HELP with parts list PLEASE

03REDFIRE

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Apr 3, 2004
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1994 GT BBK Cold air thats all for mods currently.

Hi thanks for your help Im going to order these parts and doing the work myself (1st timer).
I would like someone to look at the parts Im ordering and verify Im getting the right stuff and NOT forgetting anything.
Is this all I need to do the swap on a intake I choose 75mm Hope thats right?

Will this be all I need to do the swap did I forget anything I dont want to start working and find out Im missing something.

Intake Manifold, Street EFI, Aluminum, Black Powdercoated, Multi-Port, Ford, Mustang, 5.0L, Kit
TFS-51511001 $404


Throttle Body Adapter, Aluminum, Black Powdercoated, Ford Mustang, Each TFS-5150SN95-11 $98

Ford Mustang EFI 75 MM Throttle body 94-95 302 5.0 L
PP-69212 - New Professional Products 75mm POWER Throttle Body $129

BBK Gripp Tubular Strut Tower Brace for 94-03 Mustang #2516 $114
 
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You'll need a new lower intake to cyl head gasket set for when you remove your lower, and some sealer for the water jackets and front/rear of the block (lifter valleys). Might need some scrapers or scotchbright pads to clean up the old surfaces. Its never a bad idea to replace things like heater hoses or the thermostat while your at it, but not necessary. You'll want anti-seize around for any bolts that go into alum. That's all I can think of..just woke up
 
Davin pretty much covered it all. A couple things I'll add are, you'll need a torque wrench, that lower needs to be torqued down, and in a certain sequence. You might want to have some miscellaneous vacuum hose laying around, it's a good chance you'll break some upon disassembly. A new PCV valve and grommet are a good idea while you have the lower off. You can pick these up at parts stores for like $5 or something. Since you're replacing the throttle body, you're gonna need a DMM (digital voltmeter) to make sure the TPS (throttle position sensor) is set right when you swap it over (it's a little sensor on the throttle body that tells the computer what position the throttle is). You might also want a timing light to verify the timing when you put it back together. You'll need to pull the distributor to remove the lower intake. You can simply mark it, but this is often not good enough, and your timing will still be a few degrees off upon reinstallation. That's all I can think of right now.
 
CMan brings up a good point about the torquing. If you are using the stock bolts that are already stretched, getting everything even will take a lot longer..I recomend spending the extra $20 and getting an ARP lower intake bolt kit. The wrenching will be a lot easier and there will be less chance of blowing a gasket later..BTW do you know HOW to do this or do you need tips. I was under the impression that you were just checking your shopping list?
 
Davin said:
..BTW do you know HOW to do this or do you need tips. I was under the impression that you were just checking your shopping list?

Baby steps :rolleyes:
Im ordering these parts this week and my original plan is to do it myself so Im just trying to verify I have everything before I start. Nothing worse then starting something you just have no chance of finishing. I have never done anything past a carb waterpump or alternater on a old chevy so this will be a learning lesson.
Tips would be great .
Your time is appreciated!
 
your first time it might take a few hours. now that i have had it on and off a few time i could probobly swap one in an hour. its really not hard. if you do get stuck plenty of people here have done them, someone will be able to help.