95 Mustang Stalls/Dies, already replaced TFI & Dizzy

[acstctws]

My 95 Mustang GT with 95000 miles sometimes dies while I'm driving. I already had the TFI and distributor replaced. The code from the computer said PIP failure, which I read means that the stator is bad, so the entire distributor was replaced rather than just the stator (replaced with a remanufactured Ford distributor).

There are no mods done to my car other than Flowmaster 40 series exaust and a K&N filter. It doesn't always die, but it usually does after I've been driving for a while (20-30 mins or so), and has so far always started back up after it cools down for 30-40 mins. After it dies, it still cranks (slower than normal) but won't spark. I'm not sure what else to do! I've researched on this and other forums and have a list of possible things that people have said could be bad:

-Fuel pump/Filter
-Ignition Switch
-Battery Connections (Bad or loose ground)
-EEC Power Relay (not sure what that is)
-MAF Sensor (may need to be cleaned)
-CCRM or SCT chip????? not sure what those are
-Relay under the hood, in black box by battery
-TB/IAC cleaning

Any input on any of those things, or any other, than may be causing my problem would be very much appreciated!! Thanks!

 

[illwood]

-Fuel pump/Filter
If the fuel pump is on its way out, it is a PITA to change because you have to drop the tank (just finished one on a 3/4 ton Chevy truck today). If the fuel filter is clogged, you can replace it pretty easily if you jack up the car and use a screwdriver or needlenose pliers to get the clips off. You need to relieve the fuel pressure before doing this (I just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the car for a bit).

-Ignition Switch
Haven't had one go bad on me, I believe it is like the trucks, where the switch is actually under the dash and the key just runs linkages to it.

-Battery Connections (Bad or loose ground)
Bad grounds can cause a world of headaches especially on EFI motors. You may want to make sure that your ground wire (- terminal) is secure on all of it's attachment points and not corroded.

-EEC Power Relay
This is a relay that sends power to the vehicles computer (EEC) when your key is in the "ON" and "RUN" position. I had a mysterious battery drain in an old Bronco of mine that ended up just being this relay being stuck in the "ON" position.

-MAF Sensor
I don't know about this causing stalling. Dirty ones are usually to blame for causing pinging from miscalculated spark advance. This is easy to clean especially if you have a CAI. Take the MAF sensor out of your car. Hose it with a no-residue contact cleaner (I use one by CRC) and let dry, then re-assemble.

-CCRM or SCT chip
I think they mean an aftermarked tuning chip on your computer being loose. Dunno tho.

-Relay under the hood
Pretty much the same idea as the EEC relay. Could also be a fuel pump relay.

-TB/IAC cleaning
You never really gave an exact description of when it stalled. If it stalls at idle with your foot off the gas, a dirty IAC would be very suspicious. The IAC is effectively an electrically operated air valve that your car's computer uses to control engine idle speed. A dirty or malfunctioning one will never allow the car to idle properly.

 

[95Cobra302]

I would rule out the TB and IAC, unless you have an erractic idle. First thing I would do is check Fuel Pressure and change fuel filter. Fuel problems usually occur after the car is warmed up, but the car will start again once it's cooled down.

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

try unplugging sensors....i mean it may sound crazy, but if a sensor is sending a wacked out signal, when you pull it it will go into default mode. This is actually how i found out my MAF was bad after replacing my tfi, dizzy, and about everything else i could think of.

 

[acstctws]

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions. I don't know all that much about cars, and my mechanic said that if the new TFI and distributor didn't fix it, he didn't know what it would be, but possibly something wrong with the computer.

As far as when exactly it happens, it's stalled out on the interstate twice at about 65 MPH before, but it just stalled and then came back. It's completely died about 4 or 5 times, usually when I'm decellerating, but going anywhere from 10 to about 35 MPH. Today when it died, I was at a red light, and didn't realize it was dead until I started to go...so I had to coast down a hill into a gas station, and it started back up after about 25 mins. and I drove it about 3 miles to my house with no problem.

 

[mo_dingo]

Thanks a lot for all the suggestions. I don't know all that much about cars, and my mechanic said that if the new TFI and distributor didn't fix it, he didn't know what it would be, but possibly something wrong with the computer.

As far as when exactly it happens, it's stalled out on the interstate twice at about 65 MPH before, but it just stalled and then came back. It's completely died about 4 or 5 times, usually when I'm decellerating, but going anywhere from 10 to about 35 MPH. Today when it died, I was at a red light, and didn't realize it was dead until I started to go...so I had to coast down a hill into a gas station, and it started back up after about 25 mins. and I drove it about 3 miles to my house with no problem.

Start with the basics. Think of it like a carbed motor. Check the plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel pressure/vacuum. Then do a cylinder balance test. Then start with the sensors. After the car has been running for a few minutes, it switches to the O2 sensors as the primary a/f gauge. So if the O2's are ok, then it's down to the guts of the motor.

One thing, did you reset the computer after you swapped the dizzy? If you did, did you run the codes again after 20 miles or so? You may not have fixed the problem.
Scott