Q's about a 90 vert

[Clienterror]

I have the opportunity to buy a 90 GT vert. I know they are heavy and its a GT so it makes it even worse. It also an auto. Anyways its 100% stock but I figure I can supe it up some but I'm not totally familier with verts or autos. Got a few questions.

1. How much torque can an AOD hold, how hard is a shift kit to install, how much does it help performance?

2. What does a vert weigh?

3. Whats a stock vert run in the 1/4 with an AOD?

4. My goal is a mid/low 13 sec vert. I was thinking when I got it i'd drop in 4.10's, O/R H pipe, cat back. MAYBE a supercharger, not sure if 9 PSI is to high for 19# injectors, Im thinking yes and I'd need a new fuel pump also. Do you think those mods with 9lb boost is a 13 sec car?

Thanks!

 

[bryce93lx]

aod's have a hell of a time with stock power, they tend to bust the input staft with too much power, and the od bands are very fragile, 9psi is way too much for the stock injectors, most head can intake guys run atleast 24's, and i would think you would need atleast 30's call the sc company they should be able to help, ahh 4.10 may be a little high crusin the streets, i would think they run in the 15's stock (just a guess), i would worry about suspension and chassis first, the verts are about as strong as a art gum eraser, sub frames are a must on all stangs, verts more importantly, you can also get k-member braces, and strut tower braces, maximum motorsports is a good place to start. make the car work right, make it fun and safe then worry about #'s

 

[txstang84]

AODs do suck...get it rebuilt and upgraded...PA performance makes a ton of good stuff for them...input shafts included

A GT vert will probably tips the scales at 3700+lbs with a full tank, all interior and a driver...don't flame me for that guess guys, it's just that-an estimate

a bone stock vert with good traction CAN get into the 14's but you have to know how to launch it-and what state all the parts are in-is it in good shape?

4.10's are a common swap for AOD guys, even though bryce is right, it will make for high rpm cruising. 19lb'ers can be used for low boost on a stock engine-with an FMU, but they'll be living on borrowed time...if you want to run without the FMU go with 30's.

Honestly though, stiffen the chassis and upgrade your suspension first, then work on the engine-unless the drivetrain needs more attention. a good set of subframes, strut tower brace, some control arms, and some good rubber will do wonders for your traction.

Then put it on a diet-there are a few ways to drop weight, talk to some of the other vert guys and see what they have to say.

You should be able to have a mid-13 sec car with chassis mods, tranny upgrades and a blower-if not quicker. There's bound to be a ton of people on here that are running N/A mid to low 13 sec verts with modest modifications.

 

[RYC CUKR]

Check out my sig and you can see what an AOD vert can do.

The AOD in stock form is adequate at best. Very soft shifts and such but it was intended to be a nice driving trans not a drag racing trans. That said it can be modded and be a fun car to drive.

The shift kits are pretty easy to put in. Just pull the pan, drain it and pull the VB off, make all of the changes and such that the kit requires and reassemble. I have a transgo in mine but I have also heard good things about the shift kit from www.becontrols.com. If you can swing it the best way to go is a Lentch valve body with electronic OD control. Very nice piece.

The OD bands cannot stand up to WOT in the stock trim. Trust me I know since I don't have OD anymore. When you do the shift kit I would recommend also adding at least an A overdrive servo, A+ would be best.

Next thing to look to on the AOD is the stock torque converter. Alot of guys are pretty hot on www.edgeracingconverters.com right now so I would give them a call and see what you need.

Structural reinforcement is a must. I have a set of MM full length SFCs, K member brace and strut tower brace. Pretty soon the car will be getting a 6 point roll bar and that should stiffen it up even more. Remember that to be "legal" at the dragstrip you need a 6 point bar if you go 13.49 or faster in the 1/4.

Do a search on the screen name rsw007. He has one fast AOD car. Granted not a vert but he can probably give you some tips on getting the most out of your AOD.

 

[Clienterror]

Alright thanks, BTW it is in MINT condition, 40,000 (ish) actual miles. It looks like it could be on the showroom floor in 1990 and you would think it has 10 miles on the clock and getting it at a super deal. Its one of those things "The old lady buys the mustang/TA/Corvette after her husband dies and drives it only to church and the supermarket."
Ok maybe Ill just go shift kit, 4.10s, suspention/stiffness for now. Not looking to make it crazy fast in a week, just figuring for now the 4.10/shift kit will make it like 10x better/more fun.
Any more suggestions feel free. When do I need to mess with the torque converter as well, if I change it out on a near stock stang I'm guessing I wont get much.

 

[txstang84]

you could probably use a "saturday night special" style converter...about 22-2400 without any real issues...and it would increase the get up and go factor

 

[srothfuss]

If you do pick up the car, here is a beginners list of mods to help you get the most out of your car for the longest period of time.

