How to go about removing my A/C

[DmnStr8]

Hey guys. Just bought a FRPP A/C delete because my A/C hasn't worked since I bought the car and I really don't think I will mind it gone (I rarely use the A/C in my other cars and perfer to drive with the windows down anyway). I figured it would be nice to shed some pounds in the front of the car and gain some work space under the hood.

Anyway. I was wondering if anyone knew of any full write ups or could describe the best way to go about removing all of the A/C equipment out from under the hood. Any special tools I need? Where to start first? Tips and/or tricks. I figure the hardest thing to remove will be the condensor.

Anyway, thanks in advance for any help.

 

[CRASH7772]

The only tool needed is a AC line removal tool (cheap) or hack the lines. Other than that it's just unbolt, remove, bolt in the AC delete block to the head and bolt in the PS pump. Really not that hard and you don't need a write up.

Take out the compressor, line going form compressor to black can near pass fire wall. Remove lines right below black can, remove condensor from in front of raditor, remove PS pump, remove old AC/PS bracket. Bolt in AC delete bracket, bolt in PS pump in new location. The only other thing is the unit inside the car which you have to remove half your dash to get out so I would just leave that.
I think that pretty much covers it.

 

[vristang]

I think the belt length changes, but I did mine a long time ago so I don't remember.

 

[DmnStr8]

Thanks! Yeah it look easy just making sure it wasn't deceptively easy. Now to get at the condensor I probably need to move the radiator, yes?

 

[DmnStr8]

yeah I should mention I bypassed my smog pump when it seized last summer so I will be running a short belt. I heard 70.5" is a good place to start. Sound good?

 

[FrumRoll]

You don't have to remove the radiator, you can just take off the fan set it inside the shroud then remove the upper radiator mounts and lean it forwards. 70.5 will probably be too short, I run a 71 with UD crank/water pump and OD alternator.

 

[DmnStr8]

Yeah I figured the belt would be "buy 3-4 sizes and see which fits best, return the rest"

Anyway, should I cap the lines running into the firewall? If so what do you recommend I cap them with? My fiance's father is a machinist so getting plugs hopefully won't be a problem. Sorry I just don't have access to the car today to go answer my own q's?

 

[FrumRoll]

It might look cleaner if you do, however I didn't bother. I don't really care if my non-working A/C system gets fouled up with exhaust from my leaking MAC headers.

 

[bynummustang]

I've know people to use golf tees. You can use almost anything to cap the lines.

 

[vristang]

Anyway, should I cap the lines running into the firewall? If so what do you recommend I cap them with? My fiance's father is a machinist so getting plugs hopefully won't be a problem. Sorry I just don't have access to the car today to go answer my own q's?

Definately!
There is no reason to just let these line slowly deteriorate under your dash.
I used some very large Vac caps from Schmucks.
I will be removing all of the A/C stuff from under the dash, but I am waiting for my heater core to fail first.

jason

 

[poneypower89]

Yeah I figured the belt would be "buy 3-4 sizes and see which fits best, return the rest"

Or, take a piece of string and run it how you would run the belt.. then measure the length u need...

 

[Jaswir]

heres some pics of mine

 

[DmnStr8]

Or, take a piece of string and run it how you would run the belt.. then measure the length u need...

I did that last time and found that with belt stretch and other factors that I still needed to play with the length after it had been measured. I.E Buy one size up and one size down and see which fits best.

Thats the first time I have ever been told thats bad advice...but maybe some enjoy driving back to the parts store more than others.

Anyway thanks guys. This will be my next minor project.

 

[squeeeg]

Don'y bother with the 4 or 5 belt swaps. I have the same FMS kit and no AC. You were right when you said it was going to be 70.5. When I did mine I was actually in the autozone parking lot swaping belts until I found the one that fit. The 70.5 is really tight when you first put it on. It too some prying with a screwdriver but it stretched to be just perfect after an hour or so.

 

[Vinnietbird]

Hey Squeeeg,is that bypassing the smog pump?i have the A/C delete kit also,and want to bypass my smog pump without buying a smog pump delete kit.

 

[squeeeg]

yep that is bypassed smog and the FMS AC delete. I should mention that I have stock pulleys. I don't know it that makes a big difference

 

[Vinnietbird]

Same setup as me.Thanks.