1800 to spend... cant decide!!!

[Aliate X]

Also consider if you dont have another car, when you break your stock trans it sucks a lot. I busted mine a few days ago, TKO 600 in the mail.

After looking at your mods, with the nitrous and h/c/i your going to toast your trans. I toasted mine on a stock motor by powershifting.

 

[Daniel50]

i dont power shift. but i do shift quick. any chance my t-5 will stand up to a h/c/i for a while taking it easy and to the track once a month?

 

[STANGateURlilSS]

my two cents

number 3.. you add the heads and cam and everything else.. you won't hook.. hook first then go fast.. its funny to me how people sometimes forget that you can make it go fast.. but can you stop it or can it handle the power.. ie suspension.. brakes.. subframes.. etc..

 

[90mustangGT]

Suspension does make a huge difference, I agree by 100%, even thought I voted for option 1. If you just like to feel the car pull, option 1 is the choice, but when racing, especailly a short race, suspension can really make a difference.

You need to find a balance. Why not a little of each option? Different components, but I would put everything on the line towards whipping any car with all of one option 1, 2, or 3, even option 4.

Option 5:

Thumper E7's (600)
TMOSS Lower intake (130)
Timing Chain (40) (stock cam)
Gaskets (100)
65mm TB (200)
73mm C&L (130)
Drag radials (300)
UCA and LCA's (300)
Total $1800

 

[92BlackGT]

#3....gotta stiffen up the chassis to handle the power and protect the car.

 

[slowhatch82]

#4...supercharger

 

[88 Fox GT]

Only one that's going to give you more power...#1.

The other options are not going to give you more power but make you ready for the more power that you WON'T have!

 

[Daniel50]

sound like we got an overwhelming vote for number 3....

 

[cleanLX]

for good reason.

I would do #3 as well.

 

[mondos90lx]

#3 with fries and a sprite

 

[Daniel50]

just scared ill save the money up and put it down on a ls1 or gto! lol

 

[2000xp8]

Start with one, and then go in order as you break the rest of the stuff. Just don't think you are going to get option 1 done with $1800, little odds and ends add up, such as a balancer if yours is original, new water pump.

And if this is a DD or a car that sees alot of use, don't use the c clip eliminater setup, it will leak rear fluid.

#3 will help alot at the track, but if that's not the place the car see's most of it's action, you'll still be gettin your butt whooped on the street.

 

[90mustangGT]

And if this is a DD or a car that sees alot of use, don't use the c clip eliminater setup, it will leak rear fluid.

Why??? It shouldn't. Many newer vehicles come with non C-clip axels and don't have any more issues than C-clip setups.

 

[Daniel50]

the car doesnt see an overhwelming amount of track use. around once a month. but there is a huge group of guys here that keeps modding our cars and racing each other. thats where it sees most its action

 

[2000xp8]

Why??? It shouldn't. Many newer vehicles come with non C-clip axels and don't have any more issues than C-clip setups.

You can't compare a new car's rear. A new cars rear is designed to not use c clips, in our case we are converting. Trust me, my buddy owns a mustang shop, c clip eliminators leak out the axle tubes. If you seen how they go on, you'd understand why.

 

[giddyup306]

Option 5.

Give the money to me and I'll give you a nice ported intake.












Seriously though I vote for n20.