Solid Roller vs. Hydraulic Lifters?

[faultlessfocus]

Okay, over at D.S.S Racing's site, they offer lifters in both solid roller and hydraulic. What is the difference between the two and what do you all prefer? This would be going in a 347 Stroker, then into a 67/68 FB...Any suggestions? I am really sorry if this is obvious...but how can you tell a 302 is a "roller motor" or not just by looking at it??

 

[iskwezm]

The only way to tell a roller motor is to see the lifters,you can have a roller block and use hydraulic flat tappet cam.Everybody always says a solid cam has to be adjusted a lot,but i heard thats only if things are wearing.Each cam has its own drawbacks and advantages.I personally couldnt afford the roller cam at the time,but now have spent almost as much as the initial cost was.But if i was to do it again,roller is the way to go.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

From the outside, a roller block will most likely have a casting number starting with E5, E6, E7, E8, E9, F0, F1, etc. It will have to be out of a Lincoln Mark VII LSC or Mustang 5.0. To save work and money, I would stay with a hydraulic roller. If you go solid, you'll need upgraded valvesprings and an expensive cam.

I agree with the adjustment part; solids should only occasionally need adjustment unless a part is going south fast.

 

[faultlessfocus]

Okay, would a 1990 302 out of an f-150 be a good motor to rip apart and build up to drop in a 67/68FB??

 

[65ShelbyClone]

It may be a roller capable block, but only H.O.s have factory roller cams.

 

[faultlessfocus]

The motor has 400,000 miles on it. What I was going to do was just tear it down, and replace everything and bore it out, then pop the 347 stroker kit in it. Would the block work? I mean, the only thing I'm using is the block really.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

You can use any 289 or 302 block for a 347 as long as it hast been bored already. Some earlier non-roler blocks can go .060, but laters usually can only take .030. With 400k on the clock(is that for real?), it will definitely need a .030 bore.

Also, if you find a roller block that has flat tappet valvetrain(like low-po truck engines), you can tell its a roller by the two small bosses in the lifter valey with a threaded hole in each. Also there is a XXX cast into the valley, hence the name "porno block" if you've ever heard the expression before.

 

[faultlessfocus]

Yep, 400,000 still runs like a charm! lol. So, I can make some serious power out of this 302 after it's bored .030 or .040 over and stroked? Any advantages in going with say a 1993 302 from a GT as opposed to this one? I mean...the heads, cam, almost everything are leaving anyway...so all I'm comparing is the BLOCK..

 

[65ShelbyClone]

So, I can make some serious power out of this 302 after it's bored .030 or .040 over and stroked? Any advantages in going with say a 1993 302 from a GT as opposed to this one? I mean...the heads, cam, almost everything are leaving anyway...so all I'm comparing is the BLOCK..

Yeah, with decent induction you can make enough power to split the block without a power adder.

Also, roller block = roller block. They are all the same.

 

[Bullitt]

don't go with a flat tappet cam. there are a lot of advantages to a roller lifter like better low end torque, faster ramp up rate, etc. spend the money and go roller.

now solid vs hydraulic is another story entirely. if you aren't revving past like 6.5k, don't both with solid.

as far as lifters go, i think you'll be perfectly happy with Ford OEM replacement roller lifters for a 5.0. i run a set in my 67 and don't have any problem turning 6500 without valve float (with stock TW valve springs).

 

[faultlessfocus]

Okay, great...sounds like I need to rip this 302 down and get it to a machine shop to be bored