I was just sitting here thinking about my next engine lol and started cruising ebay and there is a guy locally that has one posted for dirty cheap. Anyway I was looking at my cam choices. I know I love my magnum hydraulic 280H would I look for the same duration if I went to roller even though the lift is a lot more? Or would I try to match my lift with what I have now with less duration?
roller 302 and cam selection
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65ShelbyClone
Founding Member
Dont shop for a cam based on how close it is to a grind you like; look for one that best matches your engine(I'm sure you know already). Depending on your piston to valve clearance, you may be able to get something with more duration and the same lift since rollers get the valve open and closed faster. In contrast, you may be able to use more lift on the same duration for the same reason.
There are alot of options for 5.0s. FMS E, B, F, and X cams, my Crane is similar to the 280, but its lower on duration while being higher in lift(.512/214* intake, .529/220* exhaust, I had interference on both). I dont know what Crower has, but I'm sure they have a selection.
There are alot of options for 5.0s. FMS E, B, F, and X cams, my Crane is similar to the 280, but its lower on duration while being higher in lift(.512/214* intake, .529/220* exhaust, I had interference on both). I dont know what Crower has, but I'm sure they have a selection.
Stang89LXCPE
New Member
Roller cams can run much more lift and duration because of the fast ramps. if you physically look at a roller cam, you can see how the lobe comes to a "point" compared to the flat tappet. The old school flat tappet cams can't compete with the rollers because they (flat tappets) can't follow the agresive ramps. If you like the 280 comp (230/230 .512 lift)
I'd go with something bigger like a comp XE274HR-12, with 274/282, Lift .555/.565,
or the XE282HR-12 with 282/290, Lift .565/.574.
It will be hard to find a straight pattern cam as most of the are biased towards the exhaust, which is a good thing with SBF heads. All of the Motorsport cams are a straight pattern, but these two comps will be better for you than the motorsport cams
I'd go with something bigger like a comp XE274HR-12, with 274/282, Lift .555/.565,
or the XE282HR-12 with 282/290, Lift .565/.574.
It will be hard to find a straight pattern cam as most of the are biased towards the exhaust, which is a good thing with SBF heads. All of the Motorsport cams are a straight pattern, but these two comps will be better for you than the motorsport cams
washMO66
Founding Member
I like my comp XE274HR, (specs above) with my stroker. But if you like a little more RPM I would consider the XE284. If I keep my current engine I will be doing a cam swap when I get it freshened up.
If I start on a roller engine I'm going to go ground up and do it the way I should have done the one I have. Valve relieved pistons for afr 185s with about 10.5 compression or so. Roller cam, lifters, and rockers of course.
I've only dealt with flat tappets so I don't know what I would want with a roller. I basically want one that is in the same "streetable" catagory as the 280H but more performance out of it.
I've only dealt with flat tappets so I don't know what I would want with a roller. I basically want one that is in the same "streetable" catagory as the 280H but more performance out of it.
washMO66
Founding Member
steel1212 said:
You have to ask. What are you goals for this engine build? Will it be at the track? How often? How much street driving? Are street manners important to you........ etc
Play the devils advocate before you buid something or you won't be pleased with it. Without making modifications to your drivetrain and chassis, the car will be way off.
I think 350HP with a 5 speed in a 65 - 66 is a perfect combo and will provide lots of fun with less risk of breakage.
And if that don't work, 500 to 600 HP small blocks are entertaining as well.
My goal is mid 12s at the track, but very streetable. I don't want a car it takes me an hour to start or keeps dieing at stop lights 
I mean 500 hp would be fun but I think a 300 rwhp car would be just what I need. More would be great but like I said the whole reason to get the roller setup is for me to get more hp than what I have with out losing streetablitly.
I mean 500 hp would be fun but I think a 300 rwhp car would be just what I need. More would be great but like I said the whole reason to get the roller setup is for me to get more hp than what I have with out losing streetablitly.
Stang89LXCPE
New Member
I had a stipped 84 notch (no options) that weighed 3050 with me in it. It had a 93 H.O. motor, Motorsport B303 cam with 1,7 rockers, shorty headers, 650 dp, stealth intake, with a T-5, and 3.73's. It went 12.70's @ 105 launching it at 5K on worn out slicks.
See I would love to do that. To me 12s one a very streetable car is all I need. I mean if I can push it lower and still be streetable then I'm game. I just don't want one of those cars that people call street cars when they just, "drive it around the block" I want to be able to drive it to the track 2 hours away hit 12s drive it back and cruise all night.
We are kind of getting off topic though. is the XE274HR-12, with 274/282, Lift .555/.565 at 0.050? If so that seems ALOT bigger than what I have now for duration. I mean if its a roller cam and I can get away with it then I'm cool with that
We are kind of getting off topic though. is the XE274HR-12, with 274/282, Lift .555/.565 at 0.050? If so that seems ALOT bigger than what I have now for duration. I mean if its a roller cam and I can get away with it then I'm cool with that
1967stang302
Member
I would also say that you should be weary at buying an engine off of ebay, I bought two and it was really bad. The first one, kept my money for almost 3 months without answering my phone calls or delivering anything. The second one took 3 months to deliver too and he was only an hour drive away. That one had untapped bolt holes, rusted through bolt holes, I could go on, lets just say the judge told him he was an idiot to sell that as a drop in and go engine. as for the cam, I wouldn't know, listen to one of these smart guys above me.
washMO66
Founding Member
1967stang302 said:
Agreed, watch your arse on eBay, lots of crooks. But, lots of honest builders selling some good stuff.
Got this one on eBay, but after lots and lots of questions & research. Best engine I have ever had. I got lucky.
Stang89LXCPE
New Member
steel1212 said:
no that is the advertised. here is the link for the specs from Comp. It is 224/232 at .050
comp cam XE274HR-12
A Ford B303 with 1.7 rockers or an F303 is about as close to the 280H as you'll find. Both are very streetable. I've run the B303 with 1.7 rockers in a 302 with ported E7 heads, a dual plane intake and a Holley 650 DP carb. I also ran it later in the same short block with Canfield heads, a Vic Jr. and the same Holley carb. It wasn't nearly as streetable as it was with the E7's and the dual plane.steel1212 said:
The Extreme Energy cams have faster ramps. The only disadvantage to more lift, is the stress it puts on the springs. That 286HR is a bit more cam than you'd want on the street in a 302. Comp's instructions for it include: 5 speed trans with 4.10 or lower gears, lots of compression, aftermarket intake, exhaust and a big stall converter ( if using it with an automatic)
washMO66
Founding Member
steel1212 said:I've got all that
I mean I want to build a roller engine with the below accessories plus afr 185s and run 12s. Which came would be best the 274?
I have no complaints with the XE274HR and the manners are fine on the street. I has a real nice lope to it as well. It will make power up to 6200RPM which is ideal for the street.
I have the AFR185's as well and it is a damn good head. I have some work done to mine (port polish) which helps, but I hear they are good right out of the box.
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