i found it for $225 on partshopper....ski said:
http://www.partshopper.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=297&catid=
Does anyone have any input on this CAI
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http://www.partshopper.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=297&catid=
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Black2006GT
New Member
DON'T experiment
My advice . . . go with a known good setup. I have the C&L cai with the sct2 tuner and it is worth every penny. I have been tweaking Stangs for over 20 years and I have learned to let other people be the guinnea pig
I have also learned that you get what you pay for.
On the plastic/aluminum issue . . . it works both ways. Plastic doesn't retain heat like a chunk of aluminum, but it doesn't insulate as well either. Sudden under hood temp changes, like a good 1320 ft romping, will heat the plastic quicker than aluminum. I guess it is a matter of opinion, but I think the aluminum tubes (which Do have a bigger MAF housing) are gonna be the best performers.
p.s. If you are not able to spend $650 for some real performance, just wait until you are. You'll be sorry you didn't buy the best
My advice . . . go with a known good setup. I have the C&L cai with the sct2 tuner and it is worth every penny. I have been tweaking Stangs for over 20 years and I have learned to let other people be the guinnea pig
I have also learned that you get what you pay for.
On the plastic/aluminum issue . . . it works both ways. Plastic doesn't retain heat like a chunk of aluminum, but it doesn't insulate as well either. Sudden under hood temp changes, like a good 1320 ft romping, will heat the plastic quicker than aluminum. I guess it is a matter of opinion, but I think the aluminum tubes (which Do have a bigger MAF housing) are gonna be the best performers.
p.s. If you are not able to spend $650 for some real performance, just wait until you are. You'll be sorry you didn't buy the best
ski said:
Huh?.. What?
Air to Aluminum? Both cases is the same... flow reversed. Period.
My point was that the Aluminum pipe will not transfer as much heat as the intercooler because of less surface area contact to the flowing air, and less turbulance.
I was supplementing your statement with an agreement incase someone was to argue that an Intercooler tranfers heat and its aluminum.
Just to clear a few things up.
Aluminum is a "super conductor" and a "heat sink" meaning it's the 3rd fastest metal to absorb heat and transfere it. (gold and silver are 1&2)
So if it absorbs the heat fast then transferes it... Where is it transfering it to?? The air passing through it.
The marketing tool of "air is going through it so fast it doesn't heat up" is not so.
If you can't touch the pipe because it's hot, the air going through it will be hotter then a pipe that is cool to the touch. This is fact.
Plastic is not going to heat up faster then aluminum. it's fact not hear say.
Why do you see people at the drags with ice on there aluminum intakes?? To cool them down and inturn cool down the air passing through it.
So if the statment "air's passing through it too fast to absorb the heat" were true, why do we ice our aluminum intakes??
Would the same hold true for the cool temp of the intake?
I'm not here to knock C&L, heck they did fantastic in the 5.0 shootout and I admire there companeis achivements in this market.
Yes, the thought of a $500-$600 CAI is crazy, but with this new GT it's just the way it is.
Then you have the tuner for all future mods, headers, off road pipe, gear changes and so on.
Plus you get the added benifit of BETTER THROTTLE RESPONCE.
I know this something that all owners would like. My F-150 was the same way and I hated it. now with the tune all is great.
Plus, automatic cars will get much firmer shifts.
If you go for a kit that will not need a tune, your gettnig a $300+ kit and all most half the HP& TQ gains. Not to mention all the other benifits of the tuner.
This is a good option for many and I understand that, but for all out power and customability the CAI/X2 is the way to go. Better yet, the JLT/X2 is the best way to go.
Thanks
Jay
Aluminum is a "super conductor" and a "heat sink" meaning it's the 3rd fastest metal to absorb heat and transfere it. (gold and silver are 1&2)
So if it absorbs the heat fast then transferes it... Where is it transfering it to?? The air passing through it.
The marketing tool of "air is going through it so fast it doesn't heat up" is not so.
If you can't touch the pipe because it's hot, the air going through it will be hotter then a pipe that is cool to the touch. This is fact.
Plastic is not going to heat up faster then aluminum. it's fact not hear say.
Why do you see people at the drags with ice on there aluminum intakes?? To cool them down and inturn cool down the air passing through it.
So if the statment "air's passing through it too fast to absorb the heat" were true, why do we ice our aluminum intakes??
Would the same hold true for the cool temp of the intake?
I'm not here to knock C&L, heck they did fantastic in the 5.0 shootout and I admire there companeis achivements in this market.
Yes, the thought of a $500-$600 CAI is crazy, but with this new GT it's just the way it is.
Then you have the tuner for all future mods, headers, off road pipe, gear changes and so on.
Plus you get the added benifit of BETTER THROTTLE RESPONCE.
