AMP meter, voltage regulator problem

[1970impala]

Hi everyone, been really, really busy in the office but my cobra got stuck this past weekend. Darn voltage regulator plug broke a tab and the wire was not making a connection. I guess vibration or something knocked it out. I had cut one off from a wiring harness from ebay I had in storage to fix it, but if anyone has another, I'd appreciate it.

also, the darn amp meter didn't read a damn thing. no up, down, it just sat there. after fixing the plug when i got home (finally), i noticed when i turn on the headlights, it budges a fraction and returns to the center position...so it very barely, but does move.

What is up with this meter....are they all like that? Does anyone's read decently that you can read? Mine sucks, but i'm sure its the original.

Please let me know so i can see what the heck is going on with this amp meter so i do not get stuck again. thanks.

 

[jshcobra]

The good news: If the needle moves at all when you turn on the headlights, it's working as well as any that I've ever seen. The bad news: Older Ford AMP gauges are simply a poor design that barely worked when new.

 

[1970impala]

The good news: If the needle moves at all when you turn on the headlights, it's working as well as any that I've ever seen. The bad news: Older Ford AMP gauges are simply a poor design that barely worked when new.

but, but, but....the darn thing wasn't charging at all and i had the headlights on which killed the battery and we both died. isn't this supposed to show at all a dischrage? what a mess!

 

[Wart]

which killed the battery and we both died.....

You seem to be doing pretty well for someone who died .....

If your meter seems to be working THEN there is something wrong. About the only thing the meter will indicate is a dead short, and that's speculation.

The only time I saw a II ampmeter work like an ampmeter was after installing a somewhat discharged but still healthy battery from a '72 T-Bird. The meter actually swung a good way to the first hash mark on the charging side. That was with a 90 amp alternator. I don't remember it doing a whole lot of moving after the battery got a charge.

These meters needed a higher resistance shunt, but who knows. Would have probably set fire to the wireing harness.

 

[Mstng2]

Yea they never worked well, mine will lean to the right of center (bareley off the line, when charging) and lean left of center when not charging. I actually saw it move once! GASP!! YES it's true, It was a snow storm and I turned on wipers, heater full blast, headlights, rear defroster, and flashers! It blipped to the left with every flasher flash.

 

[1970impala]

Yea they never worked well, mine will lean to the right of center (bareley off the line, when charging) and lean left of center when not charging. I actually saw it move once! GASP!! YES it's true, It was a snow storm and I turned on wipers, heater full blast, headlights, rear defroster, and flashers! It blipped to the left with every flasher flash.

HEHE, i like that. That was histerical! These meters suck!!!! What were they thinking? Your right, when i put the headlights on, it flickers briefly, then goes back to sleep. I have never seen it go negative. Is this meter connected to the battery or the alternator because i know the alternator itself is good.....after i had it tested and after i got stuck. what a POS meter! I'm pissed!

Anyone here alter theirs to make it work correctly? maybe add a resistor? WTF?

 

[Blue Thunder]

"Shunt" type gauge, or whatever it's called, means it doesnt really do anything. You can install a resistor somewhere in the circuit to force more current through the gauge, and then it will actually move, but I forget how, or even where I read it. I'm sure the information is available on google.

 

[1970impala]

"Shunt" type gauge, or whatever it's called, means it doesnt really do anything. You can install a resistor somewhere in the circuit to force more current through the gauge, and then it will actually move, but I forget how, or even where I read it. I'm sure the information is available on google.

Hey, that would be perfect!!! Does anyone have any info on this at all???? Thanks much.

 

[Wart]

A Resistor ??

 

[Wart]

If knowing what the charging system is doing is that important to you I would suggest installing a volt meter.

Knowing the lengths you have gone to keep your car stock it wouldn't need to be a hole in the dash, make a clip on for under the dash that can be un-clipped and stowed under the dash when showing the car.

 

[1970impala]

A Resistor ??

hey Mark, have you heard of anything to increase the sensitivity for these junk meters? thanks.

 

[Wart]

hey Mark, have you heard of anything to increase the sensitivity for these junk meters? thanks.

Nope,

And for the reason I stated in my first post I wouldn't be playing with it.

OTOH, I do have a uncut harness and cluster/ circuit I can sell you .....

 

[1970impala]

Nope,

And for the reason I stated in my first post I wouldn't be playing with it.

OTOH, I do have a uncut harness and cluster/ circuit I can sell you .....

do you think it is a volt meter or amp meter i should get to help prevent me from getting stuck again...and....can i install it without removing any connections for the other meter safely?

I will have to find a way to have it hidden somehow.

 

[1970impala]

If knowing what the charging system is doing is that important to you I would suggest installing a volt meter.

Knowing the lengths you have gone to keep your car stock it wouldn't need to be a hole in the dash, make a clip on for under the dash that can be un-clipped and stowed under the dash when showing the car.

Mark, that is a great idea about the clip thing! if it works out, i will send you a free mcdonalds gift certificate. i will check autozone today. question, can i tap that anywhere in the fuse box to get that reading or do i have to run in the wiring harness directly to the battery...that would suck.

 

[1970impala]

Mark, that is a great idea about the clip thing! if it works out, i will send you a free mcdonalds gift certificate. i will check autozone today. question, can i tap that anywhere in the fuse box to get that reading or do i have to run in the wiring harness directly to the battery...that would suck.

Mark, does that harness you have, have a nice voltage regulator plug? Do you know anywhere i can get a new one? my dealers are sol. thanks.

 

[Wart]

Mark, that is a great idea about the clip thing! if it works out, i will send you a free mcdonalds gift certificate.

Cool, you already have my address. But, why would you want to poison me?

i will check autozone today. question, can i tap that anywhere in the fuse box to get that reading or do i have to run in the wiring harness directly to the battery...that would suck.

I deplore the use of fuse block taps, but that thing you have for concourse sort of dictates ones use. Make sure you tap into the fused side and not the source side.

Any switched powersource would work, constant hot would leave the meter on all the time.

An option to the fuse block tap would be if you could find a unused hot plug someplace in the loom behind the dash, I know there are one or two but damned if I can remember where. Come to think of it, I have seen spay plug extenders. Or you could make your own stub plug.

Options abound to keep you from cutting into the loome.

Thing to keep in mind is voltage drop. Not from the meter because they only pull milliamps. Get one of the accurate digital meters (if you go analog you'll have to get one with a light in it, that will pull more than a ma) and put it in a circuit, then use that circuit (IE: turning on the radio, or the heater) and the readings will probably change.

 

[Wart]

Mark, does that harness you have, have a nice voltage regulator plug? Do you know anywhere i can get a new one? my dealers are sol. thanks.

Probably, but me no snippy.

Far as getting a plug, they're everywhere. Trucks , cars, and no one here will cry of they see a Granada harness butcherd. Just make sure you get one for the appropriate regulator.

Trick is getting it in the harness so no one notices and there is no bulge (hint: solder and heat shrink).

If you didn't cut the wires you could probably just swap the plastic.

 

[Power Surge]

Jon, they make cheap digitial voltmeters that plug into your lighter socket. Obviously easily removed for showing the car. Might be something of value for you, as it's easy to read battery voltage while driving. Not sure if that helps, but figured I'd mention it.

 

[Wart]

Jon, they make cheap digitial voltmeters that plug into your lighter socket.

I thought of that but it's too easy.

 

[cobraii351]

Jon,
Once I get done with your Alternator the guage will move. It did on mine at least. I get a good bit of deflection on my guage. I installed a 105 amp upgrade kit into the stock ALT housing and now once it's started it moves almost to the first mark.

Tim