Convertible top installation
- Thread starter johnsstang04
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StangVert00
New Member
johnsstang04 said:
Personally, unless you know exactly what you are doing, and I am not saying that you don't know how to do it, I would let the Pro Shop put the new top on for you. Yes, you can probably order the parts, but take my advice and have the Pro Shop put it on for you.
I have heard plenty of horror stories of guys who tried to put the top on themselves, failed, and then took their 'Stang 'Vert to a Pro Shop to have it installed.
My 2c.
StangVert00
whwright
Member
I put a top on my '72. It was hard. It has a few wrinkles in it, but for a "fun driver" it looks just fine. My wife says it looks great, but she's comparing it to the top that I took off.
Are you trying to build a "show car?" If so, go to a pro.
Are you really, really picky? If so, go to a pro.
Are you willing to take some time, probably do something wrong, and live with a few wrinkles? You can probably tackle it in your garage.
If you expect your first try to be perfect, you'll be disappointed.
I would suggest you take a multi-step approach. It's been almost two years since I did this project, so I might not remember everything; but here goes.
First, order your new top. Take it out of the box and study it. Study the rear window assembly CLOSE.
Second, remove the existing top. Take your time. Don't CUT it, but rather UN-INSTALL it. By carefully studying how it is attached you will see how the new top goes on. Take a paint pen (contrasting with the top) and make lines where the fabric lines up with the tack strips. Make sure you mark where the window assembly lines up with the rear bow and the bottom strip.
Now check out the tack strips and the pads. If they need to be replaced, order new ones and get some rest until they arrive. If you need to, clean up and paint the places where the tack strips and trim pieces attach to the body. On my '72 there were cables (one on each side) that make the top "stiff" when it's up; I assume all the first gen Mustangs have them. If yours are broken, replace those too. This is also a good time to check the weatherstripping.
And go buy a REALLY GOOD STAPLE GUN. I managed to do the job with a cheap electric staple gun, but you really need a pnuematic one to do the job correctly. I found that even my old trusty spring-loaded stapler works better than the electric one.
Lay the old top and the new top together, and transfer any lines you made to the new top. The top I bought already had lines marked on it, but one line was missing. Compare the rear window assembly carefully, because the one I took out was completely different than the one I put in; consequently it doesn't fit just right. If I had known ahead of time, I'm pretty sure I could have gotten it in correctly.
But remember: once you staple something, you can't go back; don't skimp on the prep work.
You're finally ready to put on the top. Take a deep breath, and start by stapling the new top and the rear window to the rear tack strip. Start in the middle, and YOU CAN'T PULL IT TOO TIGHT AROUND THE STRIP. I learned this the hard way, and I'll be living with wrinkles until this top wears out.
Bolt it back into the car, and stretch the top over the mechanism. I tacked it in front next, but you might elect to tack it to the rear bow next. Either way, measure/fit/measure/fit etc. CAREFULLY. You want the top to be nice and tight when it's up, but not too tight. When you tack it to the rear bow, drive the staples in a PERFECTLY STRAIGHT LINE. Otherwise the little strip gizmo that is supposed to cover the staples won't quite cover them. Then you wind up dabbing them with black (or white) paint so they aren't quite so obvious.
Put in the cable thingies somewhere along the way. I honestly don't recall exactly where in the process this has to happen, but stay on your toes and you'll see when to do it. If I recall correctly, I fought with it for a while until I figured out that with the top "down" just a little bit the cables would go right into place.
I used some contact cement along the edges, and immediately secured them with the weatherstrip. The weatherstrip screws in, and you'll probably need an ice-pick (or similar tool) to start the holes where the screws go.
Last, put on the little strip gizmo that covers up the staples.
I'm pretty sure I recall all the major steps; but I wouldn't be surprised to find that I left something out.
Good luck!
Wayne.
Are you trying to build a "show car?" If so, go to a pro.
Are you really, really picky? If so, go to a pro.
Are you willing to take some time, probably do something wrong, and live with a few wrinkles? You can probably tackle it in your garage.
If you expect your first try to be perfect, you'll be disappointed.
I would suggest you take a multi-step approach. It's been almost two years since I did this project, so I might not remember everything; but here goes.
First, order your new top. Take it out of the box and study it. Study the rear window assembly CLOSE.
Second, remove the existing top. Take your time. Don't CUT it, but rather UN-INSTALL it. By carefully studying how it is attached you will see how the new top goes on. Take a paint pen (contrasting with the top) and make lines where the fabric lines up with the tack strips. Make sure you mark where the window assembly lines up with the rear bow and the bottom strip.
Now check out the tack strips and the pads. If they need to be replaced, order new ones and get some rest until they arrive. If you need to, clean up and paint the places where the tack strips and trim pieces attach to the body. On my '72 there were cables (one on each side) that make the top "stiff" when it's up; I assume all the first gen Mustangs have them. If yours are broken, replace those too. This is also a good time to check the weatherstripping.
And go buy a REALLY GOOD STAPLE GUN. I managed to do the job with a cheap electric staple gun, but you really need a pnuematic one to do the job correctly. I found that even my old trusty spring-loaded stapler works better than the electric one.