I know this something that all owners would like. My F-150 was the same way and I hated it. now with the tune all is great.Plus, automatic cars will get much firmer shifts.
If you go for a kit that will not need a tune, your gettnig a $300+ kit and all most half the HP& TQ gains. Not to mention all the other benifits of the tuner.
This is a good option for many and I understand that, but for all out power and customability the CAI/X2 is the way to go. Better yet, the JLT/X2 is the best way to go.
Thanks
Jay
I misinterpreted your intent. Sorry 'bout that.Kyle F said:Huh?.. What?
Air to Aluminum? Both cases is the same... flow reversed. Period.
My point was that the Aluminum pipe will not transfer as much heat as the intercooler because of less surface area contact to the flowing air, and less turbulance.
I was supplementing your statement with an agreement incase someone was to argue that an Intercooler tranfers heat and its aluminum.
You forgot to include the all important time factor variable, i.e., the amount of heat that's transferred to each cubic foot of air while it's flowing thru the intake, which is miniscule. This falls in line with my previous comment "Because the airflow velocity inside the intake is so high that the air does not have sufficient time to absorb any amount of heat from the intake's walls in order to reduce engine performance."JLTucker said:
I've heard that trick is worth only a few hundredths of a second in the quarter mile at best, which means the benefit of a plastic intake that may be a few degrees cooler then an aluminum one would be nil.JLTucker said:
If you were at WOT all the time I could say this statment is plausable, but most of the time your throttle blade is only slightly open, ie crusing at speed, idling at a light or in the staging lanes waiting to run.
Key words: I've heard
Fact is heat is a performance killer. The cooler you can make the inlet air the more power you will make. This is proven fact, sorry if you disagree.
Prove it to yourself. Next time your at the track or on the dyno. Do 3 hot laps with no cool down. I bet your times and HP will get worse.
Now, do 3 runs with ample cool down and ice on your intake inbetween. You WILL see better #'s and times.
It works everytime, I've done it at the track and on the dyno. The cooler you can make the incoming air the more oxygen the air will have the faster it will burn and the more power you WILL make.
The idea is to eliminate parts that will add heat to the motor. Plastic is the best choice for doing this. Why did Ford make there intakes from plastic after 1995?
Please understand I'm not trying to argue, but to get the facts out there. I do understand you wanting to defend the kit you have, it's a great kit, but I stand behind the facts. You can't take away the physical properities of metals.
Jay
For the 4.6L Mustang GT engine, the air velocity inside a 4" diameter intake tube at 750 rpm idle speed is 11.6 fps, which translates to 17 hundredths of a second contact time for a 2 foot long tube. Cruising at 1500 rpm in overdrive drops the contact time to 85 thousandths of a second. Not a whole bunch of time for the air to pick up any appreciable amount of heat from a hot conduit, or for that matter to give up any appreciable heat to a cool conduit.JLTucker said:
Now you're talking about a completely different situation. The entire engine is being allowed to cool down, which in turn decreases the temperature of the air surrounding the engine, and will thus allow cooler air to be inhaled by the engine. I agree that doing this will definitely improve times and hp, but it will do so even without icing down the intake.JLTucker said:
On the other hand, all I stated was that icing down the intake is worth only a few thousandths in the 1/4.
In order to reduce costs. Fabricating an intake manifold from plastic is less costly than making it from either aluminum or cast iron.JLTucker said:
Last summer I turned off the engine after a hard run with the ambient temp around 90 F, and felt both the aluminum C&L intake and the plastic intake manifold. The C&L was just slightly warm to the touch(immediately adjacent to the throttle body), and the entire manifold was hot.
Same here. I always enjoy having a friendly debate.
I selected a 4" tube for simplicity, because its internal area is approximately the same as that for a C&L, which starts out at approx. 4", decreases to 3", and finally increases to a 3" x 5" oval. This translates to an avg. x-sectional area that's actually slightly less than that of a 4" I.D. tube, and thus the C&L's internal air velocity and air-to-intake wall contact time are actually faster and shorter, respectively, when compared to a 4" I.D. tube. And we both know that's good for keeping the inlet air cool.
I selected a 4" tube for simplicity, because its internal area is approximately the same as that for a C&L, which starts out at approx. 4", decreases to 3", and finally increases to a 3" x 5" oval. This translates to an avg. x-sectional area that's actually slightly less than that of a 4" I.D. tube, and thus the C&L's internal air velocity and air-to-intake wall contact time are actually faster and shorter, respectively, when compared to a 4" I.D. tube. And we both know that's good for keeping the inlet air cool.
I really enjoyed the debate also! That is just what I was wanting in this thread.
I am going to go with the JLT II Intake/XCal2 with Fred from Evolution Performance. Unless anyone has any further suggestions or advise.
