I'm currently considering a 514 crate motor for my 87 notch. My first choice was a 408. I'm continually told a big block could hinder the performance due to weight issues. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Big Blocks and Coupes
- Thread starter GT Trooper
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ExplodingGopher
New Member
It just feels like a fat kid is sitting on your hood when you stop, seriously. its only a 260lb difference between a 302 and an iron headed 460. The hp and tq make up for it. I would've went with a 514 but couldn't afford an extra $1000 for it, when something goes in my motor, it'll be a 545 
ExplodingGopher
New Member
as long as i give it no more than 1/3 throttle it gets traction. if i had some drag radials on the back, which is my next big thing, then it would be a different story.
I was often considering a similar project, but when you can get a 408 to over 500 hp easily or just get a built 306 with a power adder, you'll be making as much if not more power than a big block. I mean they're a cool concept and all, I'm just not sure if I see the point.
On another note, you can also get an aluminum 460 crate engine from Ford... nice power and the weight difference is negligable from a 5L.
On another note, you can also get an aluminum 460 crate engine from Ford... nice power and the weight difference is negligable from a 5L.
So yea if you build a nice little 306 with a power adder you will dave as much power as a big block done a little over stock, BUT what if you take a big block with a good strong build that is capable of pump gas and a 3 to 400 shot of laughing gas or a pure motor with about 700+ hp, what say you then?
I say go for the bb and if you dont mind doing a little cutting , put in some mini tubbs.
Just my .02
Nate
I say go for the bb and if you dont mind doing a little cutting , put in some mini tubbs.
Just my .02
Nate
emeraldcoupe said:i used ford mounts and pro mustang headers, fit perfect. stay away from the hooker 6224 swap headers, they fit like ****. here's an old pic
Did you have to go with a heavier duty front spring? Did you have to beat on the body to get the headers/transmission to fit properly? Is it much of a problem getting to plugs?
no cutting,welding,beating,etc. all bolt in like it's meant to be there. plug access is a snap. people who say you have to beat the tunnel for a c-6 are wrong, fits perfect. the only things close with the c-6 are the top bellhousing bolts(engine/trans MUST go in together) and the linkage is a little tight but you can get to it no prob. i used the stock 5.0 tbird springs and it sat fine. leave the sway bar on and it handles pretty decent, not a coner carver but good. also used a manual rack and 225-55-16's up front and it was easy to steer. made a killer street car, never overheated, 180 all day. stangs,vettes,and the gm twins got suprised by the bird one more than one occasion
