I bought a 2000 Gt a few months ago and I had a few questions about the mod motor since this is my first non fox bodied stang, and I checked in the newbie section for questions and did not see anything. I am going to change the plugs and saw that that the injector/rails are bolted on top of the plug wires. When you unbolt the rails, I am guessing that you pop out the injectors from the bottom? Common sense told me if you do it from the top, fuel will leak out. (I just wanted to check cause I don't want to frack anything up). Also I am planning on putting a ATI procharger in a few months, so would a plenum even be worth buying? The only mods I have done so far is a Steeda Ti-Ax shifter, SLP X-Pipe, and LM2 exhaust. Next is suspension, and 3.73's. If you don't feel like answering these newbie questions can you please point me in the right direction, or any info would be great. Thanks in advance
Yep Another Newbie With Dumb ?'s
- Thread starter budguy211
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
You don't remove the fuel rails to change plugs.
Here's a good site with tons of how to articles for you.
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1000.htm
Specifically, here's the spark plug how-to. http://www.bullittarchive.com/1017.htm
Now, as far as your procharger plans, yes I would say a plenum would be a good buy, but I'd definately get gears first.
Here's a good site with tons of how to articles for you.
http://www.bullittarchive.com/1000.htm
Specifically, here's the spark plug how-to. http://www.bullittarchive.com/1017.htm
Now, as far as your procharger plans, yes I would say a plenum would be a good buy, but I'd definately get gears first.
A few tips I would offer you on spark plug change:
-platinum lasts up to 100k and is the stock plug AGSF-32PM
-copper is hotter but only lasts 20-40k or so AGSF-32C
-you must blow the debris out of the plug wells before removing plugs
-completely remove the rubber boots from the COPs and clean and condition them with 303 Aerospace Protectant
-use silicone dielectric grease on all electrical mating surfaces
-torque plugs to spec and check them a few weeks later for proper torque
-some people use one step colder plugs in the rearmost two cylinders due to a design flaw that causes reduced coolant flow to those cylinders
-platinum lasts up to 100k and is the stock plug AGSF-32PM
-copper is hotter but only lasts 20-40k or so AGSF-32C
-you must blow the debris out of the plug wells before removing plugs
-completely remove the rubber boots from the COPs and clean and condition them with 303 Aerospace Protectant
-use silicone dielectric grease on all electrical mating surfaces
-torque plugs to spec and check them a few weeks later for proper torque
-some people use one step colder plugs in the rearmost two cylinders due to a design flaw that causes reduced coolant flow to those cylinders
Just to piggy back on what Kilgore said, although some people don't, I always use anti-seize compound on the last few threads of the plug (furthest away from the electrode so as not to get any on the electrode itself,) and I always use the hose trick to get the plug started.
How many miles do you have on the engine.
With all the problems the 4.6L has with shooting plugs out of the heads i wouldn't swap plugs unless you really needed to. The aluminum in the head strips rather easily.
Wait til you do the blower before doing plugs because you'll most likely need to change them again to decrease the gap and go a heat range cooler
PS. A 2000GT is still technically a Fox body. Look around under the car and in the engine bay and you'll see very familiar pinchwelds and chassis mounting points. The windshield washer resevior is located in one of the cutouts originally used for 79-85 Carbed stangs.
With all the problems the 4.6L has with shooting plugs out of the heads i wouldn't swap plugs unless you really needed to. The aluminum in the head strips rather easily.
Wait til you do the blower before doing plugs because you'll most likely need to change them again to decrease the gap and go a heat range cooler
PS. A 2000GT is still technically a Fox body. Look around under the car and in the engine bay and you'll see very familiar pinchwelds and chassis mounting points. The windshield washer resevior is located in one of the cutouts originally used for 79-85 Carbed stangs.
Similar threads
