removing paint?
- Thread starter 65fastback2+2
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65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Orange97GTVert
New Member
I use paint stripper and a razorblade scraper. Paint it on, let it sit till the old paint bubbles up, then scrape it really good. Sometimes takes 2 applications or more. The last application, use heavy rubber gloves and medium to course steel wool. Then wash it all down with laquer thinner to get all the chemical off and prime.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
For large areas I prefer sanding. Its messy and a bit of work, but IMO not as messy as hosing down the car with stripper and then solvent. Removers like Jasco Premium or Kleen-Strip Aircraft types are sticky and a pain to clean off. Not only that, it burns if you get it on yourself.
Orange97GTVert
New Member
65ShelbyClone said:
I agree, but the paint was so thick on mine. Turns out it had the original plus 4 repaints. I used Tal Strip, it took it down to the original topcoat in one application. Took 2 more to get to bare metal. It is also good for interior door panels where the metal is stamped with a grain pattern, mine were smooth, I thought they had been sanded. Turns out, same thing, they had been repainted numerous times. Its messy, MUST USE GLOVES but effective.
65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
I'll agree that textured surfaces almost require chemical paint removal. Sometimes it actually is easier than wire wheeling or paper(like with aerosol cans, lots of coverage...fast).
Be careful with chems like that though; methyl chloride not only burns your skin, it gets in your bloodstream quickly and can wreck your liver. Great at removing paint, though.
Be careful with chems like that though; methyl chloride not only burns your skin, it gets in your bloodstream quickly and can wreck your liver. Great at removing paint, though.
Hack
15 Year Member
I just finished going to a local seminar on painting with pros from PPG. They do not recommend using chemical strippers. They said that sanding for small areas and media (they recommended plastic bead) blasting for large areas are preferred.
If you must use a chemical stripper, be sure to neutralize it with WATER prior to painting. Lacquer thinner will not neutralize the stripper. Some stripper is likely to be trapped in microscopic pores in the metal. It can come back later and ruin your paint job.
Whatever method you decide to remove paint, start with a soap and water wash, and then use a wax and grease remover.
Good luck with the repair.
If you must use a chemical stripper, be sure to neutralize it with WATER prior to painting. Lacquer thinner will not neutralize the stripper. Some stripper is likely to be trapped in microscopic pores in the metal. It can come back later and ruin your paint job.
Whatever method you decide to remove paint, start with a soap and water wash, and then use a wax and grease remover.
Good luck with the repair.
dennis112
15 Year Member
Hack said:
I have seen this in action on my car. I stripped my car maybe 25 years ago using aircraft stripper. Now the paint that I applied then is "bubbly" where the roof is leaded on. I truely believe that it was caused by the chemical stripper, even though the body was throughly washed. It has only become been noticable in the last 10 years and is getting progressively worse. The rest of the painted areas are still in great shape.
That said, for at home use and if you do not have access to a media blaster nor a good air compressor, chemical stripper is less time consuming way to remove multiple layers of paint. Given those circumstances, I'd do it again that way because sanding it off sucks big-time.
On my last 2 projects, I did it a different way. I chucked up a stiff "cupped" shape wire wheel in my body grinder and went to town. If you are careful and move around alot so you don't generate too much heat (which could warp body panels), this method works well and there is no chemical residue to worry about.
Hack
15 Year Member
They described the bubbly texture similar to what you are saying, but I got the impression they were expecting just a few defects, like 2 or 3 per square foot or something. I believe they were also talking about a much shorter time frame before the defects appear.dennis112 said:
I'm sure chemical strippers can be used successfully, but the people at PPG are dealing with many, many paint jobs every day. I assume that even a small percentage of problems, such as 1 in a hundred or even a thousand, will pop up for them.
well, ive got almost a whole car to do...no access to a media blaster, but i do have access to a good air compressor.....
My formula is as follows, apply a liberal amount of paint stripper on a section measuring about half a meter square, watch a bit of football on your garage TV.
Gently scrape off the bubbled-up paint with a scraper and then use an angle grinder with a twist knot cup brush.
You only have to gently touch the metal to remove any stubborn bits.
Followed properly you should not have to exert to much physical energy.
Entire car should take roughly seven football games and one slab of beer.
Just be sure to put your beer out of the way of any flying paint stripper.
Gently scrape off the bubbled-up paint with a scraper and then use an angle grinder with a twist knot cup brush.
You only have to gently touch the metal to remove any stubborn bits.
Followed properly you should not have to exert to much physical energy.
Entire car should take roughly seven football games and one slab of beer.
Just be sure to put your beer out of the way of any flying paint stripper.
one2gamble
Founding Member
65fastback2+2 said:
I have used a air powered circular sander as well as this cool little nylon/plastic deal that is made to strip paint but be gentle on the metal. It doesnt take that long when a machine is doing it for you. Though you need to watch your speed and presure. To fast and you will heat up the metal and potentially warp it
Hack
15 Year Member
You could get yourself an air powered dual action sander and use 40 or 80 grit sand paper. It will take some time if there's a lot of paint on the car, but this is the method I'd use if for some reason I couldn't go to a media blaster.65fastback2+2 said:
I still think that a media blaster is the way to go, unless you have no money, lots of time and really want to do it yourself. But if you have no money, you shouldn't do this project now. Or are you planning on having it apart for a few years and doing a little at a time as you can afford it? Just that my way would be to try to save up the money first, then do it all. That way you could keep driving the car and enjoying it in the mean time.
Are you going to do the bodywork and paint yourself too? Using a media blaster now can save you some time on body work.
FasterThenU72
New Member
im just wanting to get a few dents out, align the hood and front clip properly, prime, paint and sell it. i dont have money or time for the hobby anymore. and as a college student, i could use the 9k or so i can get outta it more than i can the car.
Hack
15 Year Member
I think you should sell it as is. Gives you more time, gives the buyer the chance to do the paint his way...65fastback2+2 said:
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