Question - What parts do you have to replace when you bore a engine block?
Also how much has it cost some of you to bore you block .030 over?
Also how much has it cost some of you to bore you block .030 over?
Engine Building
- Thread starter stirling33
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69Rcode_Mach1
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Gotta replace the pistons of course for the overbore, and then you need to get new rings also. And don't forget a good hone put on those walls for them to seat. A bore won't cost too much I don't know exacts.
69Rcode_Mach1
Active Member
Don't expect anything too noticeable some people don't even notice the difference. The reason engines need to be bored is to make sure the cylinder walls are straight and free of taper. IF you got taper its time to bore, you will always need a hone to scratch the surface of the walls for the rings to seat. I would also recommend some new cam bearings and freeze plugs while your at it.
69Rcode_Mach1 said:
I am fairly new at all these mechanical stuff, so if there is no "real" benefit in boring the block and assuming my current block is solid, what types of things can be done to get some more HP out of my current setup - besides stroking the motor.
I didn't really expect any. I did it to clean it up, like 69R mentioned.stirling33 said:
Cam bearings. Those were also installed when I took the block to the shop. I knew I was forgetting something.69Rcode_Mach1 said:
What's your current set up? I completely redid the engine. World Windsor Jr. heads; Edelbrock Performer cam, intake, and carb; Crane roller rockers; TRW flat top forged pistons; 10"X4" K&N filter. I also dumped anything that caused parasitic drag, like the air conditioner and smog pump. I got rid of all the pollution stuff, like the EGR. I had JBA shorty headers and a 2 1/2" dual (no H or X pipe)exhaust. My only emissions equipment was the mufflers. Thank God we don't have emissions testing in this area.stirling33 said:
I have no idea what the HP/torque was on that car. I never dynoed it.
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