Which springs & shocks? + alignment question...

[Kerpal]

I want to lower my car about 1-1.75" and improve the handling as much as possible while keeping a fairly comfortable ride on 17" wheels. From what I've read on here it looks like the Eibach Pro-Kit would be an ideal choice, but is there anything else I should be looking into? The car is a daily driver & we have some pretty rough roads where I live so I think progressive rate springs would definately be the way to go.

If I went with the Pro Kit (or other spings that aren't extremely low & stiff), do I still need to use aftermarket type shocks/struts? Or could I use a better quality parts store replacement (maybe the higher model Monroe's or something?)?

I was also wondering what changes to the suspension will require getting an alignment... I assume changing anything in the spring/shock/strut assembly, installing C/C plates, or doing a 5 lug swap will definately require it (right?)... but what if I were to replace my balljoints, control arm bushings, steering rack bushings... will I also need an alignment after changing any of those?

I'm essentially wondering what parts I should replace at the same time so I won't need to get the car aligned twice.

 

[nosmatt]

I HIGHLY SUGGEST C/C PLATES!

i have many stangs, lowered em all..... only time i was truly happy, was with c/c plates. worth every penny

also, dont go too high a spring rate, not only will shocks/struts not be able to handle the rate (unless you get high dollar stuff), the ride is pretty harsh (i have run 850lb/in springs before)

i recommend b springs.......they ride alot better than c springs, light years ahead of pro kit springs, and they are cheap, and will last a long time, being they are an oe part for a ford....(dont know what application they are from, but they have a ford part number, and are a factory installed spring on something)

my handling was improved SUBSTANTIALLY!! but, i did the 2300k kit, 97 cobra wheels (from the 10 hole stockers) with nitto 245/45's on em, and new frpp lower control arms. WOW, what a different car....



good luck!

 

[Kerpal]

I was looking into the B springs as well... what kind of shocks & c/c plates are you running?

How do you like the 2300K kit btw? I'd like to go with some kind of Cobra brakes when I go 5-lug, if I can piece together everything and stay within budget...

 

[dcarlson]

If you want the BEST handling, dont go lower than 1.3 inches unless you correct the roll center geometry with the X2 balljoint or re-drilled K-member.

 

[Kerpal]

If you want the BEST handling, dont go lower than 1.3 inches unless you correct the roll center geometry with the X2 balljoint or re-drilled K-member.

According to Eibach's site the Pro-Kit springs lower 1.2"/1"... so that seems pretty ideal... anyone know what the spring rates on them are?

Anyone ever heard of FMS 'F' springs? Their website lists them at 1.2"/1", and they're progressive rate... the fronts being a little stiffer than B springs, and the rears having a wider range (170/310 for the F's vs. 200/300 for the B's). Those look like another option, I've never even heard of F springs though.

 

[90mustangGT]

The past post were really good.

Springs: The lower you go the more issues you are going to run into. C/C plates are a must, you will need them. You are also going to change steering geometry, which is going to increase the angle of the tie rods, so then there is a need for a bump steer kit, some get away with offset rack bushings. Stiffer springs = stiffer ride but doesn't always mean better performance. H&R are really good from what I have heard.

Shocks should match the springs. The best shock is probally the Bilstien by far. Koni double adjustables for the hardcore racer. These are some expensive mofo's. If you want performance and drive, bilstiens are probally the real deal, any other would be a comprimise. KYB's are good performance shocks/struts, the cheapest, and tokico's are a great in the middle shock.

If you really want to make your car handle and ride good, there will be more than just shocks and springs you will need. In fact if you have good shocks and springs now (not blown/sagging) then there are other parts that are waeker than shocks/struts/springs. A mustang, especailly an older one doesn't drive like a RWD car should. The rear flops around. A set of LCA's and UCA's would do wonders for your ride. Add a Panhard (sp) bar, and really tear up the street. Some LCA's like MaximumMotorsports have adjustable spring perches where you can adjust ride hight there, the rear springs are actually perfect for the foxbody unless going to extremes. For the front I would put a set of coil overs up front with a STB on C/C plates and a bump steer kit and I gaurantee that car would handle and ride better than any mustang you ever have driven.

 

[Kerpal]

Well, my stock springs are still in fine shape, but I need shocks... so I might as well upgrade everything at once. I want to lower the car for appearance reasons anyway. I definately want to get better LCA's and a Max Motorsports panhard bar at some point in the future, as well as an STB and maybe a K-member brace (probably MM as well). And full length SFC's will be going on before I do any suspension mods.

Think I'll need a bumpsteer kit if I lower the front 1.2"?

And what would be the benefit of going with coil overs in the front as opposed to the conventional springs I'm looking at, assuming I would just set them at around 1.2" lower than stock and never change the height again? Just more spring options? With the terrible roads we have here I think I'll need to stay with a fairly mild progressive rate spring...

 

[90mustangGT]

And what would be the benefit of going with coil overs in the front as opposed to the conventional springs I'm looking at, assuming I would just set them at around 1.2" lower than stock and never change the height again? Just more spring options? With the terrible roads we have here I think I'll need to stay with a fairly mild progressive rate spring...

Coil overs change suspension geometry. Most conventional springs will come right where you want it and/or are suposed to be. What if you get amumimum heads or any other significant weight reduction, the front end starts rising again. With coil overs it would be an easy adjustment. You might say "I want 1.2" Or 1.5" would be perfect" but until you have the car there you can't be sure. Get coil overs and adjustable perch LCA's as well as the other suspension goodies and try different things.

 

[dcarlson]

Coilovers don't do a d*** thing to change the roll center geometry. The only part of the geometry that really change is the motion ratio of the spring compression. You still don't want to lower the car more than 1.3 inches unless you fix the roll center.

 

[dcarlson]

The reason I keep mentioning how far you can lower the car is because the first post mentions wanting to lower the car up to 1.75 inches.

 

[Kerpal]

I think either the Pro Kit, FMS F springs or something with similar lowering and spring rates will be ideal for my needs...

Any opinions on those springs, and a shock that will ride and handle well with them? Are the Tokico HP's (non adjustable) any good?

 

[SamSnyder]

Must..........have..........CC plates...............................

 

[DemonGT]

i was wondering, with CC plates will the local sears auto center guys know how to adjust them??

 

[dcarlson]

i was wondering, with CC plates will the local sears auto center guys know how to adjust them??

That really depends on the store youo go to and the individual technician working on your car.

Some will just adjust them to factory specs, completely forfeiting the performance gain you could have gotten by increasing the caster and tuning the camber to your driving habits. The good shops will set it to the specs you ask for. Of course that assumes you know the specs you want.

 

[SamSnyder]

Yes, they'll know how to do it at Sears. In fact, they should appreciate the ease it gives them. But whether they'll do it right is another question.

 

[88GTCobra]

I have the Eibach Pro Kit along with Bilstein shocks and struts. The handling is awsome. I recommend this combo. Just my 2 cents.