Building a forged motor

cavepony

New Member
Apr 10, 2005
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Jupiter
My goal is to try to get all the info in one place. If someone has a link, please post it. :)

My most likely course to get blown will be the HP twin turbo kit. After evaluating all the choices I can get 400-420 hp on the stock motor for only sightly more than it would cost me with any SC. If you factor in the point that the HP kit comes with a tubular front end and coil over kit, cc plates etc, it is the best deal for the dollar. It is still more money than I anticipated though. Everything is adding up though so I will do the install myself.

The best part is that the HP kit has a lot of room for growth, sooooo....

I would like to at least forge the bottom end of my motor before I install the turbo. That would make it possible to shoot for the 500-600 hp club without having to take it all apart again. I have no desire for a stroker motor, not worth it for my application.

I think my least expensive way to do it will be to buy a forged rotating assembly plus a block. It seems that the most popular forged bottom end is .20 over, so I will have the block I purchase machined. Is it worth it? Why not put the stock diameter pistons in the stock block?

How much am I going to gain from .020 over?

It' been 20 years since I overhauled a motor so I am not exactly looking forward to it, but it seems to be the most cost effective way to go.

If I can get a good enough deal on the bottom end and do the work myself, I might be able to afford a cam. :D

Any suggestions?
 
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Installing the turbo kit yourself can be done....but you will still be very limited on drivability until you get it dyno'd. Factor that into the price.

The stroker kit isnt that impressive when used on an otherwise stock car, but with the TT kit, you will see much better numbers then you would normally.

Since your really looking into good horsepower, another mod (although expensive) that will see great numbers with FI is the P51 intake. Consider it.

This is talking like you have no budget, even though you do, so take these as suggestions rather then must-dos.
 
Just buy a forged shortblock from Tim at Modular Powerhouse ( www.modularpowerhouse.com ). Time you buy the forged internals and a .020 over block, you will have spent most of the money anyway. You need to be sure about the power adder before you order a shortblock because it will affect which pistons you go with.
 
jimfitzgerald said:
Just buy a forged shortblock from Tim at Modular Powerhouse ( www.modularpowerhouse.com ). Time you buy the forged internals and a .020 over block, you will have spent most of the money anyway. You need to be sure about the power adder before you order a shortblock because it will affect which pistons you go with.


I have been reading about your ride, aren't you a little biased. :)

Yeah that is the most likely route.

His SB is 3350 plus shipping and I have heard nothing but good things about it.

The HP TT is 6400 stage 1 plus shipping or 8200 installed and tuned by Tim.

That is lot of money.

Well worth it for the car you end up with, but I am still having a little trouble swallowing those numbers. :)
 
cavepony said:
I have been reading about your ride, aren't you a little biased. :)

Yeah that is the most likely route.

His SB is 3350 plus shipping and I have heard nothing but good things about it.

The HP TT is 6400 stage 1 plus shipping or 8200 installed and tuned by Tim.

That is lot of money.

Well worth it for the car you end up with, but I am still having a little trouble swallowing those numbers. :)
Where else can you get 700 rwhp, 600 rwtq with a warranty?
 
I have been contemplating this also (but I want a KB blower). The best deal I can find on a rotating assembly is at Livernois. They have a 5.0 rotataing assembly for sale and it costs about $1800 fully balenced. It's a 3.75" steel crank, forged Manley H-beams, forged Mahle pistons (.020" I think), rings, bearings, ect....

I thought I could save money buy finding the parts individually so I spent about a week lookign up parts and puttign combos together and in the end it was only like $20-$50 more for the ballenced 5.0 kit and my parts never included a 3.75 crank. So you get the added displacement for next to nothing.
 
cavepony said:
I have been reading about your ride, aren't you a little biased. :)

Yeah that is the most likely route.

His SB is 3350 plus shipping and I have heard nothing but good things about it.

The HP TT is 6400 stage 1 plus shipping or 8200 installed and tuned by Tim.

That is lot of money.

Well worth it for the car you end up with, but I am still having a little trouble swallowing those numbers. :)

it's a lot of money for a lot of hp, if you do it yourself and have tuning issues, who is reponsible. The guys at MPH do it and stand behind it. There is something to be said for that, how much is it worth if you save a couple of thousand and it doesn't perform as well as it could?