what to do to get 370HP

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Flowmaster Exhuast is magical now? Im guessing you are speaking of a muffler so I will tell ya that it will do no good at all.
A "Green Filter" will do very little and the tune is worth 13 or so HP.

You are looking @ about 320HP at the crank. Get a CAI kit instead of a drop in filter. C&L or JLT.

-Dan
 
A true CAI and a 93 Octane tune will get your 0-60 times under 5 seconds. Underdrive pullies and 4.10 gears will be good mods as well. Long tube header and offroad x-pipe will get you roughly 20 more hp, but just axlebacks do close to nothing besides tune the exhaust note to your liking.
 
matt15 said:
I was thinking SCT tune flowmaster exhuast and a green filter. what woudl that put me at for HP and RWHP that and 4.10 gearing what do u think the 0-60 tiem would be and what abotu the 1/4 mile?
370bhp is certainly possible but it will probably take every bolt on out there. Add a cam and it should exceed it quite well.

However 340-50bhp is probably a more sensible target for the usual bolt ons.

With a cam and without spending silly money 390bhp is probably about your lot.

More is certainly possible but it will be costing a lot more and at the detriment to every day usability.

If you want power FI really is the only sensible option 400bhp should be easy, even 400rwhp should be no bother.
 
I have just about every bolt on available for my car and I gained approximately 70 horsepower at the crank...of course this is on an old school 5.0 but I just thought that that would give you a reference point...to get 370 you will need a lot more than what you are talking...intake, full off road exhaust, cai, and a tune should just about get you there...
 
I'm heading down the "every bolt on available" (except SC) path like 302fordracer - CAI, long tube headers, h-pipe, an electric water pump, underdrive crank pulley, throttle body, charge motion plates, and some aftermarket idler pulleys, along with a custom dyno tune and some 4.10 gears. Should be 70-75 hp over stock once it's all installed.

I'm just waiting for the plates and throttle body to show up, though I'm not holding my breath on the TB, getting later every time I hear about it.

Once everything is on, I'll post the dyno graph for everyone's amusement.
 
Not to be a smartass but, if you go the "every available bolt-on" route, have you not just about spent as much as a supercharger? I understand you can easily make 370HP with a stock car fed by a non-aftercooled Vortec. I'd rather go that route. JMO
 
jlisle01 said:
Not to be a smartass but, if you go the "every available bolt-on" route, have you not just about spent as much as a supercharger? I understand you can easily make 370HP with a stock car fed by a non-aftercooled Vortec. I'd rather go that route. JMO

I agree with you, but some of us are die hard N/A fans. Also I can nickle and dime the wife for bolt ons. Getting a lump some of 5K would take a miracle! So for me its all about baby steps LOL!
 
plus many of us bolt on guys just arent ready to SC yet (YET). and things like long tubes and 4.10s will make huge gains when SC is added. (and we can most likely sell off UD pullies, intake, etc for a decent amount, and put it toward a good dyno tune for the SC)

its always nice to wait for products to hit the market and see how they react on peoples cars before splurging too much. i WANT a kenne bell, but its not out, and if it were id like to see how well motors are holding up to it and if there are any defects/recalls on it.
 
Pretty much what Meat496 and stkdidy said. I want to see what I can do while staying NA and I want to see how long the bottom ends and transmissions last at SC levels of hp and boost.

I also don't want to add the drag and associated extra wear from an SC if I can get the kind of hp I want without it. I personally would feel safer with a built-up bottom end if I'm going to run really big hp, and that adds quite a few extra dollars to the SC price tag for me.

As stkdidy mentioned, most of the mods I'm adding will just contribute that much more hp when/if I go forged internals, SC, and maybe beefier transmission later.
 
Not to rain on anybody's parade but sorry to say bolt-ons will not get you close to 370 rwhp unless you count a supercharger as a bolt on. :shrug: Look at the 5.0 Cammer rated at 400 hp, you think that is simply a SOHC 4.6 3v with bolt ons? It's a highly pumped up 4 valve race engine with a tad bit more displacement. Now if the GTs came with a 5.4 V8 then you'd have decent shot of approaching 400 hp more easily N/A.
 
Nobody has said anything about 370 rwhp, it's been crank discussion from the start. What I said was, "Should be 70-75 hp over stock." That would be 370-375 crank hp with all bolt ons available.
 
