setting my timing for the first time - tips, advice?

90lxfoxbody

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Jan 11, 2006
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title pretty much says it all. have new bocsh platinum plugs, new fms high output ignition coil, new taylor vertex plug wires, new procomp billet distributor. have the distributor set in and the car is running. now i want to set my timing. i could take it to a shop and pay $50 - but i want to learn how to do it myself. so i bought a new timing light and am ready to go. the basics are pretty obvious.

start car, run it until it gets war, shut it off.

remove the little spout connector

mark timing lights with chalk so they are easy to read ( especially for my blind ass )

attach hot lead on timing light to pos battery post, attach the plastic clamp thingis to the #1 plug and make sure it is seated good

.....

so at this point what exactly am i looking for?

"point the timing light at the pulley timing marks and note whwether the specified timing mark is aligned with the timing pointer"

so will the number that the timing is currently set at stand out with the light shining on it? then i just rotate the dist to achieve the right timing, tighten it back down and haul ass?

so another questions, what is the recommended timing for my car? 12 degrees, 14 possibly? i know it depends on the engine setup.

any input will be helpful. i will do a burnout in your honor.

wait, i am getting new tires soon so the ones i have now must be sacrificed. burnouts for everyone.
 
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well, going by your user name, i'm gonna take a WAG and say you have a '90 LX with a 5.0. if that is so, press 1...just kidding. usually between 10-14 is a good base timing setting...you might have to change it a few times just to experiment and get the best performance

Josh
 
first step, throw those plugs in the garbage and get some autolites. you should be able to see the marks without using the chalk. if you cant you need to spray some cleaner on the balancer. stand on the passenger side of the car and point the light at the balancer. clockwise is advance, counter is retard. im able to run 14* on 87.
 
A simple tip: The SPOUT connector should be either in your pocket or plugged into the harness. Don't lay the little bugger down on the car or it will run away from home to join the Circus. That's what mine did one time... :D

I had a spare from a trip to the junkyard, but you might not be so blessed.
 
okie dokie. i've been running bosch platinum for a long time with no issues at all, but if three gearheads in a row recommend autolites, then i'll definitely give them a try. are you talking about the plain copper core autolites that come with the .54 gap? and btw the timing is now set at 14* and the idle is perfect. starts easy and idles great. i have an aftermarket fluid filled balancer and the marks are stamped into the black metal so i had to hit it with a piece of chalk, then it was easy to read the numbers. much easier than i anticipated it to be. i love learning how to do new mechanic stuff. one less thing i have to someone else to do!
 
Autolite plugs for a stock application are 25's.

if you have not had issues with the plats, I dont see a big reason to swap them (though I agree with the other guys). Plat does not conduct nearly as well as annealed copper, and that is why guys like the stock (25's) plugs. On a motor that takes 2 days to swap plugs, plat away. :) Stangs are not like that (normally).

The gap spec should be 0.052-0.056".

Good luck.