Got a new engine and f***ed up 1 cylinder in 2 days...

lordhell

New Member
Jun 16, 2003
59
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0
Miami Beach
Story:
dont even know where to start, I had a problem like 2 months ago with my car, its a 96 gt with a few mods, I went in a trip with some friends and on my way, the car made detonations and if i floored it it will hestitate... ok the thing is that i got stuck out of town, the car wont turn on, i managed to get it into a shop and left it there... all they did was take out the ignition and the car started, they left it outside the shop overnight and i picked it up since overnigth was the only time i had available for traveling... the car was running like ****, they said the spark plugs were fuel fooled and it was going to run like that for a while.... to my surprise the car never got better, it ran in 6 cylinders all the way... 2 weeks later, I finally took it to a shop.

Problem: They checked preassure and found no preassure in 2 cylinders..., they guys there said that the timing chain had jumped or something like that and that some valvles were blended... also that i should consider redoing the block so i could have new head/block matching combo... so ok we went with rebult heads and block... they took a good month to do it, finally they gave it back to me, i started driving, everything felt better than ever... 2 days later i was on my way to steeda to get the diablo chip calibrated for some parts i had added (accufab intake and tb, densecharger with 85mm maf), i got there and to my surprise the car felt something like 2 months ago, we checked and one of the cylinders had gone bad again, no preassure (3rd cylinder)... i took it back to the shop, they took the heads off and said the Fuel/Air ratio was incorrect that that it had burnt the valves there and that was not going to be covered under warranty!!! What do you guys thing? (to me? they never fixed the problem to start with)
 
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list mods done to block and internals, heads? PI? cams? head work? plenum and intake parts? all bolt-ons and mods? chip, installed or not? old tune?
If it burned valves and it did it before, you had a lean condition to begin with. The shop may or may not have had anything to do with that. give more info.
 
Um, why did you go back with a stock SB? You should have got a forged SB and some MPH heads. Get the car tuned man, your screwing it up...apparently your constantly beating on it. Especially when you said its detinating and then you floor it and its hesitating too...are you just playing with it? PUT IT ON A DYNO AND GET IT TUNED!
 
So, okay I am confused it sounds like maybe you are not getting fuel into those cylinders, like maybe an injector or ecu/wiring problem...thats if I understand the situation correct.
 
Did anyone else pick up on the fact that 2 weeks after getting it back he was taking it to get DYNO tuned with new "mods"? Sorry with the info you provided I'm saying blame lies on you. Car has an issue of some kind shop #2 gets car and it's F'd up they tear it down find the timing chain has jumped a tooth (???). bend valves, and who knows what else. You have them put in a "new" short block and reworked heads. Then go beat on it, and wonder why it blows up?
 
It's really hard to tell what's going on. Something caused your original failure, but what? Who built your new longblock? Was it a reputable shop you know you can trust or just someplace you stumbled into? Did you install a rebuilt longblock without a tune and without knowing what caused the original failure? Then you made more modifications? I don't know. Sounds like a big mess without any easy answers.
 
Ok guys sorry about the confusing explanation.

I took it to the shop, they tested for compression in the 2 cylinders and found about 15psi (nothing), so they took it appart and first they said the timing chain had jumped a tooth and thats why the valvles blended. They also said it would be a good time to rebuild the whole engine.

They sent it to a machine shop, they reassmebled the exact same engine, with new part (to the best of my knowledge) I mean, it looked pretty clean before they put it back. So, they put everything back and finally started, everything seemed excellent, except for a little fuel leak in the fuel pressure regulator which they told me it was no big deal and just to bring it back following week to install a newone or change the little orings..., also they oonly additional mod was the 85mm MAF with a densecharger AND a accufab tb/plenum combo.... anyways...

To this point the car was running great, also, for those 2 days i never floored the gas, knowing about the 1000 miles engine break in, I didnt even go more than 70mph on my way to steeda to get the Diablo Chip tunned. ---- So the car breaks and i take it back to the same shop for warrany, they take it appart and tell me its a burnt valve... ---

Like i said, my point is, IM NOT a mechanic, I didnt know that the fuel/air ratio calibration is that importat so that a valvle can burn in a matter of two days. They never either complained about putting the new intake system or about calibrating the fuel/air, that i just figured on my own....

So is it failure in my side for jsut driving the car, or its a failure on the shop for not expalaining that the fuel/air calibration is VITAL... :bang: :shrug: :shrug:


PS: Excuse my english please, I try to express as good as I can.. :nonono:

MODS:
Performance
- Aluminum intake manifold
- BBK OffRoad X Pipe
- MIL eliminator
- MAC Cold Air Intake (replaced for densecharger)
- ROUSH Underdrive Pulleys
- MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust
- Ford Racing diffrential Gears 3.73
- Aluminum FMS Driveshaft
- Steeda Speedomter Corrector Gears
- Tires 2 Nitto 555 back 275/40/17
- Tires 2 Yokohama 255/40/17
- Eibach Pro-Kit 1.5" lowered
- Rebulit AODE Transmission (01/01/04)
- Transmission Oil Cooler
- Diablo Delta Chip
- FRPP Jet-Hot Coated Shorty Headers
- AutoMeter Transmission Temp Gauge
- AutoMeter Oil Pressure Gauge
- Brembo Rotors
- Hawk Break Pads
- MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wires
- NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
- Battery Hold-Down
- MSD Dis-4 ignition w/ tach adapters and special mounting plate. (not installed at the time of the engine replacement)
- Walbro 255 lph (High Pressure) Fuel Pump
- MSD High Performance Coil Packs
- Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator
- 75mm Accufab Intake and Throtle body
- 85mm PRO-M Mass air flow
- Demolet intake
- ENERGY SUSPENSION Performance Polyurethane Motor Mounts
 
you don't have to go WOT to have detonation. You have a chip that may be adding timing, may be leaning out a little or not. You add intake parts that are known to lean it out. You drove it and burned valves. Maybe the shop is a little responsible for not saying something. I think you are mostly. Did you hear any spark knock or have any surging issues?
 
forpit2000gt said:
you don't have to go WOT to have detonation. You have a chip that may be adding timing, may be leaning out a little or not. You add intake parts that are known to lean it out. You drove it and burned valves. Maybe the shop is a little responsible for not saying something. I think you are mostly. Did you hear any spark knock or have any surging issues?
Nop, I did feel something when i was on my way there, i just set up the cruise control , at some point, i had to stop in a toll and when i was slowly accelerating again, i felt like not a detonation, but felt like the engine made a weird noise i cant describe it, maybe like if it was choking, I immediately stop accelerating and the noise stopped, i accelerated again and it was "just fine"...