Correct me or make fun of this person

#61
25thmustang said:
First off I question the guy on that site, merely because he seems to half-*** list his mods. He spelled Edelbrock wrong, listed they just had a port and polish, and just seems to list stuff in random order. I am sure theres a ton of stuff he left out if thats really what the car is, but he lists his mass air meter, yet leaves out, the block, intake, cam, etc... Seems like someone with a huge mod list would mention the intake and cam hes running.

Second the stroker kit will make tons of power, but the stock block is the weak link at this point. Im sure he has an aftermarket one, but again, he didnt list it.

Raph130, a 347 stroker will NOT give you an instant 350 hp. You need the corresponding mods to go along with it. Strokers help when the motors built. I assume that what you mean, but again, wasnt stated. Noones doubting the power a combo like that can make, they doubt the 10.5:1 compression ratio, as supercharged cars dont take compression well. 10.5 is not a huge amount, but with 18 psi it is definately pushing it. I have seen guys run 10 psi on that much compression (not knowing it) and the car lasted for a few passes on 93 octane, before a head gasket went. If set up right and tuned its possible.

That much rwhp could run into the 9s and maybe 8s, with the right suspension and such. I know of a lot of 550-650 rwhp cars running in the mid 9s on small tires. Granted at that power levels to go even faster takes much more power. 50 hp at that level is only good for a tenth or two, whereas for us, that could be the difference between 14.6 and 13.9!
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Exactly, and in the first place im wondering if your going to build a serious blower engine, then why are you going to start off by using 10.5:1 pistons? I would probably start with around 9.0:1 But 10.1 pistons? And a 150 shot on that? If your engine is strong enough to build and handle that type of power then why not use a 200 or 250? Its easily done with the right parts and setup. And i agree about the parts lists also, why would you leave out a aftermarket block? Thats a pretty big mod if you ask me.

crapola
 

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#62
raph130 said:
I didn't say a stroked engine is 350hp. You can build a 302 to make at least 350hp with nothing but cam intake and some good aluminum heads. Its possible to make just about 400hp right out of the box with the right head intake and cam. There is also a head that took 30 years to build, and will give you a 500hp 302. It is the best high flowing head to exist for the 302. Take that ls1 engines. Who makes stronger blocks? Say i wanted a 302 block that could handle 1000hp, who would i turn to?
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oh...........i think u did!!:D :D

raph130 said:
You guys are gay and unprofessional. I see nothing wrong with the guys mods. he's making at least 350hp n/a because of the stroked motor, higher compression and ported/polished aluminum heads. Do you know how much power you get at 18psi? cmon do some homework. thats huge. that supercharger is making at least 300hp on top of that a 150hp shot of nos. Forced induction engines respond much better to a low temp air charge than n/a. I have seen stangs running mid 12's n/a and then with a shot of nos run low 11s. The guy has a good setup and should not be made fun of. Sounds to me like a good 7-8 sec mustang. So yeah, im correcting the guy who first posted here. And the rest of you guys making fun of that guy's stang need to grow up and leave the diapers at home...

ps a completely stock 147k mile 302 making 222lbs/tq can pump out 430lbs/tq with just a 125shot of nos. nevermind rebuilding the engine, stroking it, upping the compression, slapping on high flow aluminum heads, 18psi boost, and 150 shot of nos....and numerious other mods like a bigger maf and tb, and intake and cam. and im the stupid one? i dont think so...you do the math.
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#63
To all who believe or don't believe. :Track:

All else is just mental masturbation.
Internet postings=crapola
Dyno HP bench racers=crapola

Whole cars race down the track, not internet posts or "dyno runs".

Take the man up on his offer, then laugh at him OR give him his due. AFTER YOU :Track: :Track:
 
#68
I have myspace too, but you better believe if I mention the car, its not made up garbage and can be backed up 5 times over!

To the guy whose car it is, you still have yet to prove anything, and for anyone who remembrs raph, or even reads his posts on this thread, having him back you up just makes it worse!
 
#76
Mavrick said:
What is the gearing like in a powergluide? I would think with 3:73's and a two speed it would really suck for a weekend driver like the guy says...
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There's 2 factory versions of the power glide that I am aware of. One for I6's and one for bigger V8's.

The I6's version had (I think) a 1.8:1 first gear and 1:1 second, while the V8 version had a 1.71 first.
 
#77
Guys - there are thousands of drag racers out there running 'glides - VERY common drag tranny because of it's simplicity and consistency. Google racing powerglides and you'll see there's a host of companies that build them for drag racing, and you can get different ratios depending on your needs. Most of the racing trannies in use today have little in common with the old factory trannies. A 1.82 low gear is quite common -- see TCI's race-prepped glides for more info.
 
#78
Ok I'll throw in my 2 cents...... first off 750 rwh can get you to go 8.90's in a very well set up car at around 3000 pounds with driver as long as its a good average of power... but in no way is it going 200 mph in a quarter mile with that power... second 10:1 compression and a blower is very common in the race world, it is mainly used when the class has certain limitations and the compression is the only way left to make power... but there is no way you are doing this with 18 pounds and no intercooler, now putting a 150 shot on top of this is very doubtful even in the hands of the best tuners... another thing is getting a foxbody down to even 2500 pounds with a blower set up is something I would like to see... we have the best of the best on our car carbon fiber nose, brakes... every thing that can be cut out is gone... studs and some bolts are titanium, our transmission has an all aluminum case, aluminum convertor, aluminum block... the only thing we cant change is the factory glass and our car still weighs in around 2750 wo driver thats with a 91mm turbo not a blower so even take away a little weight for that... I have seen nitrous cars get down to around 2550 with driver with all of the above sheet metal parts on the engine.... the question on blocks... stock is always tuff to say because there are always to many factors to add in to the equation.. rpm, weight, tranny it all factors in on its life span... as for the aftermarket blocks... an a-4 block is good not quite as strong as a r-block but can handle most anything a street car will throw 1000+ would be no issue and r-block I also know will handle a lot.. we have had an r-block (steal) making upwards of 1500 rwh without a issue RDI aluminum blocks are killer and this year we made around 2000 fwh with one and have seen more out of them... last the power glide is a very very good transmission for race cars if you have the power it is also a good street type tranny... the gearing varies... you can have custom sets made like us that can go from a real low first gear to a high one.... 25th mustang knows who I am...if you dont just look in any 5.0 or muscle mustangs you'll see our car its the red/white and blue outlaw car from nmra...also the world record holder for real 10.5 inch tires.. 7.37 @ 195
 
#79
My friend Charlie owns CD race cars and his mustang has a 670 ci. chevy motor with 800hp of nitrous on it with a powerglide. On the cars recent shake down passes at Englishtown NJ. the car went 7.40's at 189. that was bringing the stage of nitrous on late in the pass. I hate that the car has a chevy motor in it, but then again 1800 plus horse power who could hate that.
 
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