Did i need a Starter spacer?

[65notch]

i just did the t-5 swap in my 65 coupe 289. i went from the c4 to the t5z... am i going to need a spacer or anthing for this starter or should it be fine?

 

[LMan]

should be fine, if you use a T-5 block plate. The block plate is essential to properly space the starter.

 

[65notch]

i thick is the block plate? the only thing i have is the plate thats about the same size the one off the c4 was.

 

[LMan]

Its about the same thickness (SWAG). Do you *have* a T-5 block plate? I cant tell from your answer.

 

[65notch]

i do believe i have a block plate. the kit i got from modern drivelines says it is, so i would imagine im ok

 

[65notch]

i contacted mondern driveline...i do have a block plate. so i bolted up the starter. then tried to turn the crank, it wouldnt budge...long story short..the starter pressed up againts the flywheel and kept it from moving.
anybody have this problem?

 

[LMan]

What starter do you have? Could it be from another application other than a C4?

Is the flywheel installed correctly?


Something's wrong, since everyone and his brother (inc me) uses the C4 starter in a T-5 conversion and it works fine. At least, until this thread...

 

[McFairmont]

Do you know what flywheel you have? On my 85 Mustang 5.0, I replaced the original 157 tooth flywheel with an earlier style McLeod 164 tooth unit. My McLeod scattershield has both bolt patterns, to work with either size flywheel, but the 164 tooth flywheel has the ring gear located further foreward, which caused the starter drive to be engaged with the flywheel ring gear at all times. I ended up replacing my Mustang starter with a 302 pickup truck starter, which corrected the problem.
Another possibility, is that the older cars had a different starter for standard transmissions than automatics. Back in 1978, I converted my 1970 Mustang (351C 4v) from an automatic, to a toploader 4 speed. My original FMX starter "bottomed out" in the bellhousing, with the starters mounting flange about 1/4-3/8" away from the block plate. I temperaily shimmed the starter out with wahers, but the nose piece soon cracked & broke off. The stick starter had a shorter "snout" where it went into the bellhousing. I`ll bet you have one of these situations.

 

[65notch]

the starter is an autolite from CSK, so its probably not to accurate anyways. the flywheel is in correctly. its the housing of the starter that is touching the flywheel. im sure if i shimmed it out enought it would be fine, but then i dont know if the starter gear will contact the ring gear correctly.
anybody have a stock starter sitting around then can make some measurements for me so i can compare? thanks