C & L: thoughts and a question

Rick 91GT said:
I found better results with a stock box and regular cheap paper filter worked best..


Tried the cone K&N and the K&N panels as well...neither worked as good.


I just went back to the stock airbox with K&N with my 73mm and it works like a charm. It was what Lee suggested. I haven't tried a normal paper filter, but I'm not sure why it would make any difference....the air path would be the same.

Also, for the CAI guys, the stock airbox is a CAI...they take the air from the same place. ;)
 
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damnit!!! that sux cause i dont have the stock airbox. a buddy of mine has the c&l and hes using the long filter and not an air box and he says that it works perfect. i think its a 73mm tho. whats up with that?
 
Insane3D said:
Also, for the CAI guys, the stock airbox is a CAI...they take the air from the same place. ;)

correct, but I forget to mention the fenderwell CAI's, they all do the samething though.

87mustang347 said:
damnit!!! that sux cause i dont have the stock airbox. a buddy of mine has the c&l and hes using the long filter and not an air box and he says that it works perfect. i think its a 73mm tho. whats up with that?

I'm not sure why his works. I didnt have a stock box either, I bought one off ebay for a $1

theres 2 on ebay right now, but more than I paid.

one for 9.99
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34198&item=4551268941&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

one for 13.00
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38634&item=7975657598&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

hope this helps
 
i went to go look at my friends car today and hes not running a bog filter like i thought he was. hes using that moroso cold air kit and is using the c&l pipe and he says it works fine. didnt u guys say that the mafs dont work good with the cold air kits?
 
92BlackGT said:
i have a 73mm one. Never had a problem. Yes it uses the stock sensor.
You posted a question of why your car is so slow. I responded a little bit ago saying that this meter may be your problem.

On my 93 GT (1st sig pic) I had a 76mm C&L along with the rest of the usual bolt-ons minus H&C. The car ran great but was slow. After thinking about swapping it for a year, I realized that I had a Pro-M 75mm MAM in the basement. I swapped them and was amazed at the difference. I gained what I knew I was missing instantly. I have not tried it but a lot of people say if you have one that does not work good that you can rotate it 90 degrees to get the sensor sitting differently in the airflow.

Cliff :)
 
I currently have a C&L 76 MM but I bought a PRO-M 80 MM today. Im going for a dyno tune on the 13th, Im going to see if I can do 2 seprate pulls one w/ the C&L and one w/ the PRO-M. Id like to see the diffrence in the #'s. If the tunners will let me do this Im going to try it, my computer will prob be thinking WTF!!! is going on but it would be an interesting experiment.
 
C&L's suck, i've seen it first hand many times.
If you want to chance running lean on a powerful engine that you have alot of money into go ahead it's your car.
You won't see most of the guy that run low 12's and faster using them. There's a reason for that.
Of course before everyone blows up about this, there is exceptions to the rule, and some cars actually run good with them. But they are inconsistant meters, meaning some cars run good, some don't. A pro m calibrated right always runs right there is no maybe about it.
 
2000xp8 said:
C&L's suck, i've seen it first hand many times.
If you want to chance running lean on a powerful engine that you have alot of money into go ahead it's your car.
You won't see most of the guy that run low 12's and faster using them. There's a reason for that.
Of course before everyone blows up about this, there is exceptions to the rule, and some cars actually run good with them. But they are inconsistant meters, meaning some cars run good, some don't. A pro m calibrated right always runs right there is no maybe about it.


i'm gonna disagree here, check my garage for my mods and with that setup i went to get a dyno tune and i was running very close to perfect air/fuel ratio and all i did was set my fuel psi at 40 psi. but of course with a dyno tune he played around with my fuel psi and found me more power
 
:notnice: i had ignition problems and could only pull it to 4800 rpm, but on a mustang dyno it made 261@4800, the guy said once i get my ignition sorted out i will see 300RWHP on his mustang dyno. i don't know hwat those numbers work out to on a dynojet


and no it wasn't my mass air meter that was holding me back
 
2000xp8 said:
C&L's suck, i've seen it first hand many times.
If you want to chance running lean on a powerful engine that you have alot of money into go ahead it's your car.
You won't see most of the guy that run low 12's and faster using them. There's a reason for that.
Of course before everyone blows up about this, there is exceptions to the rule, and some cars actually run good with them. But they are inconsistant meters, meaning some cars run good, some don't. A pro m calibrated right always runs right there is no maybe about it.

I must have got the "non suck" model since I never hurt anything with 600+ hp on a stock block with cheap ole Fel Pro's HG's (1101's or whatever they're called)....even while detonating the thing like a dumbass a few times :doh:

Now my buddy used the same meter on practically an identical setup and blew HG's....but I think he didn't have enough fuel pump....or I was very lucky.