Setting TPS ?? ...SORRY!! HELP PLZ!

[xkuntrycowboyx]

K.. WHEN i go to set my TPS..
car idling, or just key on?
which 2 wires to use, which is pos/grnd?

after finding and setting proper voltage... do i need to disconnect the pos/neg battery lead for a while. or use my scanner to reset competer codes or what?

 

[xkuntrycowboyx]

and guys, i did do a search and everything for an old article i know explaind this well, but i can't find it... sorry for another post on this, but its a nice day and i need to get er done

 

[legalize420]

from what i have read in the past, our computer resets the tps every time you start the car.

 

[final5-0]

If you can get it anywhere between .85 & .95 you should be good to go as far as I'm concerned.

Grady

 

[Guero]

yeah its pretty easy just dont take it off and throw it if cant get it to work lol

 

[gcomfx.com]

http://www.allfordmustangs.com//Detailed/581.shtml

For some reason there is a problem with the other article on there.

 

[HISSIN50]

This link might have some ancillary info for you.

IN theory what Legalize said is true. Some peeps still swear by dialing it in. I say, why not - it doesnt cost anything.

I would set it to the specs that Grady listed.

DO be sure to use the ground wire supplied to the TPS. It might be more resistive than a clean, non-resistive ground, and you want to set the reading using the inputs that the TPS itself uses.

Good luck.

 

[Rootus]

I have proven that it does not matter -- as long as the TPS gives a linear voltage change as you change throttle position, you're golden. Don't take my word for it, though -- anybody on this board with a TwEECer can duplicate my test. Log TPS voltage and throttle position, and see the voltages where closed throttle, part throttle, and wide open throttle occur.

Dave

 

[RyClef331]

I have proven that it does not matter -- as long as the TPS gives a linear voltage change as you change throttle position, you're golden. Don't take my word for it, though -- anybody on this board with a TwEECer can duplicate my test. Log TPS voltage and throttle position, and see the voltages where closed throttle, part throttle, and wide open throttle occur.

Dave

I bought into that thinking for about two days when I was troubleshooting a surging / hanging idle. When I shot the wires on the TPS, its was reading 2.94v....key on/engine off. If you got a screwed up idle, check the voltage regardless. Its its CLOSE, cool...but the computer isn't going to compensate for 2 full volts off.

 

[HISSIN50]

Going further with what Dave said, one of two things *should* happen (I say this still feeling that there is nothing wrong with toying with the TPS):

1. The puter will zero out the reading.
2. As in the case above, a limit code should be tossed since the TPS reading was out of the tolerance/adaptive limit.

Simply stated, the puter calibrates the reading if it can, and if it cant due to the magnitude of the reading, it spits code(s).

 

[final5-0]

Good thread and good info from all

In the past, I've told peeps to not worry about setting the tps on our cars like the fox folks because the pcm is not the same and bla, bla, bla.

Atter some while, I saw this myth was not gonna go away

I, as well as others on this site (JT ) started to tell peeps to go ahead and set it because it was not gonna hurt anything.

The thing I see often in threads where peeps are striving for that magical .98 or .99 volt closed value is they often encounter these kinds of things:

lost, broken, damaged tps screws
damaged throttle body screw threads
broken or damaged tps
etc

All the above when, if the truth be made known

Nothing wrong in the first place in most of those cases

Seems to me, the first thing one should do before anything becomes broken or damaged is

Check the tps for correct operation. I'd check for two things.

1) Closed voltage anywhere in the .85 to .95 range should be O K. If it is over 1.00 you may have a prob.

2) Like Dave said, you want to make sure the tps gives smooth change from closed to wot with no dead spots.

If 1 & 2 is like above ...... STEP AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE

Before you hose around and break something

Grady

 

[HISSIN50]

Well put Grady. I didnt ever think about people screwing up the TPS/TPS hardware/wiring etc while doing this - telling people to knock it off (like you and Dave are) is probably the best solution. I should reformat my thoughts on that whole thing.

I could add that on the fox (I know we hate fox and 5N95 comparisons, but it is kinda' relative since the fox zeroes at start-up as well), I have my TPS base-lining at 1.15 volts and it seems to do fine. It was like that when I got it and I dont get a limit code so I left it.

 

[final5-0]

Well put Grady. I didnt ever think about people screwing up the TPS/TPS hardware/wiring etc while doing this - telling people to knock it off (like you and Dave are) is probably the best solution. I should reformat my thoughts on that whole thing.

I could add that on the fox (I know we hate fox and 5N95 comparisons, but it is kinda' relative since the fox zeroes at start-up as well), I have my TPS base-lining at 1.15 volts and it seems to do fine. It was like that when I got it and I dont get a limit code so I left it.

JT

I still think we have not been wrong in telling peeps to set it if they think they need to.

I just said that stuff due to threads that come up regularly on our forum where something gets hosed up while chasing the .99 volt fox value.

Who knows, maybe we can save some other 94-95 Stanger a little heartache and grief with this info

Grady

 

[Rootus]

I bought into that thinking for about two days when I was troubleshooting a surging / hanging idle. When I shot the wires on the TPS, its was reading 2.94v....key on/engine off. If you got a screwed up idle, check the voltage regardless. Its its CLOSE, cool...but the computer isn't going to compensate for 2 full volts off.

You should have gotten a MIL, or at the very least a stored code, for that kind of TPS malfunction.

Dave

 

[xkuntrycowboyx]

K guys, i'll update. I was in a hurry, so thanks for the info, but i didn't even get a chance to read this before i left for home.
But i got that all ford mustang tech article.
The reason i was gonna set it, was i put it on a new snap-on scanner that the tech school was using, it gave me a bunch of stuff, but one was low tps voltage.
Over break i checked it, it was at 0.80~0.81 so i took it and got it set as far as i could, and the most i could get was 0.935~0.94 going back and forth, so that's good enough for me, im not gonna bore the holes.

I test drove before and after. was a good difference after, hanging idle hasnt showed up since, and acceleration is a lil better. now i gotta rescan and see if it took care of some other associated probs or not.
Thanks for the good info
I agree with Grady, about breakin things. but i got the low voltage on the scan so i went for it, but i wouldn't go boring holes like that tech article suggests from allfordmustnags...