Merkur questions...

[BlooDReigN]

Hey guys, not quite a Mustang, but I just bought an 87 Merkur XR4Ti. It's my new daily, and I'm wanting to get close to 250 whp out of it. I was wondering if you guys could tell me what needs to be done to get in the 220-250 whp range on these cars. I plan on doin a tune up to it here soon (plugs, wires, rotor, cap, oil change) as well as adding a K&N filter for now.

Anyway, that **** is obviously minor...what else should I do to get close to the goal I have set? What do I need to do to turn the boost up on these cars, and what are they supposed to be running stock for boost pressure?

Thanks for the help guys

 

[mr_woodster]

Stock boost is 10-15psi.
If you do plugs/cap/wires/etc, use Motorcraft ingnition productions ONLY. These cars are perticular when it comes to ignition.

Start:Fuel pump (255lph HP)

To get 250rwhp, your gonna hafta turn up the boost (manual boost controler Here )

I believe a computer upgrade (PE or LA/LB series)along with a Big VAM (air meter) from an 87-88 Turbocoupe would help forward the process.

3inch downpipe (bigger is better with turbos, if you can afford to do the whole thing, go for it)

And an intercooler would do nicely.

To button up the stability i highly recomend a 255lph HP fuel pump and the Intercooler.

Price wise, i say with all that ive listed your looking at about 300-500 dollars if you shop well.

PS: the fuel pump link is NOT mine

 

[BlooDReigN]

Right on man, thats exactly the kind of info I was lookin for. Another thing I've heard to do is disconnect the knock sensor. Is this safe driving around with say 17 psi and premium gas in it all the time? Or would I be wise to only disconnect it at the track or what ever?


Thanks again

 

[BlooDReigN]

Oh, I was also wondering if you could elaborate on the computers you mentioned, and is it better to just get a dyno tune with the stock computer? If not, can you tell me the difference between those computers please?

Also, as far as the intercooler goes, can you refer me to a guide on mounting/plumbing it. Thanks

 

[mr_woodster]

Computers are simple enough
La3 - 5 speed 87-88' Turbocoupe
Lb3- Automatic 87-88' Turbocoupe
PE- SVO mustang 85.5/86 (?)

These computers are the most agressive 2.3T computers, The PE will be hard to find and more exspensive.

dyno tune- Sure you could get one
But you would be money ahead to swap one of these 3 computers in. You will need it to make it run right anyways.

These computers are already tuned for The Big Vam and intercooler.
--------------------------------
Since your only shooting for 250hp, a dyno tune is kind of abit far for such a mild combo, IMO.
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Yes, unplugging the knock sensor is a basic first "to-do". But i HIGHLY recomend using premium gas, and LISTEN for pinging.

Pinging sounds like rocks shaking in a pot....If you hear pinging, let off the gas!

Plumbing
-Ill look for a guide, but there wont be a guide for everything you mod on your merkur.

Remember, these cars are kind of vodoo magic to after market performance parts and support. You have to be creative...but at the same time, know it has been done before.

i recomend joining turboford.org and use the SEARCH function, plenty of differnt combos and advice there for 2.3T's

 

[BlooDReigN]

Ok, I've been lookin around some at installing an intercooler. I think this is what I'm going to do next to the car, followed by a full 3" exhaust.

Anyway, theres a turbocoupe AND supercoupe intercooler for sale locally. Which of these is the better unit and can I use the stock radiator as well as keep my A/C while using either of these?

If I can't use the stock radiator, do you have a recomendation of what kind of rad to look for?

Thanks again for all the help.

 

[Mr. Merk]

you wont come close to 250whp with one of those ICs

my truck made 252whp and 340ft-lbs with:
stock head/block
ranger roller cam
stock injectors
adj fuel press reg
huge FMIC
t3 with to4e wheel
K&N
8ua computer
20psi
94 octane
13* base timing
dyno tuning
magnecor wires
NGK plugs (2 steps colder)
gutted upper intake/knifed lower
rod's tubular header (Crap)
3" elbow
3" downpipe/exhaust
and 3.73 gears
spec stg3 clutch held it together

 

[Mr. Merk]

and the whole motorcraft thing is a myth, if you dont use NGK plugs use motorcraft or autolite (same) stock copper plugs

cap and rotor arent a big deal, cheap wires are ok just replace them often (lifetime warranty $18 wires)

i do prefer to use MSD6, NGk plugs and magnecor wires tho

 

[ratrapp2]

i've got a package deal of 35lb injectors,large vam and la3 computer for sale.alos have an e6 exhaust manifold too.shoot me a pm if interested.

 

[BlooDReigN]

Well like I said in my original post, I'm lookin for 220-250 whp. I want to be able to surprise the hell out of alot of v8's and ****. What kind of IC would you suggest I use? I would preffer something that can be found for CHEAP, as this is just a low budget little build. My high budget build is my 408W going in my stang

If somebody could tell me what is a good IC to use in a Merkur, and what kind of rad I'll have to use along with it, that would be great.

 

[16vstang]

I know theres a volvo that has a front mount ic that is realy decent just cant remember what cars it came in, just do a search for volvo ic or intercooler and se what comes up As far as rads go im not sure what would fit on a merk, pretty much all I did was take the maximum mesurements that a rad could be to fit in the stang and went to a junk yard and started mesuring. Of course you mihgt have to get new hoses to fit it right but thats just what I did. Good luck with your Merk man!!

 

[Mr. Merk]

the volvos have plastic end tanks and are prone to leaking, and they flow like poo

a starion front mount is decently sized and flows very well, thats what i have on my mustang, my truck's IC was custom built and the price tag was $1000, glad it was already on the truck when i bought it

 

[Stinger]

Merkurs don't have much room in the nose. Most people try to squeeze a ~22x5x3" intercooler in the nose above the radiator...lower the radiator to allow room.

To get an IC in front of the radiator down low takes some hacking, and some creative IC tubing.

I'm looking into offering a Merkur FMIC kit on my website but I haven't come up with a setup I'm happy with yet. I like HUGE IC's so I'm having some troubles...

 

[BlooDReigN]

Merkurs don't have much room in the nose. Most people try to squeeze a ~22x5x3" intercooler in the nose above the radiator...lower the radiator to allow room.

Is that using the stock radiator? Also, do you have to get a rad that size custom built or is there some kind of car people rip them out of?

I might be interested in your kit when you get it all finished up.

 

[Stinger]

Well, some people use the stocker, some have a custom one built, and some rob the rad out of a saab, volvo, etc...whatever they can find to fit...