I am pretty sure I will get the Flowmaster axle backs ($275) and a Steeda Underdrive Pulley System ($199.95) as the three first mods to my GT. If anyone might have any advice or comments I would appreciate it. Thanks!!
I am going to go with the JLT II Intake/XCal2 with Fred from Evolution Performance. Unless anyone has any further suggestions or advise.
I am pretty sure I will get the Flowmaster axle backs ($275) and a Steeda Underdrive Pulley System ($199.95) as the three first mods to my GT. If anyone might have any advice or comments I would appreciate it. Thanks!!
red05bullitgt
Member
If what you claim is true...then explain to me, why your kit retails for around $185.00? as compared to the C&L that retails for around $399.00..seems to me if you're material costs are more expensive, along with your labor costs also being higher, then it boils down to one of two things..Either you're facts are completly way off, or your obviously cutting you're own throat, by giving your customers one hell of a discount, and I'm sorry, but what you claim, just does not add up nor make any sense, after all.. nobody is that generous, and lets just say that even if you were.. how could you make enough of a profit to survive ?? just my &.02 I supposeJ DeMolet said:
fullsagd
New Member
JLTucker said:...Aluminum is a "super conductor" and a "heat sink" meaning it's the 3rd fastest metal to absorb heat and transfere it. (gold and silver are 1&2)
So if it absorbs the heat fast then transferes it... Where is it transfering it to?? The air passing through it.
The marketing tool of "air is going through it so fast it doesn't heat up" is not so.
If you can't touch the pipe because it's hot, the air going through it will be hotter then a pipe that is cool to the touch. This is fact.
Plastic is not going to heat up faster then aluminum. it's fact not hear say.
Why do you see people at the drags with ice on there aluminum intakes?? To cool them down and inturn cool down the air passing through it.
So if the statment "air's passing through it too fast to absorb the heat" were true, why do we ice our aluminum intakes??
Would the same hold true for the cool temp of the intake?
thermal conductivity values
Ag=429
Cu=401
Au=317
Al=237
(W/m K)
basically, a heat sink in thermodynamics is the "colder" body that the "hot" body gives up energy to. take, for instance, a condenser in a power generating station. the heat sink is the cooling water, not the condenser itself.
the heat transfer to the fluid is dependent on velocity (among other factors) so the aluminum tranfser medium will heat the air more readily than plastic although the plastic will not dissipate heat at the rate that aluminum does.
there are some plastics manufactured today that have a higher thermal conductivity that Al, but you wouldn't find them in air intakes.
not trying to be a smart @$$, just trying to shed some light.
ramjetlx
New Member
ramjetlx
New Member
ramjetlx
New Member
red05bullitgt said:If what you claim is true...then explain to me, why your kit retails for around $185.00? as compared to the C&L that retails for around $399.00..seems to me if you're material costs are more expensive, along with your labor costs also being higher, then it boils down to one of two things..Either you're facts are completly way off, or your obviously cutting you're own throat, by giving your customers one hell of a discount, and I'm sorry, but what you claim, just does not add up nor make any sense, after all.. nobody is that generous, and lets just say that even if you were.. how could you make enough of a profit to survive ?? just my &.02 I suppose
I totally support the Tunable Induction kit with an SCT tune. For the money its well worth every penny. Check out my sig for my best time with just this kit!!! And I know Im having traction issues and can go lower. Last week I saw a guy running a JLTII with SCT tune on his stock 05. His best was a 13.8. 60 foot was a 2.0 with average reaction times in the high .500's. Now that would really piss me off to spend alot of money and run only a 13.8 with a manual, when Im using the Tuneable Induction kit and busting out 13.4's in an automatic, with the potential to go even lower. We can all brag about dyno numbers and how the JLTII and C&L are the best out of everyone, but the most important thing is how it does in the real world. I believe dyno's are effective at selling, but my vote for the best bang for the buck CAI goes to this Tuneable Induction kit. I have real world expirance to back it up and do not ever regret getting it.
Evo Performance
Member
ramjetlx said:
My 2005 Mustang GT Automatic ran a 13.6 completely BONE stock (400 Miles on the odometer!) With the addition of a JLT Intake, an Evolution Performance Custom Tuned XCal2, 4:30 Gears, Panhard Bar/Brace, and a 3rd Link (Upper Control Arm), I was able to hit 12.82 @108 on stock tires!
I guess the Tunable Induction kit with an "Amateur" Custom SCT tune isn't that great......... 13.4's??? I give it a
Evo Performance said:I guess the Tunable Induction kit with an "Amateur" Custom SCT tune isn't that great......... 13.4's??? I give it a
Hey your taking out the largest factor... the driver.
Running a manual also affets this more. I guess it really depends on how much that intake worked for him based off how much of an improvement he made over his previous runs
The Dyno is not good for selling, under proper testing conditions it takes driver erro out of the equation and can give you quantifiable measurements to the changes.
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