First mods should be as follows (my take):

In order of Priority
1) Subframe connectors (SFC's) full length ones are prefered for a stiff chasis
2) Gears: 3.73:1 or 4.10:1 seem to be the popular choices
3) For AOD people: Get a higher stall converter and a shift kit! (don't forget the Tranny cooler)
4) Full Exhuast (headers, hi-flo cats, catback w/ mufflers)
5) Buy a K&N panel filter (no CAI kit required) and put it in the stock box
6) Bumped timing to 12 - 14 degrees (free mod) 10 Degrees is stock.
7) Larger MAF, TB (MAF cars from 1988 california only, 1989-1993)
8) Better Intake Manifold or a Ported one
9) 3G alternator upgrade / electric fan
10) Fix the stock brakes.

Optional MODs:
11) Strut tower brace (necessary on Convertibles IMO)
12) Underdrive pullies (they can't be used on S/C motors and cause charging problems)
13) Weight reduction out of the nose of the car
14) Shocks/Struts and lowering springs
15) C/C plates if you lower the car
16) Short throw shifter (if you have a manual transmission)
17) Cleaning or replacing all of the sensors (TPS, IAC, etc. - not a mod but it helps)

After those basic mods it will be pretty much up to you to pick a final direction for your car. There are plenty of Super Chargers or H/C/I [Heads, Cam and Intake] packages to choose from to really wake up the car.

Also, don't forget about the basic tune up
1) Changing all of the fluids (oil, coolant, trans, rear end, brake and some of the power steering)
2) Plugs: (non-platnum type) Autolite or Motorcraft are prefered
3) Oil filter: Motorcraft or equivalent (not FRAM)
4) Air filter: see first mods item #4
5) Plug wires: Ford Motorsport (FRPP) 9mm units are great
6) Cap / Rotor
7) Oxygen sensors

 

[HISSIN50]

I am confused. It sounds like you're the type of guy lookin for a lightweight notch to mod into a decent street machine/occasional track car. Yet this car you're lookin at is the relative antithesis of that.
This one would be a great one to keep sorta stockish (you'll also obviously have to work harder to make it as fast and stable as a notch). It sounds like a wonderful weekend car though.

I guess I'm askin if a cherry vert like this is the best car for your goals (take no offense - that is an honest question).

 

[Clienterror]

I am confused. It sounds like you're the type of guy lookin for a lightweight notch to mod into a decent street machine/occasional track car. Yet this car you're lookin at is the relative antithesis of that.
This one would be a great one to keep sorta stockish (you'll also obviously have to work harder to make it as fast and stable as a notch). It sounds like a wonderful weekend car though.

I guess I'm askin if a cherry vert like this is the best car for your goals (take no offense - that is an honest question).

Its cool bro, not gonna take offense to that

Well to be honest I'm looking for something thats really fun to drive and I do love 5/6 speeds but I know AOD/C4/C6's can kick ass once their built up some. One of the problems is looking for a new (used) stang is about 85% of the stangs ive gone to look at to consider buying people ran them into the ground but some how feel they are worth 5k bucks when the wipers dont work, leaks coolant from the water pump, 1/4 pannels are rusted out and need new metal welded in....list of stuff goes on and on (thats just on 1 car BTW) and I finally found one in excellent condition that is actually worth what their asking.

I really just want enough HP/TQ to make it feel more like a "Muscle" car. I figured mid 13's was a good round about time for that. Enough to fend off 99.9% of the imports, and some of the other chevys. So really Im just getting ideas on how to make an auto perform like an auto really should. I dont really plan on making it a track monster or anything, but I do want it to have a good amount of "Get up and go". So yes your right.

You pretty much have me nailed of the daily driver/occasional track car. Im not stuck on how it looks. It just happend this one is almost mint at a non mint price ya get me? I dont mind surface rust, few dents...I even looked at one in black primer. Its just theres so many people that just dont respect their cars and beat the h e l l outa them and try to sell them at crazy prices. So if I need to work with a vert which would be an awsome fun car even though its a tank I can work with that.

Help any

 

[Clienterror]

Would a higher stall converter help any?

 

[RYC CUKR]

A higher stall will help alot. Call around and talk to some of the converter manufacturers and let them know what your goals are and they can help you pick the right converter for you.

www.edgeracingconverters.com
www.lentechautomatics.com
www.converter.com

 

[gruvee87vertgt]

I would recommend a 1993 instead.

also, check the undercarriage for rust.

 

[webshot]

I would get the vert. I have a 92 vert (AOD) with blacn on black leather int. In immacualnt condition. I have done some upgrades like stall, shift kit....(saving for the lentech setup). And it is a very fun car to drive. I also have a 87 vert that is a stick. And the ride is comparable to a stick IMO once you do the mods advised by the folks here.

 

[rsw007]

3000 stall will really wake up a aod car. along with 3.73-4.10 ggears and shift kit.

 

[billpo]

I think the torque converter is the last thing it you should do.
The stall has to match your mods.