Need some advice - Automatic to manual swap

[Chronos[AsG]]

Ok, so I've decided to get rid of the automatic and put a manual in there. I think a few of you have done this so I wanna run my plan by the forums and ask for some suggestions and recommendations. I'm not doing the typical AODE to t5 swap. I'm gonna be installing a t56 instead.

Current plan is to order the t56 installation kit from D&D. I will order the AODE to t5 kit from Mustang Parts Specialties minus the parts I get from D&D. I still have to do a full run through of all the parts to establish exactly what I will be getting from who. (full list can be found here,
thanks Green 94 5.0 )

I do know I will most likely be ordering the clutch and flywheel from D&D also. Current plans are to get the billet steel flywheel and a King Cobra cluth.

Now the questions:

1. The t56 I was looking at is the wide ratio version that I believe came in the 03 Cobras. Is there any particular reason I should look at the close ratio version?

2. Currently my motor is stock but I would like to eventually add heads, a cam, intake, and a supercharger. It might be a while before I can get to this, though, I will probably change the gears to finish up the driveline next. Is there any reason I should look at a bigger clutch or should the King Cobra be good for now?

Also, should the billet steel flywheel be fine or is aluminum worth considering? I'm honestly not even sure what advantages aluminum offers.

3. This seems obvious but I'm pretty sure neither the D&D kit nor the MPS kits come with an aftermarket shifter. It would make the most sense to go ahead and order a Tri-Ax and install it with the tranny, right?

4. I'm pretty sure all the parts that come with the MPS kit are used. What parts should I order new when I order? I'm guessing it would be a little nicer to at least have a new shifter boot and know when I install everything.

5. I've read Killercanary's write-up here about indexing the bellhousing. Are there any other semi-critical or critical things I need to know about?

Please post any recommendations or suggestions. Questions are also welcome. If I think of anything else I forgot I'll add it on.

Thanks a ton.

 

[Chronos[AsG]]

bump.

Got the thread moved. Help me out here, guys.

 

[BDAWK2002]

If you do a search you'll proly answer most of your questions.Why do you want to go with a 6 speed????Youre gonna need a computer from a 5 spd car wich I dont think either one of those two kits include.Your gonna have to do some research and find out what kind of bellhousing,driveshaft&wiring harness youre gonna need for the 6spd.Prolly be easier and cheaper to go with a 5spd.The trans prolly comes with a close ratio shifter also but chek it out.

 

[Chronos[AsG]]

Ok, I'm gonna bump this one more time. Hoping maybe somebody might have something else to add.

 

[Green 94 5.0]

im not very familiar with the t56 or its fitment requirements aside from my 03 cobra having one, but i will make a recommendation about the flywheel. i would go fidanza all the way for several reasons. first, you wont need to change the flywheel should you go stroker later. the flywheel comes with both weights (28oz and 50oz). the second reason is that rather than needing to be resurfaced, the entire friction surface can be replaced.

 

[final5-0]

The close ratio trans might be be an option you would consider if you plan to do a lot of drag racing. Why not ask D&D for their thoughts about which ratio would best suite your needs?

Seems like lately, several of the members have not been all that happy with the King Cobra clutch.

Why not do a search and see what other members have to say about clutch choice.

Here is a clutch thread that is pretty recent
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=608053

Grady

 

[bimmertech]

i like the idea of the fidanza and i will buy one with my upcoming short block.

as far as the wide vs. short ratio gears--you should base your desicion on the torque rating and your wallet.

if you sit down and compare the two ratios you will notice that the diff is very minimal in gear drops between rpms--if you use an appropriate final drive.

example--if you choose the viper spec that has a .50 6th gear you could run a 4.10 final drive and prolly tach the same as the regular T56 with the .62 6th gear and a 3.73 final drive.

you prolly see this as an advantage, but if you compare those two given final drives with the remaining gears of the respective trannies, there is little gear advantage to be had by choosing one over the other. i hope this makes sense.

as for the shifter, buy one on down the road--the t56 can be a bit notchy and an aftermarket shifter may be too notchy(depending on preference)

i don't know what kinda stuff the conversion comes with, but i would deff recommend a new clutch quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster.

 

[Gibbo97]

Howdy,

I've done the AOD-E to T-5 and later the T-56 swap in my car. Hopefully I can help anwer a few questions.

1. The t56 I was looking at is the wide ratio version that I believe came in the 03 Cobras. Is there any particular reason I should look at the close ratio version?

