time slip & next mod advice please!

Good, work on traction. I belive now that working on traction should be done until 1.6 60's are accomplished on slicks or 1.7-1.8 on drag radials before working on power. A practial rule is that for every .1 off the 60ft will rusult in .2 on the ET.

Anyone running 17" wheels, even with DR's at the track is kind of wasting thier time IMO. I was pulling 1.8's with bone stock suspension with only the swaybar removed and KYB struts/shocks and MM subframes. Then I went full drag suspension: GMS front drag coil overs, HPM UCA and LCA (megabites), Lakewood 90/10 and 50/50, Moroso rear springs. My 60's got worse, turned out to be a RR spin bias, so I rebuilt the traction-loc. Now I was pulling consistant 1.8's, lower 1.8's but nothing that much better. My MPH went up though. I was running 275/40R17 Nitto DR's on Cobra R's 17x9. Launching no higher than 1800 without spinning out. The 17's are gone in favor for Welds.
 
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90mustangGT said:
Anyone running 17" wheels, even with DR's at the track is kind of wasting thier time IMO.

I gotta disagree with you there. Even with regular radials, every trip to the track can be benificial.

Also, for most of us that dont live close to the track...and dont trailor the car in...17" drag radials are practical. You get daily drivability along with much better traction than a regular radial on the road and track.
 
Daniel50 said:
the newer the drag radial the stickier it is
And that my friend is very misleading info. Name me the last time you saw Big Daddy run 7s on Drag Radials that are NEW... I don't think so. They will hook the best when they are bald. I know, I had them, and the less tread there was, the better they hooked. Look at Big Daddy's drag radials... they are almost BALD. It's because they hook better that way. :nice:
 
Also, I ran 275/60/15 BFG drag radials on my 83... I could launch off at 6K and spray a 150 shot directly off the line and they would NEVER break loose. Try lowering the PSI. I had the best luck with 13 psi.
 
millhouse said:
I gotta disagree with you there. Even with regular radials, every trip to the track can be benificial.

Also, for most of us that dont live close to the track...and dont trailor the car in...17" drag radials are practical. You get daily drivability along with much better traction than a regular radial on the road and track.

Very understandable. What I am saying is that if your really going for ET's, then it is a serous setback. A full drag car with 17's doesn't really make sence.
 
slowhatch82 said:
alright, great info. suspension work it is. tires are 275/50/15's on welds, i think they were around 20 psi, maybe 18, cant remember. thanks again guys.

So basically, that's a good size tire and a sticky enough to boot, you should with a little tweaking hook 1.7's easy. Good luck.
 
reply to darth

Reply to darth yes i said 80 lbs, battery weighs about 40 lbs right? So if you remove that 40 lbs from the front of the car and add that 40 lbs to the rear of the car(where you need weight) than its called weight distribution, 40+40=80lbs, if you dont know what your talking about dont reply.