Ok heres the deal I have a 89 coupe. It runs good, except it surges at idle sometimes (so bad it stalls). I don't know what that is caused by either. It sounds like a vaccum leak, but I can't find it if there is one. But anyway today when I got the emissions done it failed for CO and HC! Im not sure where to go from here. I just did a tune up about 1,000 miles ago. No check engine light, I don't know whats wrong. The guy who did it said maybe because it was cold out this morning and the car wasn't driven long, but I don't know. If you can point me in the right direction to fix this I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
failed emissions....HELP
- Thread starter 89notchfox
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quiksilver9531
Founding Member
you wanna make sure you car is at a normal operating temp before testing emissions. The surging at idle could be your IAC, or it could be a vaccum leak, get a can of starting fluid and spray around
djk8705
New Member
I'd do my spraying with some soapy water in a spray bottle....
I have heard a few stories about engine bays going up in flames when a small puddle ignites of sprayed brakeclean/ starter fluid ect....
edit- also have seen some pretty poor cars pass emmisions after a BG induction service "kit" was done.. just a thought, I would fix that idle first though. good luck
I have heard a few stories about engine bays going up in flames when a small puddle ignites of sprayed brakeclean/ starter fluid ect....
edit- also have seen some pretty poor cars pass emmisions after a BG induction service "kit" was done.. just a thought, I would fix that idle first though. good luck
See the sticky "Help me create the Surging Idle Checklist" at the top of the forum for help with your idle problems.
How to pass emissions testing:
1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.
2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.
3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/det...iption.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.
5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
How to pass emissions testing:
1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.
2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.
3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/det...iption.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.
5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.
352Ford2
New Member
rd
Founding Member
Jrichker-that $30 code reader is the best item I have seen in a long while! Thanks.
I have the $49 OBD2 Creader, but OBD1's have been frustrating. I even fried my Actron 9145 a month ago on my 89. That"s the episode you solved with the circuit 46 info.
I have the $49 OBD2 Creader, but OBD1's have been frustrating. I even fried my Actron 9145 a month ago on my 89. That"s the episode you solved with the circuit 46 info.
quiksilver9531
Founding Member
djk8705
New Member
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