Lay the old top and the new top together, and transfer any lines you made to the new top. The top I bought already had lines marked on it, but one line was missing. Compare the rear window assembly carefully, because the one I took out was completely different than the one I put in; consequently it doesn't fit just right. If I had known ahead of time, I'm pretty sure I could have gotten it in correctly.
But remember: once you staple something, you can't go back; don't skimp on the prep work.
You're finally ready to put on the top. Take a deep breath, and start by stapling the new top and the rear window to the rear tack strip. Start in the middle, and YOU CAN'T PULL IT TOO TIGHT AROUND THE STRIP. I learned this the hard way, and I'll be living with wrinkles until this top wears out.
Bolt it back into the car, and stretch the top over the mechanism. I tacked it in front next, but you might elect to tack it to the rear bow next. Either way, measure/fit/measure/fit etc. CAREFULLY. You want the top to be nice and tight when it's up, but not too tight. When you tack it to the rear bow, drive the staples in a PERFECTLY STRAIGHT LINE. Otherwise the little strip gizmo that is supposed to cover the staples won't quite cover them. Then you wind up dabbing them with black (or white) paint so they aren't quite so obvious.
Put in the cable thingies somewhere along the way. I honestly don't recall exactly where in the process this has to happen, but stay on your toes and you'll see when to do it. If I recall correctly, I fought with it for a while until I figured out that with the top "down" just a little bit the cables would go right into place.
I used some contact cement along the edges, and immediately secured them with the weatherstrip. The weatherstrip screws in, and you'll probably need an ice-pick (or similar tool) to start the holes where the screws go.
Last, put on the little strip gizmo that covers up the staples.
I'm pretty sure I recall all the major steps; but I wouldn't be surprised to find that I left something out.
Good luck!
Wayne.
Been there...done that!
I replaced the top on my 69 convertible.
I studied it and made all the templates.
I measured and studied some more.
I Test fitted and measured and replaced my tack strips with new ones.
I learned all the tricks about letting the sun warm the top to make it easer to work with and everything.
It only took me 6 days and I have a wrinkle in the rear window and still haven't been able to get those damn bars that fit in the tubes and screw to the crosspieces in properly.
My brother helped on several occasions and learned a lot also.
He took his 70 vert to the upholstery guy and had it the next day and it was beautiful.
This is not a skill for the first timer..it is an art that has many permutatons that I have not mastered.
I am one of those guys who believes he can do anything...rebuilt my auto tranny, ported heads, painted, rebuilt carbs, floorpans..can do all these things.
But, next time I am just gonna take it to the upholstery guy. Well maybe not!
I hear that the Fox Mustangs are easier to do....
Bruce
I replaced the top on my 69 convertible.
I studied it and made all the templates.
I measured and studied some more.
I Test fitted and measured and replaced my tack strips with new ones.
I learned all the tricks about letting the sun warm the top to make it easer to work with and everything.
It only took me 6 days and I have a wrinkle in the rear window and still haven't been able to get those damn bars that fit in the tubes and screw to the crosspieces in properly.
My brother helped on several occasions and learned a lot also.
He took his 70 vert to the upholstery guy and had it the next day and it was beautiful.
This is not a skill for the first timer..it is an art that has many permutatons that I have not mastered.
I am one of those guys who believes he can do anything...rebuilt my auto tranny, ported heads, painted, rebuilt carbs, floorpans..can do all these things.
But, next time I am just gonna take it to the upholstery guy. Well maybe not!
I hear that the Fox Mustangs are easier to do....
Bruce
thanks for all the info. i'm going to call a few upholstery shops tomorrow and see what the going rate is on a top installation. i'm a picky person but i'm also cheap, so i suppose they cancel each other out. i've got some free time this weekend so i might end up doing it myself (and screwing up a few times).
whwright
Member
Go to www.ilovemymustang.com
Put "tack" in the search window and search by keyword.
The strips I bought are part numbers 94-18592-8 and 94-18771-7. The strips you take off will probably be cork, the replacements are some kind of plastic. I'm sure they are available someplace else, but it just so happens that "Classic Mustang Parts of Oklahoma" is only a couple miles from my home.
I only had to replace the front strip, not the rear bow or the back one.
I used contact cement to glue the strip to the top mechanism. I seems to be holding up fine, especially since the top is also held in place by the front weatherstrip.
Put "tack" in the search window and search by keyword.
The strips I bought are part numbers 94-18592-8 and 94-18771-7. The strips you take off will probably be cork, the replacements are some kind of plastic. I'm sure they are available someplace else, but it just so happens that "Classic Mustang Parts of Oklahoma" is only a couple miles from my home.
I only had to replace the front strip, not the rear bow or the back one.
I used contact cement to glue the strip to the top mechanism. I seems to be holding up fine, especially since the top is also held in place by the front weatherstrip.
whwright
Member
Hey John, let us know how your install goes. Even if it takes a long time, I would be interested in knowing if your experience is similar to mine.
Wayne.
Wayne.
chepsk8
Founding Member
I too was considering doing it myself on the 69, but ulrimately deferred to a pro. Best thing I ever did.
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