Well after finally gathering all the parts and pieces, I was able to convert my '91 Hatch to a 5-lug bolt pattern. I took the low rent way out (sorta) and did it using Ranger front rotors instead of swapping 5.0 Fox or SN95 parts. I purchased new axles instead of buying junkyard stuff just for peace of mind.
Here's what I discovered during the swap. Maybe it will help someone else contemplating the same swap.
Front Rotors:
The rotors work fine. They're 1/2" bigger in diameter, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. I'm going to look at some different brake pads and calipers to see if I can't take advantage of the extra rotor surface area. I'll post more when I know more.
All the homework I did regarding the bearings told me if you used all of the Mustang spec'd bearinges and races you'd be fine. Apparently that is only half true. While trying to install the Mustang inner race into the Ranger rotor I discovered it to be too big on the O.D. Not by much, but enough to keep you from driving it into the rotor. The Ranger race works but the Mustang bearing does not sit fully into the race. I checked to make sure the taper was the same and it is. It all went together fine and while I've only driven it about 20 miles so far, it seems to be good.
Rear Axle:
I'd read somewhere that there was a problem removing the center pin from the diff on 7.5's with 3.73 gears. It's true the pin won't come out since it hits the ring gear teeth, but its not an issue for removing the axles. The pin is notched to allow the axles to be pushed in and the c-clip removed. Once you do the driver's side axle, just rotate the pin 180 degrees so the notch favors the remaining axle and you're all set. I also used the lock bolt to hold the pin in place while I removed and installed the axles. Once the lock bolt is back out to allow the pin to move, just push the pin up where you need it and push the lock bolt back in place. The pin will rest on top of the bolt and free up a hand. Maybe you already know this. Oh well, at least there'll be one more post on it to show up in a search.
For the most part, the swap went well. I've got some clearance issues up front mainly due to the steamroller sized tires I picked up for it. 245/50-16's are a bit too wide for the front. I had to use Mr. Gasket 5/16" spacers to get them to clear the strut enough to drive it home. It took two of us 6hrs to complete the swap from the moment the jack and stands went under the car to when we pulled the jack and stands back out, this includes chasing parts (spacers) and tools(slide hammer for axle bearing removal) and eating lunch. Not bad if you ask me.
I'll post pics of my beater with its new shoes tomorrow when I get a chance.
Here's what I discovered during the swap. Maybe it will help someone else contemplating the same swap.
Front Rotors:
The rotors work fine. They're 1/2" bigger in diameter, but it doesn't seem to be a problem. I'm going to look at some different brake pads and calipers to see if I can't take advantage of the extra rotor surface area. I'll post more when I know more.
All the homework I did regarding the bearings told me if you used all of the Mustang spec'd bearinges and races you'd be fine. Apparently that is only half true. While trying to install the Mustang inner race into the Ranger rotor I discovered it to be too big on the O.D. Not by much, but enough to keep you from driving it into the rotor. The Ranger race works but the Mustang bearing does not sit fully into the race. I checked to make sure the taper was the same and it is. It all went together fine and while I've only driven it about 20 miles so far, it seems to be good.
Rear Axle:
I'd read somewhere that there was a problem removing the center pin from the diff on 7.5's with 3.73 gears. It's true the pin won't come out since it hits the ring gear teeth, but its not an issue for removing the axles. The pin is notched to allow the axles to be pushed in and the c-clip removed. Once you do the driver's side axle, just rotate the pin 180 degrees so the notch favors the remaining axle and you're all set. I also used the lock bolt to hold the pin in place while I removed and installed the axles. Once the lock bolt is back out to allow the pin to move, just push the pin up where you need it and push the lock bolt back in place. The pin will rest on top of the bolt and free up a hand. Maybe you already know this. Oh well, at least there'll be one more post on it to show up in a search.
For the most part, the swap went well. I've got some clearance issues up front mainly due to the steamroller sized tires I picked up for it. 245/50-16's are a bit too wide for the front. I had to use Mr. Gasket 5/16" spacers to get them to clear the strut enough to drive it home. It took two of us 6hrs to complete the swap from the moment the jack and stands went under the car to when we pulled the jack and stands back out, this includes chasing parts (spacers) and tools(slide hammer for axle bearing removal) and eating lunch. Not bad if you ask me.
I'll post pics of my beater with its new shoes tomorrow when I get a chance.
