Source for another 351C block?

[jes72mustang]

I am playing with the idea of Building a new engine for my 72. I want to find another 351C block to build so I don't have to pull the engine that is running out of my stang. BUild the new one and not lose any drive time. So I am trying to find a decent source for a donor engine. I was thinking Junk yard or maybe machine shop. I have seen a few on ebay, but all too far away to justify paying shipment. I was wondering what other sources are worth considering?

Also If I decide not to go with the whole engine build I want to rebuild the existing heads this winter. They are the original v2 heads. What things do I need to look at? I was thinking of having them ported, a valve job (3 angle), new valves, springs, rockers, push rods, cam and timing chain (or geardrive).
Any advise on this?

Thanks Guys, I have never built an engine before so it would be a great learning experience.

 

[jes72mustang]

PS:

I am going to the Ford Nationals at Carlisle on the 4th of June, I am sure I would be able to find a block there. What is a good price for short Block, long block , etc?

Thanks Again.

 

[shotsy]

Also If I decide not to go with the whole engine build I want to rebuild the existing heads this winter. They are the original v2 heads. What things do I need to look at? I was thinking of having them ported, a valve job (3 angle), new valves, springs, rockers, push rods, cam and timing chain (or geardrive).
Any advise on this?
QUOTE]

At a minimum I'd go with stainless one piece valve, the stocks are notorious for coming apart and trashing motors. I put a set of roller rockers from ford racing on my 2V heads and they work perfectly they mount on the pedistals so you dont have to have the heads machined and can use the stock push rods. Standard three angle valve job with the new valves etc. As far as the springs go I'f your going to change your cam I'd change them as well, but I'd think if you rip the cam out you may as well do it right and have the bottom end freshend up at the same time. You will need to get a set of tall valve covers if you put the roller rockers on as they wont fit under the stock covers even if you bend the oil deflectors out of the way (ask me how I know)

 

[D.Hearne]

Wish you were closer, I've got an excellant std bore, untouched 72 351C shortblock for sale here in Louisiana

 

[jes72mustang]

Wish you were closer, I've got an excellant std bore, untouched 72 351C shortblock for sale here in Louisiana

I wish I were closer too. What kind of price should I expect to pay for a block? Short Block? Long block? I have not really priced them before other than on Ebay, and theey seem to get rather expensive there.

Thanks

 

[D.Hearne]

I'd take $300 for this one. Like I said, it's never been rebuilt or taken apart, no signs of cracks, no water in the crankcase, it jumped time. Unlike most of the 70's motors, which shed the nylon coating on the cam gear, this one was a fluke, all the nylon's there, the chain was the weak link, it's streched to where it was riding up on the cam teeth. Bores have some ridge, but not much, they look like they'll clean up with a 30 overbore easily.

 

[mach1one]

I"d only use the 2v heads if you couldn't find a 4v set. I wish we never dumped money in the open chambered 2vs.

 

[jes72mustang]

Bump

ANyone else have thoughts on a decent price? v2 vs v4?

Thanks

 

[Gud T.B. Blown]

i would also go with the closed chamber 4V heads as well. from what i remember the open chamber design doesn't result in good flame travel which makes it knock easier. and with todays crappy gas that isn't a good thing.

 

[mach1one]

right, OC's ping on any decent compression, chambers are much too big, even if you polish them.

If you stick w/ 2v, you'll probably have a good sounding car that runs mid14s in the 1/4.

You should be able to find a set of 2v's cheap for almost nothing on ebay.

 

[jes72mustang]

Thanks Guys,
I am thinking, at least for now to stick with the v2 heads. If I decide to switch to v4's I have to change the intake and exhaust manifolds correct? I am planning headers down the road and intake manifolds are not too expensive on ebay. I will have to keep looking and planning. What is a good price for a decent 351C block? Is it work checking out junkyards? I am not so concerned about date codes matching the car. I want to at some point build an engine completely and not lose drive time.

Thanks

 

[washMO66]

I have a 390FE free to a good home in the STL area......... in case anyone is interested.....

 

[Gud T.B. Blown]

Thanks Guys,
I am thinking, at least for now to stick with the v2 heads. If I decide to switch to v4's I have to change the intake and exhaust manifolds correct? I am planning headers down the road and intake manifolds are not too expensive on ebay. I will have to keep looking and planning. What is a good price for a decent 351C block? Is it work checking out junkyards? I am not so concerned about date codes matching the car. I want to at some point build an engine completely and not lose drive time.

Thanks

you can use the 4V exhaust manifolds with the 2V heads. the 4V manifold will bolt right up but i will not seal properly because of the port size difference. this is another resource for cleveland parts http://www.network54.com/Forum/215649 most of these guys are hardcore racers but i've seen a few cleveland blocks offered for sale. at a junkyard i wouldn't pay more than $300 for a 2V engine with heads. FYI, the 2 bolt main blocks are just as strong as the 4 bolt main blocks, if you can find one.

 

[grego37]

351C blocks are notorious for being on the thin in the cylinder walls. If you're going to buy a used one make sure it's std. bore , then upon the rebuild bore it to the next size.

Its allways a good idea to have a block sonic tested. This will tell you how thick it is, and how far you can go on the bore.

I've seen some 351C blocks that were too thin at .030" over

 

[mach1one]

I can't speak on how often I heard of people cracking walls on clevelands. But I do know we had a .060 (in retrospect we should have ditched the block). We ran the engine very hard and the only real problem we had was overheating. I think I had a bigger problem than most people bc the walls were so thin the block got/stayed hotter faster. We did work that problem out however.

 

['69Mach1Chick]

Your best chance is at Carlisle. They have plenty of blocks near the swap meet. Last year at all ford nationals they had a '70 parts car with a fully running 351 clev. The whole car and trailer were sold before i even got to check out the car though. I'm not sure how much you will expect to pay for a block, i paid $500 for a 351 clev, runs strong, also came w/ mounts, radiator, fan, bellhousing, etc.

 

[dansfalcon65]

heads I have a set of open chamber 76cc 4v heads

ANyone else have thoughts on a decent price? v2 vs v4?

Thanks

I will sell these heads they need redone they are open chamber 4v 76cc being open chamber lowers the compresion witch means you can run lower actain fuel

 

[dansfalcon65]

block

351C blocks are notorious for being on the thin in the cylinder walls. If you're going to buy a used one make sure it's std. bore , then upon the rebuild bore it to the next size.

Its allways a good idea to have a block sonic tested. This will tell you how thick it is, and how far you can go on the bore.

I've seen some 351C blocks that were too thin at .030" over

I ran my clev. .30 for 4 years and 300 pases at 138mph and drove it to a couple shows befor I drop a valve its all in the way its lubed I ran a line from the sending unite in the frount to the back of the moter the bottem end is the weak link at 7600rpm with 250 nos but if you force feed it it will work:SNSign:

 

[dansfalcon65]

e-bay

 

[commonrail]

For a decent street clev. get a set of Aussie closed chamber 2V heads. They will easily support 350 to 400 hp without leaning on the block too hard.
I would probably stay away from the open 4v heads. There is no Quench, thus you can't run too much timing to them (opens) compared to the closed 4V's. Clevelands like their timing, and timing makes the torque!
The guys who say that you should find an unmolested block for a beginning point are right on. You guys up north though beware of thawed & flawed blocks. How many junk yards in B.F. up North are winterizing those 30 plus year old death row donor cars? Have any block checked thoroughly, if you are going to look at it yourself you can buy some blue spray crack check, it's about 90% conclusive for cracks in cast iron.