Why I hate coil spring compressors...

Big_B

New Member
Oct 22, 2003
121
0
0
Sacramento
This is sorta long, but bear with me:

So I am getting back to Granada swap project on my 68 coupe that I started a month or two ago. I finally decided to put in some 620s springs just to hopefully level it out, and this would be a good time to do it seeing as how most of the front end needs to come off anyway. I am aware that the springs don't have to come out to do the swap, but it's too late for that - here's why:

To remove the springs I started with the outside type compressors, but I really don't like how they have a habit of spinning around next to each other and launching the spring through the garage wall (my dad did this years ago - glad he wasn't in front of it!). So I went and picked up an internal one tonight, and then I learned that they can slip too! While you are pulling the spring out. With your hands. Thankfully I still have my fingers!

As you can see in the photos, the spring is now sort of lodged underneath the insulator, with the bottom of the compressor not entirely on anymore. I am kind of freaked out about how to get it out now. I was thinking of putting the outside compressors on and see if I can recompress it enough to get it out. Or I remember reading about someone using a torch to heat the springs up and have them "fall out". I've never tried that and the whole "spring shooting through the garage wall/my face" has me a little worried.

Anyone have any suggestions? Other than "Man up Nancy!"? Will the torch idea work?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8347.JPG
    IMG_8347.JPG
    68.7 KB · Views: 360
  • IMG_8348.JPG
    IMG_8348.JPG
    67.9 KB · Views: 417
  • Sponsors (?)


If you torch the sping it will just collapse and ruin it. If thats the plan, just be sure not to melt through. I would try to get the compressor to work. If you cant use it to get the old springs out, how will you get the 620s in? Its also not a bad idea to lubricate the threads of the compressor with some moly grease.

I'm going to do the same thing in the near future. I got some 620s to compliment my 1 1/8" swaybar and Granada discs will go on at the same time.
 
It looks to me that the center bolt is too long and is now being forced against the shock support on the control arm. Try backing out the screw and it should relatch.

Most inside spring compressers have a bolt that is too long for use with a mustang. When I bought mine, I also ordered the optional shorter center bolt too.

If you find that the bolt is too long, either shorten the bolt if it is yours (hack saw job) or take it totally apart and stack several large washers under the big nut on the top. Then reassemble. The washers will take up excess length.
 
dennis112 said:
If you find that the bolt is too long, either shorten the bolt if it is yours (hack saw job) or take it totally apart and stack several large washers under the big nut on the top. Then reassemble. The washers will take up excess length.

It looks like it is hitting, but it actually has about 0.5" to go. I read about this issue in another thread, so I used a 3/4"x3.5" piece of galvanized pipe to take up some room. You can see it in picture two if you look close.

Thanks for the advice all, hopefully if I still have my fingers this afternoon I can post a follow-up.
 
:lol: hockey tape. Pretty good idea. ok, if u can get the spring to be compressed( USED EXTERNAL SPRING COMP.) take a thin galvanized pipe and run it down through the camber plates( like u have done with the internal compressor) and then run it down through the center of the spring. That way if ur compressor slips the spring stays in the general area of the pipe. The pipe allows u to remove the compressor( upon extending the spring into its spot) without using your hands :nice: . If I find a picture I will post it.
 
I got it out finally, with only the outside compressors on.

DukeGnarley said:
i usually put the compressor in upside down, and just wrench it through the coils with the bolt stick up through the top of the shock tower.

It turns out that was the problem. The bolt head was sticking up above the spring and hitting the sheetmetal, which wouldn't allow it to come out. I ended up taking the internal compressor out, and smacking the spring with a hammer until it popped out. The outer compressors stayed on the whole time, even after rotating to one side.

Once that was out, the new (old) spindle went right on. Looks like another month long hiatus though - I gotta go out of town tomorrow for several weeks.

Thanks for all the advice!

-B
 
I did it like you are doing it, except, I used 4 of those pipe fittings. It looks like you are using 2. Might be worth it to undo it, and throw another 1 or 2 on.

I tried several ways, then I finally came up w/ the pipe fitting idea and I was able to get my springs off in about a minute.

Picture003.jpg


Picture011.jpg
 
compressed springs are dangerous, but no need to be scared. I used the compresser upsidedown with an impact wrench, virerate like a mo-fo, but I was never afraid of it suddenly snapping loose, it seemed pretty secure. Oh, and I was cuting my springs to height (the ones they sent me had me +4") so I had to put them on/off about 5 times each, and recompress twice every cut. My bolt turned to one side too, but I just kept on it.

Tyler
 
I use the inside kind, but with them upside down and a plate where the top of the spring tower is. It then "pulls" the spring up into the tower with plenty of room to work and use the compressor. Remove the upper control arm and then let it back out to remove the spring. If you need a better description let me know and I will detail it a little better.
 
Spring Compressors

My son came up with an idea that worked very well on his 68 coupe. We later used it on my 65 convertible with great success.
Place 2 pieces of 1" wood on top of the shock tower, one on ech side of the hole. Insert the inside type compressor down through the hole. Rest the upper compressor arms on the wood above the shock tower and attach the lower arms as low on the spring as possible. Slowly compress the spring until the lower area is clear. Then pull the lower part of the spring clear and slowly decompress the spring. Reverse the process to install the new springs. Amazingly, as the new spring is compressed it will automatically pull right into place. I have some pictures that I can post when I get home this evening.
:nice:
 
Spring Compressor Pics

I hope these pictures come through and help. I also used a 3-1/2" long piece of pipe on top to keep the jack screw from hitting the bottom.
 

Attachments

  • Spring install 1av.jpg
    Spring install 1av.jpg
    73.2 KB · Views: 257
  • Spring Install 3av.jpg
    Spring Install 3av.jpg
    76.5 KB · Views: 223
I got lazy and just cut the spring compresser bolt with the angle grinder and used an impact gunwith an extension as I was to cheap to buy some pipe fittings, but now my spring compresser is custom fit to old mustangs!! And lots o lube helped. BTW if anyone in OKC wants to do this, I've got the tools, er custom tools:nice:
 
man...you guys are killin me...

im with MFP. Go to your local Vatozone and rent their internal compressors. I will get a pic of mine later but there is a 1/4" metal shoe (a plate of steel would work) that goes on the top of the shock tower, then you suck the spring up, move the upper control arm and then let the spring down slowly.

DONT BUY A CHEAPASS spring compressor. Thes ones wiht a nut on teh top that are drilled and a pin stuck through them SUCK. You can buy the ones from autozone and the bolt is 1 piece. I will get some pics of mine later so you guys can see. Its similar to the block of wood idea above but a LOT SAFER.
 
I bought a spring compressor from Branick industries out of Fargo, ND. I love it.

It's two parts. On the bottom are hooks like a regular compressor. Then you slip a Y-shaped part through the spring that hooks under the top where the nut is. This works quickly to get the thing in position. You still have to make sure it doesn't slip, but it's waaaay better than the 4 hook style.