Look what i got today!

Look what i got today! Cobra intake Questions

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Well i picked up my cobra intake today from Ford (which is made in CHINA :notnice: and the quality could definatly be better) , i decided to go with the satin instead of the polished that i wanted mainly becuase of the $100 price difference so i decided i would take the extra hundred i saved and pick up some cobra valve covers next week.

So far i have the u/l intakes, throttle body gasket, upper to lower gasket, new motorcraft 180 thermostat, 1 tube of black rtv, 2 jugs of coolant, 2 gallons of distilled water.

Tech question--- What lower gasket do i need because I still have stock heads? Felpro 1250? Also i was going to use my stock throttle body is that ok? And if so What bolts do i use to bolt it on?
And is there anything else i should pick up before i start the install?
Also does anyone have a write up on this install or any suggestions to make it simpler/better?


I was thinking of picking up some injector rebuild kits so i'll have all new seals on them as well.
 
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That's what I used on my cobra intake with stock and eddy heads,with no problems.Just make sure all surfaces clean and retorque after a couple heat cycles.I hate to be the bearer of bad news,but I really didn't notice much of a difference till I changed my heads.And I know this is obvious ,make sure you change the oil -n-filter when your done.Alot of people prefer Trickflow or eddy intakes,but I'm happy with mine.You might have trouble setting the timing(module hits on thermosat bump).I used a die grinder and took a little off.
 
Well autozone was no help at all and o'rielly didn't have the felpro 1250 but they had the felpro 5511 and i matched it to the intake ports and it looks perfect, well as perfect as a gasket gets lol.

So now i also have a new egr gasket, 8 injector rebuild kits, a new t-stat gasket, and the felpro 5511 intake gaskets. I'm also going to get new upper and lower radiator hoses while i'm at it.

Anything else i should get?
And also can i use my stock throttle body? If so what bolts do i use?

Matt
 
if you havent done the injector thing (if you are replacing the caps) be careful.. the ones we just did were a pain in the yang to get off. and its easy to damage the tip if youre not careful. did you get the borg/warner rebuild kits?
 
prob. have to buy some bolts at the hardware store the proper length and thread pitch.

I would suggest only replacing the pintle caps that are broken; pull the old o-rings off around the pintle caps. Lube the new ones up w/ vaseline and put them on with the old cap on (unless it's clogged or broken). The old caps are a PITA to get off and the new ones are hard to get on w/o breaking.

Michael Yount gave me this tip and it works very well: Take some 7/16" bolts a couple inches long and chop the heads off. Slit the tops so that you can use a screwdriver to remove them and use them as "dowels" or "studs." Put one on each corner where the lower intake bolts would go and install the intake and get all the other bolts lined up (just don't torque yet). You can then pull them out and install the actual bolts and torque to spec. using the torque sequence. Doing this allows you to have it lined up properly and gaskets won't shift. You can re-use them on the upper to lower as well:nice:
 
FarBeyondDriven said:
if you havent done the injector thing (if you are replacing the caps) be careful.. the ones we just did were a pain in the yang to get off. and its easy to damage the tip if youre not careful. did you get the borg/warner rebuild kits?
Yes i got the borg/warner kits , not much in them, just 2 brown o-rings, 1 yellow plastic o-ring, and a little blue cap with a hole in it. Is the blue cap the pintle cap?

Also how long should the 7/16 bolts be and what kind of threads should they have, cause this sounds like a really good idea but i just want to make sure i get the right bolts. I might just wait till i get the lower off and take one of the bolts to orielly with me for reference.

I'm also going to be switching to 19# injectors while i'm at it so all of them will get the new stuff. I just realized i have 3 sets of 19# injectors so if i mess one or even 8 up i will have plenty of extras:)
 
I just used a set of ARP intake bolts to replace the factory ones.

I just looked down the center ports for alignment purposes, then set it down.

Be sure to go over the torque sequence a couple of times until the bolts don't have to be torqued anymore. With the Felpro 1250's usually 5 times or so, with your 5511's maybe 3 or 4.

You say you have 3 sets of 19 lb injectors? I hope they were not sitting long as they tend to lock up.
 
Tmoss,stangnets resident intake manifold expert/porter may have some info/advice on those made in China intakes in terms of if they need any clean up work before installing.

The lower manifold,(any type) can be a headache in terms of sealing and more than likely will require retorquing the bolts at least once,(maybe more)after installing.(gasket issue).

On the initial install,keep going over the bolts again and again in sequence until they all tighten down evenly,then retorque a few days later.

I`ve had to retorque mine twice already since installing new intake gaskets,and this is with the crap stock intake.
 
You could have used the stock intake set Fel Pro MS93334 for the Cobra if it comes with an upper-to-lower gasket. That kit is only ~$15 and is VERY high quality - better than the 1250. A 96 Explorer intake kit would work too, but it is ~$40, so I buy the MS93334 kit and the upper-to-lower Explorer gasket for $12 and wind up spending $27 rather than $40 and I get a spare stock upper-to-lower from the 93334 kit to boot which I give away with my intakes when I have them.
 
yes, you can just take one of the old intake bolts to reference when getting the bolts for the "studs." They only need to be around 2 inches or so...just long enough for the lower to fit over them and have room to get them off. I'd suggest a hardware store for bolts instead of spending way too much at the hardware store. Obviously, if the hardware store is out of your way, you may be better off w/ the auto store paying a couple bucks extra.

If you can "eyeball" the install and get it spot on, that's great, but I can't. I've had issues w/ lower intakes sealing and recommend the "stud" idea to anyone when installing heads and/or intakes. Make sure the slit in the top is wide enough for your flat screwdriver end; I made that mistake and ended up having to use vise grips to get mine out:bang:

Yes, the blue caps are the pintle caps.

Yeah, it's a good idea to work up to the recommended torque in a few steps; I generally go w/ 3 steps. Example: if the torque rating is 25 lb/ft, I'll go for instance 10lbs the first time and torque all of them in sequence; then go 20 in sequence and finally finish off w/ 25.

Switching to 19lb injectors? You realize stock size is 19lb, right? Not so sure how you're "switching to" them unless you had larger before?
 
Thanks for the help theuser!

I already know to do the tork sequence in small increments , so yes i will do that.

I have 24# injectors now so thats why i'm switching to 19# injectors, everyone says the 24s are too much for me and are probably hurting my performance. The car does seem to run rich even with the fuel pressure at 32 idle and 40 wot so hopefully switching will help.

T-moss--- Yes i did get the 93334 kit but it said 5511 in small print on the back so i thought that was the part number. AND it only cost me $8.99 at orielly :)