Ignition switch
- Thread starter Mark89coupe
- Start date
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There is a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. They overheat and sometimes catch fire.
Copy down you VIN number and call the Ford dealer nearest you. Tell them you want to see if the ignition switch recall for Fords & Mustangs was done on your car. They will ask for the VIN number & check it against the master database. If it isn't in the datbase, then you can schedule an appointment to have the switch replaced for free. The TSB is #95S28, and don't let them tell you that they don't do that anymore...
If you can't get it done for free, the switch is less than $15. You need some tamper proof torx bits to change it, the set is less than $10. Total labor time is less than 1 hour if the wiring isn't heat damaged.
Copy down you VIN number and call the Ford dealer nearest you. Tell them you want to see if the ignition switch recall for Fords & Mustangs was done on your car. They will ask for the VIN number & check it against the master database. If it isn't in the datbase, then you can schedule an appointment to have the switch replaced for free. The TSB is #95S28, and don't let them tell you that they don't do that anymore...
If you can't get it done for free, the switch is less than $15. You need some tamper proof torx bits to change it, the set is less than $10. Total labor time is less than 1 hour if the wiring isn't heat damaged.
runningmole
Founding Member
Mark89coupe said:
Yes. On the ignition solenoid on the drivers side (under hood). There are 2 "bolts" w/ wires. Then above them in them in the middle is a small red wire w/ a black boot.
First make sure your car is in nuetral, and the key is on, so the fuel pump has power. Then take something metal (I use a key) and touch the rear "bolt" (rear as in closest to rear of car) to the little tab that you pulled the black boot off of. The engine will crank and start. It WON'T shock you. I've been starting my car like this for the past few months....too lazy to fix.
This would work if the only aspect of the ignition switch which was lost was the starter interlock circuit. Otherwise, if the ignition is non-operation, the car will only crank (no start).runningmole said:
If I had issues, I would replace the switch ASAP. Even when in 'new' condition there were issues. I would not drive one (fire hazard) with an issue at hand. Plus it is so cheap.
One can ask the counter guy at the parts store for a Tamperproof torx bit and he should know what you want. Someone in here has posted the size, but I dont recall it. A search would reveal the size so only one bit is needed to be purchased.
Good luck.
runningmole
Founding Member
HISSIN50 said:
I've already replaced the switch. Then it went out again. I haven't have the time to pull the dash to see if there is something happening under there. One of the wires (white w/ pink stripe) melted a bit under the steering column.
I know what I told him may not work, but it's worth a try. If you're stranded somewhere, you usually will try anything just to make it home (assuming you can't get in touch w/ a tow service)
I get what you mean - you do what it takes to get going. I just did not want him to think this was a cure for a bad ignition switch (most of the time, I bet the ignition side of the switch, rather than the starter interlock circuit, is what goes south).runningmole said:
I dont think we even know what aspect of the switch has failed.
runningmole
Founding Member
HISSIN50 said:I get what you mean - you do what it takes to get going. I just did not want him to think this was a cure for a bad ignition switch (most of the time, I bet the ignition side of the switch, rather than the starter interlock circuit, is what goes south).
I dont think we even know what aspect of the switch has failed.
True that amigo
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