dyno numbers.
 
Mario !



I don't know your clutch set up but if you have a adjustable one make sure there is some free play on the pedal , don't bring the adjuster too far out , you will minimize the free play on the clutch pedal , putting pressure on the bearing , pushing the pressure plate itself .


More it wears more we have to adjust it , with the factory set up it will adjust itself but pretty chezzy set up .



Also Cold and hot the free play is different .
 
So you guys have a good idea what Dyno can do... :nice:







It's not always numbers , it's how good your set up is working .






You can have tons of stuff on your car but if nothing is matched together it's not gonna do good..





Last summer I had free access to a Dyno at work , I ran 29 time in 2 month with the wide band plugged in , very interesting to see how little changes can do to your car .




I raced on 1/8 mile agains a Stroked 347CI ( some like that ) , this car was gonna destroy me so on 2 runs I got him twice , I was launching at 4K with the spray on and my freaking car was sticking like glue , I got 15 PSI in both tires( nitto 315/35 ) and I even spun the tire on the rim on the right side , this poor guy was just spinning and misted a shift on the 2nd run but when it was hooking it was almost scary to see how fast he was comming but it was too late..... :D




All this to say , some of you have cars with power but it doesn't hook , get some sticky tires and enjoy blowing doors at the trafic light and shut everything off after hitting 2nd gear.


You're not going fast , you prouved your point plus it was a nice kill..... :nice:











All the above is fiction , I'm not in or involved in any street racing activities , this was only for entertainnement..
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mpcv2000 said:
Mario !

I don't know your clutch set up but if you have a adjustable one make sure there is some free play on the pedal , don't bring the adjuster too far out , you will minimize the free play on the clutch pedal , putting pressure on the bearing , pushing the pressure plate itself. More it wears more we have to adjust it.

Martin, I have the UPR triple hook adj quadrant and firewall adjuster. I think I know how to adjust the clutch properly. Correct me if I'm wrong. When you press on the clutch pedal, you need to travel about 2inches down before the clutch gets "hard" to press.

When I installed it last summer, it was on the 2nd hook. After many burnouts at the track and abuse (..and not following the proper breakin process) and after a few firewall adjustements, there was no more room for adjustement. I had to change hook and use my last "one". This is where I'm at. Still shifts ok when normal driving. As soon as I press the pedal to accelerate, it slips.

My friend with the 92 coupe went for a ride with me tonight. I showed him what was happening. He said he has never seen a clutch slipped like that before in his life. It is really that bad. I'll have to get another one for sure. I'm not spending a lot of $$$ either. Just going for a King Cobra clutch. Costs me 265$ with taxes from my local SVT dealer. Then I have to turn the flywheel. Another 40$...:nonono: