Brake Gurus come in...swaped calipers, rotors, rear cyliders, Hard High Pegal????????

gruvee87vertgt

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Oct 7, 2003
272
26
28
Chicago, Il
Hi, thanx for reading this.


I swapped front calipers and rotors and master cylinder and replaced both rar cylinders in my drum brakes.

Now the pedal gets stiff at stays high..in other words its hard to push down... unless I press on the gas. it's seems it only gets stiff when the car is about to stop.

my question is will I might fix this if i bleed the brakes again? thanx
 
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So front Bullitt rotors and calipers.
SS Lines
Stock Drum rear brakes with new wheel cylinders.
What Master cylinder?
What brake booster?

With larger front calipers, with larger or more pistons, they will require more fluid. The rear wheel cylinders will not. When you press the brake pedal, the pressure builds up in the back before it can activate the front. If your running the stock master cylinder, it probally doesn't feed the front enough anyways.
 
90mustangGT said:
So front Bullitt rotors and calipers.
SS Lines
Stock Drum rear brakes with new wheel cylinders.
What Master cylinder?
What brake booster?

With larger front calipers, with larger or more pistons, they will require more fluid. The rear wheel cylinders will not. When you press the brake pedal, the pressure builds up in the back before it can activate the front. If your running the stock master cylinder, it probally doesn't feed the front enough anyways.
:nice:
What MC and booster did you use?

You might be able to get by with SN95 MC and booster with a adjustable proportioning valve, but I HIGHLY doubt that will work. You really need to do rear disc conversion and add the SN95 components to do it right (along with the adjustable proprtioning valve)
 
sounds like it could be a vaccuum/booster problem since the pedal gets stiff when you are coming to a stop(engine at idle), but with your list of mods i dont see this as being a problem?