The big advantage to getting the D&D close ratio kit is the increased torque capacity, up from the rated 440 lb-ft to 650 lb-ft of torque. As Bimmertech said the final drive ratio, application and cost will dictate your needs here. I chose the the wide ratio kit for both cost and needs. I can still drive the car on the highway in 6th gear with a 3.73 gear and .62 6th at around 1800 at 70 mph.

2. Currently my motor is stock but I would like to eventually add heads, a cam, intake, and a supercharger. It might be a while before I can get to this, though, I will probably change the gears to finish up the driveline next. Is there any reason I should look at a bigger clutch or should the King Cobra be good for now?

I would recommend getting the strongest clutch you can buy to fit your goals (ie., HCI, Supercharger) so you spend less in the long run. I use a centerforce Dual Friction clutch and it seems to be holding well for my application (see sig), while others would probably recommend the Spec stage 2 or 3. For the eventual goals you have set I feel the King Cobra clutch would be inadequate and would have to be replaced anyways, so why spend more to replace?

Also, should the billet steel flywheel be fine or is aluminum worth considering? I'm honestly not even sure what advantages aluminum offers.

ATM I chose the fidanza billet steel flywheel which has replaceable inserts. The advantage to going to a lighter flywheel is less rotating mass in the driveline resulting in less parasitic driveline loss and quicker revs. The difference in price between the steel vs the aluminum is approximately $100-150.

3. This seems obvious but I'm pretty sure neither the D&D kit nor the MPS kits come with an aftermarket shifter. It would make the most sense to go ahead and order a Tri-Ax and install it with the tranny, right?

I have the steeda triax unit and it works great, it's still a little notchy but the shifts are positive and feels very good. I would recommend buying one.

4. I'm pretty sure all the parts that come with the MPS kit are used. What parts should I order new when I order? I'm guessing it would be a little nicer to at least have a new shifter boot and know when I install everything.

Honestly I would see if I could source those parts locally before spending the premium buying the MPS kit. Unless you live nearby where you can pick up in Winder, you'll pay a premium for the same parts due to shipping and handling (not to mention they are a bit high on their parts). When I did my tranny conversion I was able to source all the parts in town and was able to purchase it (everything but the clutch, but included a used t-5 which I had checked out) for around 1100. Little things I can think of would be the harness that goes from the engine bay to the transmission, the speedo gear that goes inside the transmission(check hanlonmotorsports.com website to see exactly which one you need), pedal assembly, the T4M0 computer (make sure that it is the correct one). the lower shifter boot as well as the upper. I would say go ahead and get a new clutch cable and quadrant, I chose the maximum motorsports kit. http://www.maximummotorsports.com/cq.asp#cables MMCP-51

5. I've read Killercanary's write-up here about indexing the bellhousing. Are there any other semi-critical or critical things I need to know about?

One thing I would say is that if it is possible by all means index the bellhousing. The design tolerances in each of our cars is very different and without indexing odds are you will experience driveline vibration that can be a minor annoyance at lower speeds to downright dangerous at higher speeds. Make sure you use the right equipment and take your time- it's easy to get into a rush because you want to get her back on the road, but resist that tempation and do it right the first time. Also check for clearance on your exhaust as well, due to the increased length of the T-56 your midpipe's hangers may no longer be usable and you will have to cut and remount some new hangers as well. This task can usually be taken care of at a muffler shop for a minimal fee.




Also of note: If you are going the way you are with the goal of a high horsepower supercharged application make sure you look at the complete driveline. Remember most of the parts in our cars were originally meant to handle no more than 260-300lbs of torque which includes your rear end as well. If you are going to use regular street tires they will quickly become your weakest link (and will spin and burn like crazy) but once you go to a sticky tire (wether a slick or a drag radial) it no longer becomes your weakest link- look into investing in a new differential and axles as well. I have an Eaton 31 spline diff and superior 31 spline axles and would recommend them as well.


Again depending on what your goals and application the T-56 is a great transmission for roadracing and for the most part drag racing too. It handles much more torque than the standard T-5 and pretty much is used in a lot of top end cars (Vipers, Cobras, even the Aston Martin Vanquish!)

I was able to install my transmission over the course of a weekend without the luxury of having a lift, just make sure you lift the car as high as you can and get a couple of friends to help out (I'm not a big guy at 5'4" and I was able to wrestle that damn 160 lb T-56 in myself- something I wouldn't recommend to anyone!).

Overall I'm very happy with the T-56 and wouldn't change it! I can drive it around town with little fuss and have confidence that with my setup it has plenty of power to handle what my motor puts out (in the neighborhood of 450hp at the wheels with a very conservative tune) Good luck and have fun with your project!