What are the differences btw the clutch/break pedal assembly

[Dr_Pain]

What are the differences btw the powered vs. non-powered clutch/break pedal '67/'68

I know it is another one of the automatic to manual conversion question but the search on the subject came empty.

I have a 68 fastback power-assist break car and am doing the conversion from automatic to manual. I have been looking around and understand that there is a difference between the power-assist and non-powered break/clutch pedal assembly. My question is what are they?? and can a non-powered set up be easily converted to power assist?? (i.e. can I use my power-assist break and switch it with the non-powered??

The second question is does someone have a power-assist set up for sale?? If you do, please contact me.

Claude

 

[S-Car-Go]

I'm pretty sure the manual brake pedal pivots on the clutch pivot (does that make sense?). I mean the clutch pedal supports the brake pedal. The power brake pedal pivots on a seperate 3/8" bolt at the top of the support. I'm just finishing up a 68 C4 to T5 conversion myself. I have power discs and plan on keeping them.
See mustangsteve.com for parts and a quality clutch cable set up. When converting your pedal hanger for a clutch pedal, don't forget a clutch stop.

Ask me how I know

 

[Dr_Pain]

Love the handle.....S-Car-Go

Thanks for the reply and link. I am not quite sure that I understand if you are telling me about how to modify the hanger I have or what the differences are. If you are modifying it, do you have pictures to show me what you are talking about??

Claude

 

[5.0ina66]

The manual pedal pad is skinnier than the auto. Grab your angle grinder and get to work

 

[Jsprint68]

The power brake pedal is longer and mounts higher on the support bracket than the manual brake pedal does. If you cant find a manual trans power brake pedal then you can just cut the part that the rubber pad goes on. This part of the pedal that your foot pushes on is narrower on the manual trans pedal in order to clear the clutch pedal. Otherwise they are identical!

 

[Dr_Pain]

Can a manual non-powered pedal be used with a powered disc brake setup??

I understand now that the physical dimension of the pad itself is bigger with the automatic setup and I am sure that it is no big deal to cut it down a bit but can a clutch be added to the automatic braketery without too much difficulties?? If someone has some pictures of that particular fabrication, it would be greatly appreciated

If you cannot retrofit to the existing bracketery, what are my options to maintain the power brakes

 

[LMan]

Keep your power-brake pedal....and trim off enough of its metal with a cutoff wheel to fit the clutch pedal next to it. That way you don't have to 'retrofit' anything, you already have the right pedal for the job.

That's what 5.0ina66 is trying to tell you.

 

[Jsprint68]

You will notice two large aluminum looking bushings on the main support bracket. These bushings are the ones that are utilized by the clutch pedal and/or the manual brake pedal. If you have the power brake support and had an automatic trans then these bushings should be like new. The shaft on the clutch pedal will slide right in but don’t forget to install the plastic inserts or they will quickly ware out.

This is an automatic manual brake support but the red arrow points to were the power brake pedal mounts. The manual brake pedal is still attached on this support. The shaft is also there and going through the pedal. This is where the clutch pedal mounts.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Alright....... Let me see if I have this right

The difference between the powered and non-powered assembly is in the location of the pivot point for the brake pedal. In a non-powered, the brake pedal and clutch pivot on the same axis, whereas the powered brake articulate on a 3/8" bolt instead of pivoting on the same axis as the clutch.

The braketery is the same for both (so I should have the right stuff in my car already) and a clutch can be slipped in the assembly provided you make sure that you have the bushing and inserts installed.

So far, the only modification needed is to grind down the powered brake pedal and add a clutch stop.... RIGHT????

If that is the case, why was I looking to spend $190 on ebay for a whole different setup??

Please confirm or debunc the above statements.....

Claude
P.S. Thanks for the picture. That really helps!!! If you have pictures of the different set ups and hangers, please feel free to email or post them. I am sure that there are other people like me around.

 

[LMan]

If that is the case, why was I looking to spend $190 on ebay for a whole different setup??

Can't help you with that one

 

[Dr_Pain]

I need somebody to confirm my assumptions above and thanks for not laughing at my ignorance.

If someone as an extra clutch pedal around, contact me

Claude

 

[5.0ina66]

There are 4 different brake pedals:

Manual brakes & Manual trans
Manual brakes & Auto Trans
Power Brakes & Auto trans
Power brakes & manual trans (most expensive to find)

A PB pedal is a PB pedal, the manual trans pedals had a skinnier pad.

I hope that clears up waht I said earlier
--Kyle

 

[S-Car-Go]

Thanks.

No one makes a reproduction 67/8 clutch pedal so they're kinda rare, or at least in demand.

The clutch pedal has a tab that is folded over in front. When the pedal is released, it comes up and will bang into the support. Metal on metal. A piece of thick rubber needs to go between. Shim it to adjust the pedal hieght.

 

[Route666]

Alright....... Let me see if I have this right

The difference between the powered and non-powered assembly is in the location of the pivot point for the brake pedal. In a non-powered, the brake pedal and clutch pivot on the same axis, whereas the powered brake articulate on a 3/8" bolt instead of pivoting on the same axis as the clutch.

The braketery is the same for both (so I should have the right stuff in my car already) and a clutch can be slipped in the assembly provided you make sure that you have the bushing and inserts installed.

So far, the only modification needed is to grind down the powered brake pedal and add a clutch stop.... RIGHT????

If that is the case, why was I looking to spend $190 on ebay for a whole different setup??

Please confirm or debunc the above statements.....

Claude
P.S. Thanks for the picture. That really helps!!! If you have pictures of the different set ups and hangers, please feel free to email or post them. I am sure that there are other people like me around.

That's pretty much it, power brake hangs from higher, whereas manual hangs from the clutch pedal pivot rod.

The point of that is so the brake pushrod is the same height with different pedal ratios for power and manual.

With regards to grinding the brake pedal, the ones I've seen (looking at 69s) have a cutout semi-circle to make room for the clutch pivot rod. I'm not sure whether they are any thicker than auto pedals though. (to make up for the notch)

 

[Dr_Pain]

Cool.... I think I got it!!!! I do have a friend with a 67 (manual) so I will look at his hanger and brake pedal (to see if it is notched) and will be on the lookout for a individual clutch pedal..... the holy grail of pedals from what you are telling me.

Claude

 

[Jsprint68]

My 68 brake pedal isn’t notched but I also have a 1970 auto PB pedal and it is notched. I think the thickness of the pedal is the same with there being two areas that had grinding done at the factory.

 

[Dr_Pain]

I was suggested to look into the 69 clutch pedals also... anybody knows the years of compatibility with those clutch pedals???

 

[Jsprint68]

My 68 brake pedal isn’t notched but I also have a 1970 auto PB pedal and it is notched. I think the thickness of the pedal is the same with there being two areas that had grinding done at the factory.

I looked at that 1970 pedal and all of the basic dimensions are the same as the 68 pedal. The differences I found were,

1. One grind spot in the area that might come in contact with the clutch lever shaft.
2. One grind area a little lower than the previous that might be there to clear the lower dash.
3. Stud for the brake light switch is in a slightly different location (approx. ½” higher).
4. There is also no extension where a rubber bumper is attach that I guess limits the travel of the pedal.