CatmanJJ said:
Not to rain on anybody's parade but sorry to say bolt-ons will not get you close to 370 rwhp unless you count a supercharger as a bolt on. :shrug: Look at the 5.0 Cammer rated at 400 hp, you think that is simply a SOHC 4.6 3v with bolt ons? It's a highly pumped up 4 valve race engine with a tad bit more displacement. Now if the GTs came with a 5.4 V8 then you'd have decent shot of approaching 400 hp more easily N/A.
I agree.

I love n/a but the 4.6 just isn't the motor to make big HP that way. the 3v unit should produce more than the 2v SOHC but still lag behind the non s/c 4v DOHC Cobra's. For most people 340-350bhp is going to be the limit IMO.
 
delurker said:
Pretty much what Meat496 and stkdidy said. I want to see what I can do while staying NA and I want to see how long the bottom ends and transmissions last at SC levels of hp and boost.

I also don't want to add the drag and associated extra wear from an SC if I can get the kind of hp I want without it. I personally would feel safer with a built-up bottom end if I'm going to run really big hp, and that adds quite a few extra dollars to the SC price tag for me.

As stkdidy mentioned, most of the mods I'm adding will just contribute that much more hp when/if I go forged internals, SC, and maybe beefier transmission later.


I don't know. I guess everyones situation and goals are different. 4.10's would kind of push the envelope for me as a working automobile since I do so much highway driving and to me the supercharger, with it's stock till you really push it characteristics, just makes more sence. As for the payment plan- does anyone who can afford a $30,000 car and then consider tinkering with it not have a credit card? The basic vortec (non-aftercooled) is out and on sale for less than 4K. That would be more than enough for 370HP and would keep the cars driveability near stock.
 
Let me say this again a little differently. I'm not going to run a supercharger with this engine without forged internals, certainly not until some people install them and put some real miles on without having issues related to the additional strain. I sure as hell am not going to put a non-intercooled SC on mine ever.

The 4.10's are perfect for me, because I do most of my driving in and around town.
 
matt15 said:
I was thinking SCT tune flowmaster exhuast and a green filter. what woudl that put me at for HP and RWHP that and 4.10 gearing what do u think the 0-60 tiem would be and what abotu the 1/4 mile?

delurker said:
Nobody has said anything about 370 rwhp, it's been crank discussion from the start. What I said was, "Should be 70-75 hp over stock." That would be 370-375 crank hp with all bolt ons available.


My mistake. I was just thinking more along the lines of rwhp since that's what actually makes it to the pavement. But they're just numbers anyway to get an idea, they don't tell the entire story.

:shrug:
 
delurker said:
I agree - the only hp and torque numbers that are really important are the ones measured where the rubber meets the road.
I don't see it like that. I mean you could have a really heavy car with MASSIVE RWHP but still be slower than a lightweight car with far less RWHP.

Power to weight and torque to weight ratio's are usually a more accurate guide. As only gearing, aerodynamics and power delivery willthen affect the cars ability.


The 05 GT weighs in at about 1650kg and has 300bhp/320lb ft

181.8bhp/ton
193.9lb ft/ton

As a rule of thub 200bhp/ton is where many people consider 'high performance cars' to start at. As you can see the 05 GT is not far off, especially with its very generous amount of torque.

Statistically its about right too

0-60 circa 5.5 seconds (maybe a little quicker with a good hook up)
0-100 circa 13.5 seconds
Top speed circa 150mph

All respectable times although not in supercar league.

To show as a comparsion the TVR T350 only has 350bhp/290lb ft from a 3.6 n/a straight 6
So a bit more HP than the GT but less torque. RWHP numbers would be fairly similar with the advantage going to the TVR but only by 50bhp MAX.

But the TVR only wieghs 1060kg (2337lb) giving it
330.2bhp/ton
273.4lb ft/ton


Giving it 148.4bhp advantage in real terms.

It shows upp in the stats too:
0-60 4.4 seconds
0-100 9.5 seconds
Tops speed 175mph+


A car like this will keep any stock 03 Cobra honest and even given some of the mod'd ones a run for their money.

So the key to making the 05 faster is to improve its power to weight ratio, which can be done by two means.

1. Increase bhp
2. Loose weight

The 05 GT has a great chassis and suspension that works with a bit of sensible buying and a few $$$'s there's no reason it can't shake it with the best of the best.

As my user name suggests, any car with 300bhp/ton or more is a serious performance machine.

And it is my goal and personal aim to have a car with such power. If its the 05 GT I buy then my target bhp will need to be 495bhp at the engine or about 440-450rwhp. So with the aid of a blower its cetainly a possibility.