weird problem, expert opinions?

Scott_B

"1 Arm Wonder! "
Founding Member
Oct 27, 1998
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NS Canada!
Ok, just got my car on the road. had it out for a few drives, everything was great. So one day last week im on the highway, and i think i smell coolent. So i reach the city and i see steam, and the temp creeps up to 200. So i pull over. Turns out the hose to the EGR tore and sprayed coolent over everything.

So i get the hose fixed. Start the car and drive 15min to my friends. great no probs. We deciede to grab a bite and hope in my car. i give it a lil gas and it starts poping through the exhaust. so we turn around and head home. about an hour later i try another test drive. poped once, then drove fine!

Next day, i head out, about 20sec into my drive it starts poping again. feels like it lost a ton of power. does this for abour 30sec to a minute, then drives fine for the rest of the drive (1hr) i leave again, car drives fine. I stop for gas, when i leave, drives poor again.

Thing is its never for more then a few minutes. and you can feel the car act normal again. like if you give it steady throttle, it suddenly feels like the throttle increases. And the car drives normal. lots of power and such.

I thought maybe its just when the cars cold, but stopping for gas when hot, and happening kills that theroy. It never did this before the coolent spill. So i though maybe my maf or optimizer got wet or something?? So i cleaned the maf, added dielectric grease to all the connections. no help. and if it was the maf or optimizer, why does it only do it for a few minutes then return to normal?

Im gonna replace my 02 sensors tomorrow, and try a stock maf meter, just to see, then a friends C&L to rule out the optimizer.

any other suggestions? poping makes me think lean, but again, why does it only do it for a few moments, then drive normal? ECU problem maybe? Cant be mechanical i think..has to be a sensor or electric.

my mods are listed here: http://www.accesswave.ca/~sc0tt/page2.htm

sorry its so long, dont want to leave anything out.

thanks guys
 
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Grrr tuff one.And also i dont consider myself an expert. Are you losing coolant? that would indicate maybe head gasket leak which would cause power loss. Did your distributor get wet/ damaged? If it was an egr hose is check the gaskets that connect to the throttle body for leakage. And ppl ask "why get rid of the EGR?" this is precisely the reason I blocked mine off. Good luck there scott
 
maybe u gots some blowby? If oil is in the cylinder it will cause crappy performance untill it burns off then it drives well. Just a thought. Can someone else chime in and help a fella out?

LOL what the hell is a faleen thats like my stang "failing"
 
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.