installing new heads, lifters. need advice

90lxfoxbody

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Jan 11, 2006
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hi everyone. i am refreshing my top end with a newly rebuilt set of e7te's and 1.7 roller rockers, gaskets, etc etc. . i have taken down the upper & lower intake before so that is no problem. then head removal/cleanup/installation should be no big challenge as well. i have some help so i will have an extra set of hands. where i am uncertain is installing the rocker arms. i read that i need to rotate the egine to tdc etc etc. any tips or advice from someone who has done this? ( hopefully several times?? ) anything i should avoid or be certain to do? thanks.
 
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This was posted a few times by Micheal Young

Here is the proper installation procedure --

To install pedestal mount rockers:

1) For each pair (int/exh) be sure you rotate the engine so the lifters are on the base circle of the cam - this is very important. When you install the rockers, both valves must remain closed. Neither lifter can be on any part of the cam lobe - they MUST be on the base circle.
2) Install the rocker and bolt it down to zero lash. Zero lash is reached just when you eliminate the gap between the pushrod and the rocker and the valve stem and the rocker. Tighten with one hand and 'rock' the rocker with the other hand. Just when you reach the point that you can't rock the rocker anymore you're at zero lash.
3) Now - put your torque wrench on it and tighten to 18-20 ft-lbs. while counting the number of turns it takes to reach that torque. It should occur between 1/4 turns and 1 turn. If it takes more than one turn, use a shim to raise the rocker. For each .030" shim you use, you'll reduce the number of turns to torque by about 1/4. If it takes less than 1/4 turn, or you have trouble reaching zero lash even with the bolt torqued all the way to 18-20, then you need longer pushrods.
4) If all goes well on the install, crank it up. If some make noise let the car warm up completely. Then (unfortunately) go back through the install procedure with the components warm. That will usually quiet them down.

Mine has 11 with no shims at all, 4 with one .030" shim, and one with 2 .030" shims. And I had to do the final install with it hot to get them quiet. That approach has them all hitting the required torque within 1/2 to 3/4 turns.

I have a Buddy Rawls custom cam with steeper than stock ramp rates, 1.7 roller rockers (pedestal Cobra type), and stock lifters. It runs just about as quiet as it did stock.
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that is the long and complicated way but the right way i guess. ive had my rockers off and on atleast 3 times. take them off and just put them back on and tighten them down. torque them to 20 ft/lbs. ive never had a single problem out of mine. as long as they are stock style bolt on 1.7 rockers. if they arent that have fun
 
dragnazz5.0 said:
that is the long and complicated way but the right way i guess. ive had my rockers off and on atleast 3 times. take them off and just put them back on and tighten them down. torque them to 20 ft/lbs. ive never had a single problem out of mine. as long as they are stock style bolt on 1.7 rockers. if they arent that have fun
Same here, that what I did. There isn't any adustment without shimming the rocker mounts, so putting stock head, cam & pushrods back on shouldn't need any special attention.
 
-=Red5.0GT=- said:
I believe he is using 1.7's so that wouldn't be stock... there for he might need shims to make it work :D

but its still a stock style bolt on rocker instead of a stud mount rocker. there is no need to shim a stock style rocker unless you shaved the head way down or the installed height of the valve spring is higher than stock...but than youd have to use different valves and well it would be worthless on stock heads.